Clutch Linkage question
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 945
Likes: 61
From: Palm Desert, CA
Clutch Linkage question
The question I have is on a part called "the clutch engine ball stud" which is connected to the Clutch Lever Cross Shaft. This is all part of the Clutch Linkage Mechanism if I have not lost you yet. When I was changing my oil today I noticed the Clutch Lever Shaft was very loose. Looking closer I noticed the Clutch Engine Ball Stud conneted to it was untreaded a great deal out of the engine. It was still connected but seemed loose. I notice their is a built in nut on the engine bolt that can be treaded back into the engine.
The question I have is does any one know if the engine bolt is suppose to be tighten all the way into the engine. It seems like it is but I am not sure - will this also change the setting of clutch. Please advice. Obviously it is veryloos right now and concerns me.
The question I have is does any one know if the engine bolt is suppose to be tighten all the way into the engine. It seems like it is but I am not sure - will this also change the setting of clutch. Please advice. Obviously it is veryloos right now and concerns me.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 0
From: Grants Pass Oregon
Ball Nut Threading
The bolt that threads into the engine block should be threaded all the way in, please don't drive the car with this bolt hanging out at a coupla threads, if the bolt were to come completely out your clutch would engage fully and solidly with no retrieval. The bolt will bottom out at the sholder of the flat collar, it is designed to to ride in a grease bath, inside a tube with a thick felt bushing against the sholder. The only function of this bushing is to hold the grease in the tube. The ball will ride the same at any distance, the mechanism is designed to operate at a standard and that standard width is with the bolt screwed in.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Originally Posted by codestar7
The bolt that threads into the engine block should be threaded all the way in, please don't drive the car with this bolt hanging out at a coupla threads, if the bolt were to come completely out your clutch would engage fully and solidly with no retrieval. The bolt will bottom out at the sholder of the flat collar, it is designed to to ride in a grease bath, inside a tube with a thick felt bushing against the sholder. The only function of this bushing is to hold the grease in the tube. The ball will ride the same at any distance, the mechanism is designed to operate at a standard and that standard width is with the bolt screwed in.
Get it tightened back up. If it comes off, you'll be locked in that gear...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,030
Likes: 17
From: White Pine / Dandridge TN
There are plastic bushings on both sides of the z-bar. The ball stud will rest against this plastic bushing inside of the z-bar. When I removed mine, these plastic bushings were worn badly. I would recommend pulling the z-bar and ball stud. Replace the plastic bushings which you can still purchase at a chevy dealer for a few bucks. While you have the z-bar out, clean and relube the internal with fresh grease.
It's also possible that someone installed the incorrect size ball stud. I believe there are two different sizes available. Check to make sure you have the correct size for your application. Also, the ball stud can wear. I replaced mine while at was doing everthing else. The dealer sells them for around $10.00.
My tranmission would grind when in reverse. I thought it was a transmission adjustment issue. I removed the z-bar and related clutch linkage to install headers. Once I reinstalled the z-bar with fresh bushings, the tranny no longer would grind into reverse. It was simply a misaligned z-bar/ball stud. You never know when one thing can impact another.
It's also possible that someone installed the incorrect size ball stud. I believe there are two different sizes available. Check to make sure you have the correct size for your application. Also, the ball stud can wear. I replaced mine while at was doing everthing else. The dealer sells them for around $10.00.
My tranmission would grind when in reverse. I thought it was a transmission adjustment issue. I removed the z-bar and related clutch linkage to install headers. Once I reinstalled the z-bar with fresh bushings, the tranny no longer would grind into reverse. It was simply a misaligned z-bar/ball stud. You never know when one thing can impact another.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 945
Likes: 61
From: Palm Desert, CA
follow up
Guys:
Thanks for all your feedback. And Yes my transmission was grinding when going into reverse - thought it was a transmission problem. I will tighten up withlock tight and inspect. I love corvette forum - you guys are so knowledable and save me a bundle of money.
Thanks for all your feedback. And Yes my transmission was grinding when going into reverse - thought it was a transmission problem. I will tighten up withlock tight and inspect. I love corvette forum - you guys are so knowledable and save me a bundle of money.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,030
Likes: 17
From: White Pine / Dandridge TN
I believe the part number for the plastic bushings is 3743349. The ball stud part number that I used for a 350 with 4 speed manual tranny is 3935289. These are GM part numbers.
