had to replace caliper and brake line so i thought it would it be a good time to put new brake fluid in,wrong! can not get air out of system. i have tried every sequence possible, still no brakes any ideas?

 

I had to go get a vacuum pump.

 

Hello,
See if something from this trouble shooting guide helps.

http://www.classicperform.com/TechBo...oubleshoot.htm

This site has a good troubleshooting methodology.

kdf

 

go to corvettefaq.com there are tons of bleeding procedures and ideas on there. Once you've done a c3 you'll be able to do any car, this thing is by far and away the most difficult to bleed car i've ever done, including those with abs.

 

where can i get a vaccum pump .

 

I think the vacuum pump that is being referred to is a hand held brake vacuum cannister that many automotive stores sell.

kdf

 

Rather than fool with vacuun bleeders, self bleeder valves, etc, get a power bleeder for about $60 and get the job done right the first time.

 

had a prob like that once on a 69 jaguar iI had - cut an innertube around the valve . then hose clamped it around the master and put an air hose to it--

 

I used a vacuum bleeder--it worked great. Until I drove from sea level to the mountains. Once I hit about 3000', some air came out from where it was hiding and I lost brakes--not a good time to do so! I ended up doing the Pump It/Hold It in an overlook parking lot.

 

I got mine at auto zone $25.00 It got all but the last little bit of air out.I still did the pump and bleed.If not for the vacuum it would of taken hours.

 

I replaced all four hoses and the steel lines on my TAs. I also had all four calipers off and lost most of the fluid from them and the master cylinder as well. I was able to bleed my brakes with the press the pedal, loosen the bleeder, tighten the bleeder, release the pedal procedure with no problems. It took about 15 minutes with a helper and my brakes work great. I read here all the time here about guys having to use pressure or vacuum bleeders . My brakes aren't power assisted. Could that make a difference or is there some other factor from one car to another?

 

I did my front brakes one year and my rear brakes the following year. Others on the forum recommended the gravity bleed system. It couldn't have been easier. Brakes work perfect.
I'll never bleed any other way.

 

i am a big fan of vacuum bleeders and have used then extensively and succesfully ....except for Corvettes!!!!!!!! i agree with 62fuelie and get the pressure bleeder

 

This guy can turn a wrench... IMOP

"I replaced all four hoses and the steel lines on my TAs. I also had all four calipers off and lost most of the fluid from them and the master cylinder as well. I was able to bleed my brakes with the press the pedal, loosen the bleeder, tighten the bleeder, release the pedal procedure with no problems. It took about 15 minutes with a helper and my brakes work great. I read here all the time here about guys having to use pressure or vacuum bleeders . My brakes aren't power assisted. Could that make a difference or is there some other factor from one car to another? "

This guy can turn a wrench too... IMOP

"I did my front brakes one year and my rear brakes the following year. Others on the forum recommended the gravity bleed system. It couldn't have been easier. Brakes work perfect.
I'll never bleed any other way."

Here's some more food for thought... based on the assumption of no pedal pressure...

If your bleeding technique is sound consider looking closely at your master cylinder.

1) You may have let the fluid drop down to (below) the ports inside the chamber.... and if so you need to "bench bleed" the M/C.

2) If your M/C is old, when you open any part of the system that allows the M/C plunger to travel further than it's "normal" depth (and you push it in), the "old" seals ride across any rust or deposits in the bore. This usually pushes the envelope on the seals and they fail.

3) If your switch (aka prop valve) is actually working properly (most are not) it will slide internally to block your bleeding efforts and must be re-centered before you can bleed. In that case, I bleed one front & one rear simultaneously so the switch won't catch me again. I have disassembled & tested several of these switches to test that theory. But since you have no pedal, this is not really a suspect.... just worth mentioning.

Just a couple of possibilities.

Any of the bleeding methods mentioned above will work if executed properly. It's a personal preference. I can use any of them successfully.

 

I replaced my master cylinder just the other day with a new Bendix unit and had the same problem you've described. Last year I replaced the rotors, pads, and calipers.

Mine kept pushing air out both front caliper bleeders as I was bleeding away....had me scratching my head. I capped everything off one at a time and split the lines at every junction....all was fine. Checked the proportioning valve.....

Turned out that my caliper piston seals were sucking air back in as I was bleeding on both front calipers. I tightened everything up, thinking I was going to have to replace those seals later.....gravity bled the system....and the pedal came back to life, just as it should be. I know this is wierd......but that's what finally worked for me. Can't beat that gravity bleeding, I guess.

jd

 

We also have to be careful with replacement master cylinders- they can sit on the shelf for a long time & get rusty on the inside. I disassemble each new/rebuilt M/C to check for rust BEFORE I install it. Have sent many back due to rust, before they were ever installed.

The vac pump will also work if you are careful not to over-do it. Too much vac and it draws air in past the piston inner seals, defeating the purpose. It has to be used with some moderation.

And... I've never tested this... but pressure bleeders -supposedly- can introduce air into the fluid... supposedly the pressure which forces the fluid also forces air into the fluid. A correctly designed pressure bleeder is supposed to have a bladder between the outside air & the fluid to prevent this.

The pressure bleeders I have used were all "professional" grade, so I can't debate that issue. IMOP the cheapies will still work reasonably well.

The key is "patience". If you can't modulate your instant gratification curve, none of the methods will work.

 

I have tried everyway to bleed brakes, from the original and still the cr*piest pedal pushing method, to gravity bleeding, vacuum bleeding and then I finally "splurged" on a pressure bleeder, BEST MONEY I EVER SPENT on a shop tool!

Stand up, walk away from your computer NOW and go and buy one, alternatively stay at your computer and order one online. Ok, ok, ok they are not that earth shatteringly brilliant but they are by far and away the best, most consistent way of bleeding brake systems.

Cosmicvette

 

When you guys are talking "pressure bleeder" are you referring to something like the Motive PowerBleeder?

You think you have fun with brakes, try bleeding a hydaulic clutch. We have a small block in the back of a Fiero and had to bleed the whole system. If you follow any / all of the shop manual procedures, you never get the air out and either shoot yourself or stumble onto a different procedure that requires you to remove the bleeder fitting on the slave completely, hand pull the slave rod to get bubbles to come out, continually refill the port where the bleeder screws in until pulling the slave doesn't show any bubbles and then replace the bleeder screw.

Sounds stupid, but works.

Daffy

 

I went through this recently with my 73'. Couldn't get a good pedal for nothing. Tired of asking my wife and daughter to come out and pump the brakes. Went out and purchased a new Motive Power Brake Bleeder. Well worth the money $51.95 plus shipping on Ebay. Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...541813039&rd=1

I will never go back to the old way of bleeding Corvette Brakes again. Took me no more then a half hour to hook up and have all calipers bled. Best pedal I ever had in my 73'.

A word of advice though. If you purchase the Motive Bleeder for early GM vehicles don't use the chain and J-hooks supplied by Motive to hold the Master Cylinder Adapter on to the Master Cylinder. Cut yourself a 6" piece of 1"x2" scrap wood and put that accross the adapter and use two 6" C-Clamps to secure the adapter to the master Cylinder and you will have a complete seal. The chain and J-hook setup supplied by Motive has caused problems with getting the adapter to seal properly. This has happened to plenty of members on the C-2 forum but a C-2 member there came up with the solution that I have described.

 

I use a piece of steel flatbar, about 8"X1-1/4", and a single large C-clamp right in the middle. Works great. Be sure to confirm that you have a seal, per the instructions, prior to adding fluid. Otherwise, you WILL have a mess.