The mini starter I bought only has 2 connections, 1 for the larger 12v cable, the other a spade terminal for the wire from the ignition swtich (purple) that means the smale wire that went up to the coil is left disconneted. Now when I called the place I got it from, they said thats ok, just leave the coil wire disconnected, and that none of the mini starters have the two posts to allow this wire to connect as most ignitions are electronic.
Anyway...the car wont start, I dont appear to be getting a spark and the voltage at the coil is on 6.8volts.......

Can I make this starter work ?I woudl really like to use this starter as I have just done a auto to manual conversion and my auto one wont work.

Any suggestions??Ideas??

thanx
Nick

 

Nick, I've heard theres a way to make them work..but not to clear on it. I had this same exact problem...if your running a coil with no ignition box..whether its electronic or points, you need the 3rd R wire. Some starter manufactuers sell the solenoid with the R terminal so you can hook up the coil wire. Otherwise, you'll never get full power to the coil to give it spark to start. I actually sold my mini starter, and bought a stock replacement for now.

 

Just spoke to Jegs tech support...they sell a "diode"kit to solve this problem. Basically it is a wire that connects to the + post on the solenoid and then you splice into the "R" wire of the original wiring, thus giving the coil 12v to help start......... and the diode stops any voltage flow back into the starter.

Nick

 

Well anyone that brags a TR4 i will do my best to help.
That 6.8v sounds low even with a ballest resistor - they can and do open up with age. Yes that yellow wire (yellow on my '74) to the coil is not used with the mini's for some reason. Instructions say just to cut and tape it back so it won't ground to anything - but would only have an effect if connected at other end (coil +).
It dosen't sound like ur using a CD/MSD ignition box so the extra volts on the coil for start-up would still help. U would need to run/install a relay with power side pos/+ connected to a wire spliced off the starter wire between the solenoid and mini starter motor (just add a wire to that copper lug sticking up from starter motor) and neg connected to ground. This will allow the solenoid full current to pull in the slug and throw out the bendix gear. Don't connect the relay to that purple starter wire as it will more than likely then bypass the starter soleniod. Connect NO contact of relay to a full 12v batt source - red wire junction on fender or from large starter/batt lug - and other side of NO contact connected to the coil +. Buy a multimeter ($15) at the hardware store and read the instructions (if u need to). Now u can verify continuity with resistance and voltage checks to ensure 12v at coil +/pos only when starter switch in start. Hey some budget racers relay this 12v to a switch on throttle for full 12v at WOT only - hotter sparks at WOT.
Yea that diode trick could work but again ur shorting/bypassing/reducing voltage to the soleniod if connected to purple wire - and it would burn-up the coil (just like runnig without the ballest resistor) if connected to the batt cable terminal.

BTW don't they call the TR4 a Bug-Eye Triumph? cardo0