Adjusting solid rollers.
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Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Atascadero Ca
Adjusting solid rollers.
Hey guys. I've got a comp solid roller with rolid roller lifters and polylocks.
What is the proper procedure for adjusting these things? I'm getting a fairly loud ticking from what i think (hope) is the valvetrain under hard acceleration. Its been probably 2k since the valves were adjusted. My lash is supposed to be .020, do I want that feeler gauge to be loose between the roller and the valve, or should it be tight? How do i get the polylocks to get tight without completely screwing up the lash i just set? And do I have to get each cylinder to tdc before adjusting the valves? In the past I have watched the valves, like if cylinder 1's intake valve is all the way open, I'd adjust 1's exhaust. Thus meaning i rotate the engine 16 times to adjust the valves, which sucks.
Any tips?
Thanks, Mike Cook
What is the proper procedure for adjusting these things? I'm getting a fairly loud ticking from what i think (hope) is the valvetrain under hard acceleration. Its been probably 2k since the valves were adjusted. My lash is supposed to be .020, do I want that feeler gauge to be loose between the roller and the valve, or should it be tight? How do i get the polylocks to get tight without completely screwing up the lash i just set? And do I have to get each cylinder to tdc before adjusting the valves? In the past I have watched the valves, like if cylinder 1's intake valve is all the way open, I'd adjust 1's exhaust. Thus meaning i rotate the engine 16 times to adjust the valves, which sucks.
Any tips?
Thanks, Mike Cook
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 948
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From: Johnston Iowa
Here the procedure I follow on my solid roller.
Valve lash is set after engine has been completely warmed up.
When the Intake valve just starts to CLOSE set the lash on the Exhaust valve.
When the Exhaust valve just starts to OPEN set the lash on the Intake valve.
You want the feeler gauge to kind of pop when you put it between the lifter and the valve tip. Not to tight not too loose.
On mine I hold the allen for lock in place and undo the nut.
Set the lash and then tighten the without moving the allen.
Then re-check the lash.
Valve lash is set after engine has been completely warmed up.
When the Intake valve just starts to CLOSE set the lash on the Exhaust valve.
When the Exhaust valve just starts to OPEN set the lash on the Intake valve.
You want the feeler gauge to kind of pop when you put it between the lifter and the valve tip. Not to tight not too loose.
On mine I hold the allen for lock in place and undo the nut.
Set the lash and then tighten the without moving the allen.
Then re-check the lash.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,025
Likes: 1
From: Billings MT
That noise could just be the sound of a solid roller. I can hear my valves over my exhaust going down the highway. 
I follow Comp Cams recommended valve setting procedure.
Set the exhaust valve when the intake is 3/4 of the way PAST peak lift (closing).
Set the intake valve when the exhaust valve just starts to open.
Also, do you have a stud girdle? They will help "lock" the poly-locks in place. The lash on my solid roller stays consistent even after 4000+ miles.
I follow Comp Cams recommended valve setting procedure.
Set the exhaust valve when the intake is 3/4 of the way PAST peak lift (closing).
Set the intake valve when the exhaust valve just starts to open.
Also, do you have a stud girdle? They will help "lock" the poly-locks in place. The lash on my solid roller stays consistent even after 4000+ miles.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
When you set the lash with the allen locking nut. use your 9/16th to adjust the lash "tight on the roller" Then at this point if you were to tighten the allen all the way it actually lifts the roller nut up because it's taking the thread to thread gap out.
It's kind of learn by practice. Only tighten the allen partialy. You then have caused extra lash. Take your 9/16 wrench and turn the rocker nut CW the extra 1/8 - 1/4 of turn which really locks the Allen down tight and the feeler gauge should now be at the correct lash again.
I use the feeler gauge with the angle in them and T-handle allens. I can do the whole motor in a couple of turns. Where ever the motor stops you can usually do 30-50% of the valves. I have a set of smaller nails on my bench and I just sit one down in each lock nut after I'm done so I know what's been done already.
It's kind of learn by practice. Only tighten the allen partialy. You then have caused extra lash. Take your 9/16 wrench and turn the rocker nut CW the extra 1/8 - 1/4 of turn which really locks the Allen down tight and the feeler gauge should now be at the correct lash again.
I use the feeler gauge with the angle in them and T-handle allens. I can do the whole motor in a couple of turns. Where ever the motor stops you can usually do 30-50% of the valves. I have a set of smaller nails on my bench and I just sit one down in each lock nut after I'm done so I know what's been done already.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,770
Likes: 3
From: St Louis MO
Originally Posted by i885744
Hey guys. I've got a comp solid roller with rolid roller lifters and polylocks.
Couldn't resist that one. I was wondering about the same thing when I first lashed my solid cam. I usually adjust mine so the feeler is nice & tight and I try to be consistent with the feel across the entire valvetrain.Brett
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 687
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From: Atascadero Ca
Originally Posted by VETDRMS
That noise could just be the sound of a solid roller. I can hear my valves over my exhaust going down the highway.
I follow Comp Cams recommended valve setting procedure.
Set the exhaust valve when the intake is 3/4 of the way PAST peak lift (closing).
Set the intake valve when the exhaust valve just starts to open.
Also, do you have a stud girdle? They will help "lock" the poly-locks in place. The lash on my solid roller stays consistent even after 4000+ miles.
I follow Comp Cams recommended valve setting procedure.
Set the exhaust valve when the intake is 3/4 of the way PAST peak lift (closing).
Set the intake valve when the exhaust valve just starts to open.
Also, do you have a stud girdle? They will help "lock" the poly-locks in place. The lash on my solid roller stays consistent even after 4000+ miles.
