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pull plates vs. aluminum intake - recommended?

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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 12:07 PM
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Default pull plates vs. aluminum intake - recommended?

What is the recommended method of lift attachment for a fully assembled long block with intake attached to a cherry picker? Is there a risk of stripping the bolts out of an aluminum intake with the weight of a SB using a puller plate?
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 12:11 PM
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I wondered that same thing. Those are AWFULLY small studs to yank a heavy engine up on. I just yanked a complete big block engine out of my Vette, but I used Grade 8, 3/8 inch bolts on diagonal positions on the manifold-to head locations. They lifted it out no sweat.

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Last edited by DJ Dep; Apr 5, 2005 at 01:21 PM.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 12:32 PM
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People do it all the time, but I prefer a lift bar so you can tilt it easier. I would be scared of that plate, I'd have a rotten intake and the engine would fall and smush my car.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 12:38 PM
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i didn't trust them either. I used bolts in the accserory holes on my heads
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 12:40 PM
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I would be more likely to use a plate with a cast iron intake. I don't like to take chances. A long block has got to be in the 500lb range. That would put an average of 125lb on the aluminum threads.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 12:43 PM
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I've used this plate many times with no issues,but do recommend grade 8 bolts for insurance.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 01:07 PM
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What's the point of using a grade 8 bolt in cast aluminum?
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by CGGorman
What's the point of using a grade 8 bolt in cast aluminum?
My manifold was cast iron
But I see your point.

Dep
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 01:49 PM
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The bolts are only 5/16" or so I think,just a precaution. I'm sure the cast aluminum would pull a thread first.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by CGGorman
What's the point of using a grade 8 bolt in cast aluminum?
Well, that way if the intake broke and the engine smashed to the ground, at least the bolts would be reusable...
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 02:13 PM
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Here's another angle. What if you have aluminum heads? Still use bolts in the accessory holes? Which holes? Any pictures?
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 03:02 PM
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I know that guys use those plates all the time.... but I will never use one. I guess if you calculate the physics of it, with perfect threads (on a 30 year old aluminum manifold ? pft!) maybe it's safe. Just can't bring myself to do it. I use a sling (and leveler) & bolt it to the heads or the block. RE: The aluminum heads... the thread size is usually 3/8-16 or 7/16-14. That's a big step up in size. Also... a "straight pull" on a thread (as in the case of a carb flange) is a lot different than a "shear force" (sideways). When you bolt to the heads, you are adding a shear factor and reducing the straight pull force. That makes a big difference.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 05:16 PM
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From an engineer's perspective, the plate is stronger. Four 5/16 bolts in tension are stronger than two 3/8 bolts in shear. Shear strength is half of tensile strength for steel. As far as aluminum, if the bolts are threaded in two and a half times the bolt diameter, the aluminum is as strong as the bolt. One and one-half times for cast iron. So don't worry about the plates. Joe
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by tersian
Here's another angle. What if you have aluminum heads? Still use bolts in the accessory holes? Which holes? Any pictures?
I've never used a lift plate and I never remove the hood.

I just use a chain from opposite corners on the intake side of the heads. I've had aluminum heads for years and I have to R&R the motor more than I'd like to.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by joe73vette
From an engineer's perspective, the plate is stronger. Four 5/16 bolts in tension are stronger than two 3/8 bolts in shear. Shear strength is half of tensile strength for steel. As far as aluminum, if the bolts are threaded in two and a half times the bolt diameter, the aluminum is as strong as the bolt. One and one-half times for cast iron. So don't worry about the plates. Joe
Cool... great post.

What if the aluminum threads are 30 years old and have been abused by Bubba? e.g.- wobbily studs even when screwed all the way in?
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 05:56 PM
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I use the lifting hooks that were installed on my 82 engine, if you can, get a set. They bolt to the manifold over the 2 manifold to head bolts that go in the waterpassage on the front & back, they are really sturdy steel pieces and easier to use that bolting down a chain.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 06:47 PM
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I made and used both a plate and a tilter, I like the tilter a little better for control but wouldn't hesitate to use either one.

Steve
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To pull plates vs. aluminum intake - recommended?

Old Apr 5, 2005 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by joe73vette
From an engineer's perspective, the plate is stronger. Four 5/16 bolts in tension are stronger than two 3/8 bolts in shear. Shear strength is half of tensile strength for steel. As far as aluminum, if the bolts are threaded in two and a half times the bolt diameter, the aluminum is as strong as the bolt. One and one-half times for cast iron. So don't worry about the plates. Joe
Yeah but four 3/8 in. bolts ( 2 in front and 2 in back ) are the strongest, that's the way I do it, you spend enough money on a motor and a paint job you ain't taking any chances

Last edited by MotorHead; Apr 5, 2005 at 07:06 PM.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom454
Cool... great post.

What if the aluminum threads are 30 years old and have been abused by Bubba? e.g.- wobbily studs even when screwed all the way in?
Use the heads! LOL Joe
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by joe73vette
From an engineer's perspective, the plate is stronger. Four 5/16 bolts in tension are stronger than two 3/8 bolts in shear. Shear strength is half of tensile strength for steel. As far as aluminum, if the bolts are threaded in two and a half times the bolt diameter, the aluminum is as strong as the bolt. One and one-half times for cast iron. So don't worry about the plates. Joe
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