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Norval - With slicks you have enough traction with a line lock on that it will push the front tires through the lights. Same thing power brake as the rpm comes up. the fronts are locked and the motor will overcome the rear brakes and push the car through the lights.
Even with my 3500 stall 9.5 inch converter I don't get much of 1600 rpm before it will move the car power braking. The best thing if your going to race. Don't do it half a$$. Just get a tranny with a transbrake. Your faster and the reaction times are nearly perfect every time.
I actually have a transbrake but haven't used it yet...
Tried to drive the car today but the tranny would only shift into 2 at 4500 RPM during regular driving
Gonna call CPT on Monday and see what they say..
Might just pull the tranny and go with a built TH350...
I actually have a transbrake but haven't used it yet...
Tried to drive the car today but the tranny would only shift into 2 at 4500 RPM during regular driving
Gonna call CPT on Monday and see what they say..
Might just pull the tranny and go with a built TH350...
Why do you want a 350 ,get a 400 and be done, go to mikes trannys out of cali and get his 400. Your done forever.Get it with the ultra bell case.later put a shiftnoid on it and set your shift points electronically and you can concentrate on driving .As far as your launch ,I think you got too much tire for your motor.Dont rev it so freakin high and see if it responds to less initial launch rpm.If your running et streets you dont want water on them in the burnout, go around it and warm them up without water, they will heat up without much spinning.If you overheat /spin them they wont hook well.come on lets get that bad boy in the 10s.
Why do you want a 350 ,get a 400 and be done, go to mikes trannys out of cali and get his 400. Your done forever.Get it with the ultra bell case.later put a shiftnoid on it and set your shift points electronically and you can concentrate on driving .As far as your launch ,I think you got too much tire for your motor.Dont rev it so freakin high and see if it responds to less initial launch rpm.If your running et streets you dont want water on them in the burnout, go around it and warm them up without water, they will heat up without much spinning.If you overheat /spin them they wont hook well.come on lets get that bad boy in the 10s.
I'm not considering a TH400 for a simle reason: They are heavy and eat up about 15 HP more than a TH350. I've seen proof of that several times on the dyno...
I don't think that my tires are too big... especially because I didn't have any bog when I had a mid 1.50's 60' time last Saturday.
I don't know why you think that I launched at too high RPM.. I actually launched at 1000 RPM (idle) and had a little bog when reving up (maybe caused by TOO LITTLE RPM).... I usually make a very short burnout just to warm them up a little and never have traction issues.
Anyway, it'll be a while before I'll be racing again. Will call CPT on Monday to see if they'll stand behind their product and fix the tranny.. I might get a TH350 inbetween and sell either the TH200R4 or the TH350 when I'll get the TH200R4 back (if they end up fixing it).
I'm not considering a TH400 for a simle reason: They are heavy and eat up about 15 HP more than a TH350. I've seen proof of that several times on the dyno...
Ollie, we don't race our cars on the dyno, we race them on the track, and it if can't move or shift correctly/consistently, it's not much good to you, is it?
You have a legitmate 10-second car, so why worry about 15 HP:
that's a serious hammer, not a Cross-Fire!
THM400's have closer gearing, so the RPMs won't drop as-far on the gear-change, but if you like the lower 1st gear ratio, have a THM400 built with extra low gears-sets in it: TCI makes 2.75:1/1.57:1/1:1 ratio sets.
I haven't read your other post and will now but that sucks if the transmission needs to come out and shipped back. I remember you have a solid crossmember and need to pull the engine. Again that sucks. You should consider making the crossmember removable this time for future.
[QUOTE=gkull]Norval - With slicks you have enough traction with a line lock on that it will push the front tires through the lights. Same thing power brake as the rpm comes up. the fronts are locked and the motor will overcome the rear brakes and push the car through the lights.
George we all did it that way. Even with my 12 inch slicks I could set the line lock and bring the rpm up to 6500 in gear with the slicks merrily spinning away and it would hold.
That was the common way of doing it back in the 70's. We weren't running corvettes but instead mustangs, camao's and hemi cuda's but we all launched with a spinning start. I had nitrous in the early 70's , got it through the university. 456 gears was the norm, no overdrive transmission. We think of the good old days but they weren't really that good We were all in the range from 10.2 to 12.1
Ollie, we don't race our cars on the dyno, we race them on the track, and it if can't move or shift correctly/consistently, it's not much good to you, is it?
You have a legitmate 10-second car, so why worry about 15 HP:
that's a serious hammer, not a Cross-Fire!
THM400's have closer gearing, so the RPMs won't drop as-far on the gear-change, but if you like the lower 1st gear ratio, have a THM400 built with extra low gears-sets in it: TCI makes 2.75:1/1.57:1/1:1 ratio sets.
Best-of-luck, GLEN.
Glen, what's wrong with the TH350? We have a local builder who exlusively builds TH350's for local racers and his trannies are in many low 9 second cars. Even if there are problems, I won't have to ship the tranny to some other place to get it fixed... The TH400 is interesting if you have well above 1000 HP...
I haven't read your other post and will now but that sucks if the transmission needs to come out and shipped back. I remember you have a solid crossmember and need to pull the engine. Again that sucks. You should consider making the crossmember removable this time for future.
The fixed crossmember isn't really that big of a deal for me... Takes me about 3 hours to pull engine and transmission... and about 3.5 hours to put them back in...
Thats a big bog. Almost sounds like your secondaries are opening way too soon...
The people who really want to go fast use a 5000 stall and a 2 speed powerglide....
The secondaries were completely open... It's a MECHANICAL secondaries carb and when I floor the pedal, primaries and secondaries are open completely. Only when RPM builds up and the vacuum drops, the power valves will release additional fuel. I think that the main problem that cause the bog was that I did not bring the RPMs up before launching... I did that before and it worked, but maybe my idle was 100 or so RPM's higher at that pass..
The glide has a boo small first gear.. The 60' times would suck big time with the glide...
Last edited by GrandSportC3; Apr 23, 2005 at 09:18 AM.
The fixed crossmember isn't really that big of a deal for me... Takes me about 3 hours to pull engine and transmission... and about 3.5 hours to put them back in...
4 summers ago I went through 3 700R4's and 4 torque converters. I had it down to under 1 hour to pull the transmission.
If you want to go racing you need everything as simple as possible. Spend the few bucks and make life easier for you in the future. If something is hard to get at make it easy. I even had a removable access door in the floor to get at the transmission cooling line fittings.
Correct me if I am wrong but didn't you want to also make the GSC3 streetable and also run on pump gas?
Did you check and double check the TV cable where it actuates AT THE TRANNY???? If she is not going into 1st, the valving could have come "unadjusted" I believe.
I wish you still lived closer to me and Mr. Wonderful. It could be a good learning experience
I'm guessing GSC3 is too-heavy to effectively use a 'Glide.....
?????
too heavy and not enough power to overcome the small first gear... I need at least 2.50's first gear (preferably 2.75 or bigger)
The larger 1-2 RPM drop doesn't concern me at all. The engine has a lot of torque. Just check out in the video how fast the car went through second gear, and the TH200R4 has a larger jump between gears than a TH350 or TH400...
Correct me if I am wrong but didn't you want to also make the GSC3 streetable and also run on pump gas?
Well, things have changed. The engine would very likely run on pump gas with retarded timing and jetted richer... but I want to keep the car dialed in for the track.. I bought the C5 to have a Vette to drive around. I still drive the '68 around town but it's unlikely that I'll make any longer trips with the car anymore.... The car is setup right now to run 110 - 112 octane leaded...
Did you check and double check the TV cable where it actuates AT THE TRANNY???? If she is not going into 1st, the valving could have come "unadjusted" I believe.
I checked the TV cable yesterday and it seems adjusted fine. It's setup so it's fully pulled out at WOT without preventing WOT.. You want maximum line pressure at WOT....
I wish you still lived closer to me and Mr. Wonderful. It could be a good learning experience
Glen, what's wrong with the TH350? We have a local builder who exlusively builds TH350's for local racers and his trannies are in many low 9 second cars. Even if there are problems, I won't have to ship the tranny to some other place to get it fixed... The TH400 is interesting if you have well above 1000 HP...
There is nothing 'wrong' with a well-built THM350:
I'm of the idea that your car is a street-driven/bracket-racer, where durability is more crucial than freeing-up a few extra HP in pursuit of the all-mighty Low ET that using the THM350 might offer.....
I'd think a quick walk-thru the pits of either BMP or MMP would confirm that most 10-second cars, running a 3-speed GM trans, are using 400's as-opposed to 350's.
4 summers ago I went through 3 700R4's and 4 torque converters. I had it down to under 1 hour to pull the transmission.
If you want to go racing you need everything as simple as possible. Spend the few bucks and make life easier for you in the future. If something is hard to get at make it easy. I even had a removable access door in the floor to get at the transmission cooling line fittings.
I actually do have a removable access plate to the cooling lines .. Just cut a hole and covered it with a screwed on aluminum plate...
If I'll find somebody that can make my crossmember removable for an acceptable amount of $$, I'll have it made removable...
There is nothing 'wrong' with a well-built THM350:
I'm of the idea that your car is a street-driven/bracket-racer, where durability is more crucial than freeing-up a few extra HP in pursuit of the all-mighty Low ET that using the THM350 might offer.....
I'd think a quick walk-thru the pits of either BMP or MMP would confirm that most 10-second cars, running a 3-speed GM trans, are using 400's as-opposed to 350's.
I'm sure that there are more TH400 cars, but I always like to get the maximum performance out of my setup. I would bet that those with the TH400 would pick up a tenth or so if they'd switch to a TH350...
For my setup, the TH350 would be a better choice... My car is light and the engine makes great torque.. The TH400 is better for heavier cars or cars with power-adders... but for what I have, the TH350 would be the better choice...especially because we have a local builder who builds them to over 1000 HP...
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