Sorry for the delay; I had not realized how far this thread had evolved.

First, there's still plenty of hoses. The only change is that the headlights are hooked up to the air pump, not the vacuum canister.

This system totally divorces the headlight system from the engine.

Which means that you don't have to worry about small vacuum leaks in the headlight system effecting idle and the headlights can be raised or lowered while the motor is off.

I will be posting drawings and pics once I draw them. However...

The order of operation is:

1. Turn on headlights.

2. This energizes the headlights and sends a signal through a relay that energizes the 3-way valves and the air pump relay. The air pump relay will run the air pump for 10 seconds. This pump raises the headlights faster than the vacuum system--so, if your headlights are slow now, they'll be back to normal with the air pump.

The whole system cost me about $20 to do and can be installed in a few minutes.

Give me a couple of days to get all info up.

Oh, I have also modified the whole system to run H4 with True HID ballests. I'll add those part numbers and diagrams also. This adds $450 to the cost--but you can use only the outboard headlights as true HID and this costs about $225.

 

 

how does the relay come apart

 

OK what am I missing here ?? If all of your vacuum hoses are in good shape
and your system works what is the advantage of this mod.
I see an additional pump(weight)added.

you just don't like the stock control valves if they go bad for replacement cost reasons

I wonder why Miccy Ds uses a 12 volt source?
All I can find is electric grills, I am

waiting on pics and link information

 

I got them apart,, how and what do i use to seal them again {o-rings} the diaphragms are in good shape but they do leak do i just put o rings on either end of the diaphragm

 

http://www.corvette-101.com/relays.htm

 

I saw that method but theres one with o rings too

 

Is this the thread?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ay-valves.html

 

boy you guys were right on ,, this works great ,,the o rings fit right in but what a real bitch getting those tops back on ..I had to use a hose clamp to hold it in place then solder them up glad thats done

 

I found these solenoid valves. http://www.fremontindustrialsupply.c...alve%2C/Detail

If you use a reversing relay and use one solinoid with a tee for closing and one with a tee for opening. The solenoids will replace the relays. A micro switch on one light could shut the valve after the headlights open and close eliminating any chance of a leak at the actuator.

I will be ordering them soon and keep everyone posted

 

Using this one would be a lot less complicated.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

 

That valve would be much better. Much better if I thought this through. I need to figure out how to vent the vacuum from the side that goes inactive. If the one port closes it will keep vacuum as the other port opens and applies vacuum to the opposite side of the diaphragm in the actuator. The stock relay does this by allowing the inactive port to be open to the atmosphere via the tube cast along side the plunger tube of the relay.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Rebuild the stock relays. The venting is a real problem,I think you need 2 more valves to do it.

 

It would take two, three port/two position valves and a reversing relay. One valve to apply vacuum and one to vent (about $75 and lots of thought)

or

Four o-rings to rebuild the originals ($.50 and moderate manual dexterity)

or

Two hands to pull them up and a piece of cardboard to kneel on when reaching under to pull them down (Free and the way I do it now)

 

You could also use 4 of the manual pulldowns like is under your dash now.
They already have the vent built in.
I think the $.50 o-rings makes the most sense.

 

I am such a dumb *** I forgot to get o rings for the wiper actuator