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Unless you have a in.lb. torque meter, you won't be able to get there. It's about 80 to 100 in.lb. This is about as tight as you could get the bolts with a nut driver (a screwdriver handle with a hex instead of screw flutes).
don't mean to jump on his thread but i have a similar inquiry. ihave to change gaskets also, which is best... rubber, cork or paper
depends--if you are going to take the cover off quite a bit to check rockers etc. I like the rubber--otherwise the corks are just fine and a bit cheaper.
Also if using the stamped covers make sure the holes are not "sunk in" toward the head. If they are you can use a small ball peen and piece of wood to flatten them back out. This is not the greastest option in the world but sometimes with these thin stamped parts like valve covers, timing cover and oil pan you have to use some persuasion to reuse them. Also I have found the cork gaskets work better with stamped covers, just make sure and use some emblem adhesive or equivalent glue to glue them to the valve cover this will make life a lot easier to install or reinstall them.
don't mean to jump on his thread but i have a similar inquiry. ihave to change gaskets also, which is best... rubber, cork or paper
Personally, I spend the money and get the rubber covered steel frames. Mine last and never leak...AND I can take the covers off and on without replacing them. No sealant required.
P.S. I do have cast aluminum covers. Don't know about the stamped steel ones being better with cork.