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The Previous Idiot of my car had a toggle switch wired under the dash, interrupting the 12v power to the HEI coil. It worked fine, but the wiring was done VERY badly, so I took it out when I was doing some repairs.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Power kill switches are completely ineffective. When I used to repossess cars, we had aligator-clip wire harnesses with us to jump power to the starter and to the ignition - we never used the ignition switch to start the old cars because people always had kill switches installed when they knew the car was going to get repossessed. I can start a car with a power kill switch in less than 30 seconds. More effective is a grounding circuit so that any power applied becomes ineffective. This takes longer to identify and to disable.
I just put in a crane electronic conversion in my 68. The pick up has a 12 volt switched source that uses very little current, so I ran that thru a toggle switch that I have hidden. I have not finished up with my projects on it enough to drive, but it works well. I also used a toggle that let me hook up a red LED to light up when the ignition is on with the switch in the kill position (so I can tell if its on or off without looking at the switch position)
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
After having a couple of cars stolen in the past, I resolved to CYA on my later ones.
Both of my cars have Viper alarms on them with starter kill. Sure you can ignore the sound of the alarm, pop the hood and snip it's wires. But if you reach in even with the key, and try to start it, it won't crank over until you reset the alarm.
Power kill switches are completely ineffective...... More effective is a grounding circuit so that any power applied becomes ineffective. This takes longer to identify and to disable.
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Ground switch to the - post of the coil. More difficult to find, hard to bypass like the + post to coil, cant push start it like a starter cutout.
Gary
Havinf DPFI makes the whole thing easier, I use a garage door opener with my own code and have to hit a certain button on the opener to start my vette.....
the olde tyme GTO had a triple interlocking relay system with a series of TWO pushbuttons that would ONLY work in proper sequence, and ONLY IF two other conditions existed....
just jumpering crap would yeild a fire....
by time the theives EVER figgered out that system, hell the National Guard would be summoned.....
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by Garys 68
Ground switch to the - post of the coil. More difficult to find, hard to bypass like the + post to coil, cant push start it like a starter cutout.
Gary
That's exactly what I'm talking about. To hide it better (we would always check the "-" side of the coil to see if there were 2 wires on it and simply "snip" any wire that did not go to the distributor), you can run a parallel wire from the distributor to a hidden grounding switch. Thus, the coil grounding wire is actually coming out of the distributor but never atached to the coil. This wire, running down the side of the distributor and into the wre harness, is very difficult to see, and cannot be spotted unless you really know what you're looking for. The car will never fire and run unless the wire is detected and disabled, no matter how much power is applied to the ignition or the starter.
Gary,
I would like to add a kill switch to my 73 because it has a very loose/sloppy fitting ignition key fit.
From reading your post I can run a wire from the negative ( - ) coil post to a toggle switch. Then the other side of the toggle switch goes to ground. When the toggle is open, there is no continuity from the negative to ground. When closed the ground circuit is completed and prevents the car from starting.
Is there a toggle switch rating that I should consider?
Good question about the toggle switch rating.. Also wonder if anyone has incorporated something like this into their cigarette lighter or other similar tricky location. An underdash switch, regardless of the system is useless IMO.
what if you have a key switch shutoff in the actual battery location on the inside of the car...... if you have locking compartments..... there are relays that u can hook up to your high beams and cigarette lighter to use as a kill switch....... a tricky would be to possibly hide a switch in the gas cap area and one inside........both have to be switched to work..
All good ideas.
I just moved to where I can leave the keys in the car and not worry.
However, after all the work on my vette, I am going to LoJack it.
Like Lars said - if someone wants to take it - they will.
The key is catching them before it's 'too late'.
How far would someone get if you put a kill on the fuel pump as well? I always thought of using this method to stop them. I cant imagine them getting out of the parking spot i would be in or out of my garage before it sputters out. Or if they'd even be able to start it, considering how thirsty my vette is for gas.