insulate a-c fan box??
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Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 84
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From: brownwood, tx
insulate a-c fan box??
I'm thinking about putting insulation on the outside of the fanbox or heater box , I'm not sure what the area is call -- under the hood, where the a-c, heater fan motor goes into the firewall. Is this worth the effort?? Has anyone done this?? Could you tell any difference?? What did you use?? I've read about Frost King -- would this hold up to the heat coming off exhaust manifold??
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by slim
I'm thinking about putting insulation on the outside of the fanbox or heater box , I'm not sure what the area is call -- under the hood, where the a-c, heater fan motor goes into the firewall. Is this worth the effort?? Has anyone done this?? Could you tell any difference?? What did you use?? I've read about Frost King -- would this hold up to the heat coming off exhaust manifold??
i did it this winter using "zero clearance" and its holding up fine...can't really tell if it made a difference but i would suspect it would.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 856
Likes: 2
From: Tyler Texas
I did it. Used the "zero clearance" product. I custom cut it to fit. Made a pattern first; it has an adhesive backing and is very durable. Installed it on the bottom of the housing and on the side adjacent to the exhaust manifold. I sprayed it satin black. It has held up very well and is not noticeable.
It HAS to help. The fiberglass housing would get so hot from engine heat I could not touch it. The zero clearance has to eliminate some of the engine radiant heat that soaks into the C3 interior; suspect it also helps the air cond. run cooler. Every little bit helps!
It HAS to help. The fiberglass housing would get so hot from engine heat I could not touch it. The zero clearance has to eliminate some of the engine radiant heat that soaks into the C3 interior; suspect it also helps the air cond. run cooler. Every little bit helps!
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,253
Likes: 1
From: East China MI
I just did this with DEI floor and tunnel shield. (Summit part no. DEI-050502). It's only 3/16" thick, has an embosed aluminium (can be polished) skin backed with fiberglass and is self adhesive. It withstands temperatures up to 1750 F.
My headers were actually burning my heater box. No problem now. I used the self adhesive and reinforced it with ss screws and washers.
Might be worth looking at.
My headers were actually burning my heater box. No problem now. I used the self adhesive and reinforced it with ss screws and washers.
Might be worth looking at.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Denton TX
Call me silly, but I took the 1200 degreee ceramic aluminum duplicolor spray paint and coated the inside and outside of the box before painting it black. I coated the manifolds with the same paint and it significantly reduced the temp under the hood...
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,503
Likes: 2
From: Raleigh NC
Here's how you tell if you need to insulate the box (or how well your insulation is working):
Remove fan speed resistor bank just high enough to slip temperature probe in. This spot is upstream from the heater core--so it should not effect temperature probe.
1. With car cold, turn a/c to VENT/HI FAN and measure the temperature going into the box, then move probe to the resistor bank hole. Now close hood.
2. As engine warms up, note temperature. It should not rise. If it does, check for a bad hood seal first.
3. Now measure temperature at the interior vents. If there's a heat rise, your heater water valve is disconnected, or otherwise not getting a vacuum signal, or is leaking by. If you have a vacuum leak anywhere in your a/c control system, the water valve and heater door will open upon brisk acceleration--causing a heated air pulse.
I insulated mine, and I have no heat rise at all. They are insulated in most newer cars. The accumulators are also insulated as well as the suction line to the compressor.
Remove fan speed resistor bank just high enough to slip temperature probe in. This spot is upstream from the heater core--so it should not effect temperature probe.
1. With car cold, turn a/c to VENT/HI FAN and measure the temperature going into the box, then move probe to the resistor bank hole. Now close hood.
2. As engine warms up, note temperature. It should not rise. If it does, check for a bad hood seal first.
3. Now measure temperature at the interior vents. If there's a heat rise, your heater water valve is disconnected, or otherwise not getting a vacuum signal, or is leaking by. If you have a vacuum leak anywhere in your a/c control system, the water valve and heater door will open upon brisk acceleration--causing a heated air pulse.
I insulated mine, and I have no heat rise at all. They are insulated in most newer cars. The accumulators are also insulated as well as the suction line to the compressor.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by 74FLCONV
Where do you get the "Zero Clearance" product?
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,255
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From: Manalapan FL
Originally Posted by bobs77vet
i keep the receipts at work and i will dig it out tomorrow. its like $75 for a 3x5 piece
P.S. - Mailed your washers today.
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 856
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From: Tyler Texas
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Patrick73
thats it....
