I swear this thing should be called the Valdez.
Call it and overly eager emphasis on going faster at the expense of maintenance, but I'm fed up with my car "marking" its territory!

We'll start at the back and move up from there.
The differential leaks out the front, I'm assuming the front seal has gone bad, is this a task you can do at home, or would I be better off if I pulled the whole thing out and took it to a shop. I don't see how you can replace it with it in the car as it is directly above the crossmember.

Moving right a long we have the tranny. It is leaking fluid out the speedometer cable. I was told there is an o-ring that could be missing. Is it in the cable or do I need to take the cover plate off the transmission to replace it.

And at last the unfixable leak: the motor. I can thank AFR for designing a head that has the majority of the oil return path along the valve cover gasket in addition to the poor quality (yet expensive) Summit brand fabricated valve covers. For >$200 you'd expect them to not be so flimsy and at least have a FLAT surface. I have tried every gasket out there without luck, rubber with metal, cork, cork with metal, and every adhesive too: 3M weather strip adhesive, Gaska-cinch, ultra-black, you name it.

This is embarrassing to admit, but I'm a leaker...

Ideas?


Thanks in advance!

Travis

 

Maybe I can help with some of this?

Differential: Might be time to send that to a pro. Because of the crush sleeve in the forward end of the case an improper set can give further problems.

The sppedometer cable: That should be easy. There's a seal in the cable adapter that has gone bad. It's also possible the cable adapter and speedo drive gear are worn past the point of a seal replacement fix, you should be able to tell once you have it out (not a big job).
Your local Chevy dealer should be able to come up with the parts you need

The valve covers: Overtightening the bolts will cause a depression in the cover flanges, so instead of having a flat surface you now have a wavey one. Might be the problem. Also make sure you are using the special t-shaped thingys that distribute the bolt torque over a wider area. I've had good luck with the black silicone you described, the surfaces have to be very clean and free from any oil residue. Also a good idea to let it cure at least overnight.

 

Big Fish: Thanks, I will call around and see how much it would be to replace the seal this week. I will probably be cussing up a storm removing the thing though.

As far as the speedometer cable goes, I need to pull the cable off, and then take the plate off the and pull the assembly out, correct? Will I lose a lot of fluid when I pull this out?

These are the fabricated type aluminum valve covers that have a bolt that goes all the way through from the top on the outter perimeter. You can see a depression where they welded the ends together and sanded it flat, but did not sand enough off to get rid of the depression. I took them to a shop to have them sanded flat but he said they were to thin to sand down anymore.

Thanks again,

 

This might or might not help. Try some Earls valve cover seals. The Earl's header seals sealed my unsealable header leaks (at the head and collector) just like that.

Brett

 

If you jack up only the rear to work on it, the fluid should travel forward enough to avoid leakage

 

Brett: $52 for valve cover gaskets huh... I guess it beats leaks, maybe I'll give those a try.

Big Fish: Thanks, I'll do that.

 

THats weird about your AFRs, i'm running 195s, and just stick a rubber Fel Pro gasket, cheapo Aluminum tall valve covers, and valve covers studs, and they never leak. I've even taken them off several times and put them back on, still no leaks. Maybe AFR improved their oil return in past year or so?