What a loaded problem you have there....

I would definitely take the frame to a state of the art laser type system and verify the frame itself first. Then look at the rest of the components. Frame alignment is different from a wheel alignment. Most wheel alignment machines only verify wheel technical dimensions. And if they are off and out of adjustment limits, the first thing that they figure is that the frame is bent. But like others have said, it might be something else like improperly installed shims or bent arms. Just running out and buying another frame may or may not solve the problem. That is a big chance to take. I would verify my frame condition first.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I didn't get out to the garage tonight because of some other commitments.

As for the shims, there are 3 shims in the rear upper mount and none in the front. That will pull the wheel rearward, but the problem is that the wheel still has negative caster. Shimming the top arm is not the solution because it will pull the wheel further back. The tire will hit the fender, the wheelbase will become shorter, and the camber will go more negative.

I didn't realize that the lower arms were different right to left. I will be taking more measurements of both sides to see what is wrong. I will of course let everyone know. When it's time to have it pulled, if that is the case, I will take it somewhere that has the proper equipment. For diagnosing, I believe my plumb bob and tape measure method will work pretty well.

It's amazing to hear all the stories about bent frames and arms. I would love to start with a new frame, but I just can't start a body off right now. I already have the whole front end off the Camaro. One car in pieces is enough for now.

 

Well, I finally made some cross car measurements, and it looks like the right side is off by about 3/4" when I measure from one of the gage holes on the left to the front of the right frame rail. I pulled off the grille, the bumper, and right bumper support bracket. It definitely looks like the right bumper support was not is the correct position.

I am going to pull the radiator and the radiator support. I believe that will give the frame shop enough room to grab the frame rail and pull. What else do you think I should do? Should I loosen the trans mount? I was thinking that the engine will be pulled a little when the frame is moved. I have rubber engine mounts, so I think they should be able to move a little.

Thanks
Ken

 

If possible, loosen all the body mount bolts, take the bolt out of the rag joint,disconnect the seat belt hook up to the frame, loosen the tranny mount and engine mount bolts, same with the mufflers. In short, anything bolted to the frame, loosen, same with the sway bars, bumper brackets, rad core support.

You may have to remove the front bumper brace, or at least remove the bolts from the damaged side.

 

I found a shop that is willing to look at the car and give me an estimate. It turns out a guy I work with knows someone at the local GM dealer. I called them, and they agreed to work with me. The bumper and all associated hardware is off, and the radiator comes out tonight. I am going to trailer the car down to the shop on Thursday. Hopefully, they will be able to get is done. I'll let you know.

Ken

 

I would also remove the front crossmember......

Wish you the best of luck on this....

 

Thanks GDaina. If I remove the front cross member, is there any more of a risk of hurting the front fiberglass? Like I said, I already have the bumper bracket off, and I can lift the front end maybe a half inch or so. I was planning on strapping the front end down for the trailer ride just to make sure it didn't get damaged by wind buffeting.


Ken

 

Here's what you should do....loosen the bolts that hold the rad support and the crossmember, transport the car, then if the guys at the shop want the support and crossmember removed, you can do that there....

You know the rad support is a critical piece that supports the surround ...if you remove those items prior to transport, you risk damage to the hood corners.

 

I just dropped the car off at the shop. They said they will take a look at it and give me a call with an estimate. I'm holding my breath.

 

Here is my .02 worth. I have an 87. When driving it it would track and stop straight. When turning a corner it felt like I was riding a horse that was dragging one leg. I found out that the right front wheel was knocked out of alignment to the rear. At the time I lived in Kansas City and after talking to some people in the local Corvette Club I was told where to take it. I grew up in the Detroit area (13 & Mound) there were several shops that specialized in Corvettes. I am sure if you looked in the phone book you could find a good frame shop. There used to be one on 11 mile in Madison Heights just off 696. Smaller body shops will sometimes send work like this out to specialist. I would also check with the Chevy dealiers that are volume sellers of Corvettes as their body shops are going to see more Vettes and have the people that are skilled in Vette repairs. I hope this give you some hope and some ideas.

 

This shop was recommended to me by a fellow Corvette owner, someone I also work with. His son-in-law is a technician at the shop. My buddy said he has seen the work this guys does, including on Vettes, and it is top notch.

I started this whole thing last year by calling the local Vette specialty shops. They quoted me $1500. I'm hoping that by removing all the parts I did, and not asking the dealer to be responsible for putting them back, the price won't be too high. I'm just nervous with my car sitting at a dealer while I wait for them to determine how much this is worth to me, not what is should cost.

Ken

 

This is the kind of stuff that drives me crazy. The shop has had the car 24 hours now. I called to see how it was coming. Turns out it's on the lift, but they don't have any specs for it. The GM manuals don't go back that far. The manager says he has a call into GM. So, I email him over the picture from the FAQ showing the dimensions. Drives me nuts that this is how far we have come in 24 hours, and they don't bother to call me.

Anyway, does anyone have better dimensions than the basic picture showing the frame?

Thanks
Ken

 

hang in there, and remember at some point this will be past history as you are cruising down the road....

 

Do you have the AIM? Also the Shop Manual? Pics and specs included in both

 

I have the AIM, but it's at home. The pic I sent is from the service manual. It had the dimensions they needed apparently, because they just called and left a message with the quote.

Labor for pulling the frame came to $450
With parts (I don't know yet, I need to call) the total came to $612.

I am going to call and try to get some more details.

Details:

Frame is kinked behind right wheel opening. They will have to make two pulls, one to lengthen the frame rail, and another on the crossmember to get it to the correct width. They will need to pull the right headlight to get at the frame rail. Due to some damage caused when the first shop tried to fix it (before me) they have to make some tie downs. The parts are clips and other small pieces that hold lines and hoses on.

What do you guys think?

 

on one of my other sports car i had frame work done and they charged an initial flat fee for setting it up of about $200 that was just for getting it in a position to jusdge what needed to be done.....then they wouldn't do anything because it was too far off from a previous poor repair....if you are assured that it will remedy the situation i say go for it....they have the knowledge, expertise and equipment that you need. good luck.

 

That will save a ton of work switching frames, not to mention the cost of a frame

 

I have decided to go ahead with the repair. However, I picked up the car because we are going on vacation and I didn't want the car sitting there for over a week. The good part is this gives me the chance to remove some parts they were going to take off and save me some money. I will take the car back after our vacation.

I'll let you know.
Ken

 

I dropped the car off this morning after removing the right headlight assembly last night. They were going to charge me about $140 to remove the light. By doing it myself, I have that much more money left to work on other projects. The shop said it should be done by Tuesday. That gives me the weekend to work on other items, like repairing some rotted areas of the core support.

 

That price doesn't sound too out of line. It IS a Corvette after all, and everyone knows that work on a Corvette costs about 2-3 times what the same work would cost on a regular Chevy.

This should save the cost and labor involved in a body off resto. You'd still have to deal with what to do with the frame even if you decided to take the body off.

Hopefully this will fix it!