Perhaps your right.

In your case you should go with a T-400 or a Glide.
I'm putting a glide in my car with a Pro Brake.

Good luck at the track this weekend and for Gods sake manually shift it the damn thing!!!

Take care,

Joe

 

Well, I won't be at the track until I replace the tranny or have it fixed

Might be down for a while...

 

Oliver, seriously consider the 400. They are much more reliable than a 350. I don't know why you are so worried about a 1/10 (if it even adds up to that) With a properly built 400 you would race trouble free for years. You seem to think the 1000 hp mark is when you would need a 400, whether or not that is true, what if you decide you want more power?

There is a reason why almost everybody runs a 400.

 

Well if you can't get things worked out there I have some good folks here that can get her tuned up.

It would be nice to get some people together and rent the track for a private test n tune.

Good luck

 

The engine is not a concern.. it's only the tranny...
Will try to get a new tranny in within a month or so...
I would be interested in a private track rental once the car is back together... I would prever Bradenton over Orlando because they don't spray the track except for big events.. Went to Orlando about 2 - 3 weeks ago and the track condition sucked...

 

The main reason is that I'm sooo close to 10's and a TH400 over a TH350 could make the difference in running 10's or not running 10's...

If I would run 10.80 instead of 10.70 it would be ok, but running 11.05 instead of 10.95 it's not ok in my book.. I want to get into 10's and the TH350 is a great tranny if built right. Like I said, we have a local builder that exclusively builds TH350's for the track and I know many people who run his trannies and are very satisfied.. Some of those guys run low 6's on the 1/8 mile at the local track with his trannys. I wll go with manual valve body and reversed shift pattern...
Still gotta talk to CPT to see if they'll agree to fix the tranny...

 

Oliver, I'm in agreement with everyone else. Go with a 400 especially since you are going to run a trans brake and don't plan to have it be a dual purpose street and strip car.. The case is stronger as well as the internals. They didn't put them in the big trucks for nothing. They were made to handle a lot of torque with minimal failures. The few HP you lose can be picked up somewhere else relatively easily.

The problem with your 200 is probably going to be trash in the govenor or a ball sticking in your valve body somewhere. New trans will wear the clutches in, just like your rings have to wear into the bore on a new motor. These fine peices of clutch will circulate thru the trans and cause things to stick.

Change your fluid and filter, pull the govenor and clean it and the bore real good and put it back in. It's easy to do. Pry off the cap with a screwdriver, pull the govenor straight out spray it with carb cleaner, spray out the bore with carb cleaner put it all back together and fill it back up with fluid. Redline, Royal purple,and B&M make an excellent synthetic trans fluid.

See it that will help your problems before you go to all the trouble of pulling the trans. After you change the fluid go ahead and try out the trans brake. It will bring the pressure up in the trans and blow out and stubborn trash the might still be in any of the valves and you will know if the trans brake is adding to or not affecting your problem.

Good luck,
Eddie

 

For the 700R4 it's not only good enough that you have the TV cable adjusted correctly for full travel and initial settings. Also the geometry needs to be set correctly so that the TV travels at the proper rate of increase. Do you have a holley? A 700R4 isn't really made for a holley but you can buy an adjustment cable connector that attached to the throttle gear at the carb. The hesitation may have been transmission flare up between shifts - again solved by proper TV cable geometry.

Then again, if you never had this problem before and nothing else has changed then I would say that is not the issue.

 

They also make a performance filter for the 200' and 700's that have the pickup at the back of the pan. Hard acceleration can uncover the pickup on a stock filter.

 

 

Looks like you now have two problems; tranny and the bog. Both have to be fixed. You could play around and work on the bog while waiting for a transmission. Perhaps launching it a little higher in rpm will get rid of it. It's safe to say the cam you have is not designed to run smooth at 1000 or 1200 rpms nor make lost of power way down there. It seems like the bog is carb related. Yes, I know it wasn't there last week. Like others have said, try making some changes with the accelerator pump. If you go the wrong way the bog should get bigger. If you give it a bigger and bigger shot and no improvement, try going the opposite way. Perhaps one of the more experienced guys at the track will not only help with advise but also loan some parts to try.

 

So, have a low-gear (for the performance) THM400 (for the durability) built for the car, and have the best of both worlds.


If you like 'wringing-out' the tires off the line, look around:
you might find somebody making 3:1 First Gear ratio gear-sets available, too.

 

Norval - to speed up my tranny removal I just went with quick disconnect 1/2 inch steel braided cooling lines.

Oliver - I've never had a TH350 last. It seems odd to me having tranny failure so fast. I've had very good luck and 4 years of abuse on my 850 hp rated 700. Sorry about your bad luck!

 

The thing is that it was working fine before with the same setting...

 

Can you come down and help??

 

I have a deep pan with a brand new filter assembly for it...

 

I'll still loose at least 15 HP with the TH400.. That might be too much to hit 10's...

 

"O" even you can do that.

10mm socket, small extension, ratchet, and a flat head screw driver. 10-14 quarts trans fluid, new filter, and gasket, can of carb cleaner (kind with the long push in tip is best) and your set.

Drain the fluid, just pull your temp sensor, put a catch pan under it, remove the bolts, drop the pan, get a beer and let it drip for a few. Pull the bolt out of the middle of the filter and pull down, make sure the rubber O ring is on it, if not fish it out. Put the new filter with the new O ring back in and bolt it back down. Scrape all the old gasket off put the new gasket on. I use a few spots of gasket sealer just to hold it in place on the pan. Bolt the pan back up. Don't overtighten the bolts or it will deform the pan and it will leak. Just get them good and snug. Put the temp sensor back in.

The govenor is behind a round metal cap on the drivers side of the trans. It looks like an oversized dust cap on a rotor. Take your screw driver and pry around the lip till it comes out. The govenor is right behind it. grab it and pull it out. It might have to twist a bit as there is a plastic gear on the end of it. It will come out easily. It's an assembly so don't worry it won't fall apart. Spray it off with the carb cleaner and set it to the side somewhere clean to dry. Spray the carb cleaner liberely in the bore. Let it dry a few minutes and put it all back together. Just slide the govenor back in till it bottoms out and tap the cap back on.

Fill it up with fluid. Crank the car and check the fluid again. Top off if necessary. Run thu the gears a few times while you hold the brakes and check it again.

Then your set to go. This is an easy job that shouldn't take you but about an hour to do. The worst part is jacking up the car and crawling under it. I would really try this if I was you before you give up on the trans.

80% of the time shifting problems can be cured by doing this. As long as you don't have other problems with the clutches slipping, TV cable adjustment, or linkage adjustment this should fix your problem with the shift point.

 

I'll add my vote to a Turbo 400. Heavy duty and nearly unbreakable.
What good is a trans that gets you close to 10s if it keeps malfunctioning and needs to be rebuilt every few runs? There's a reason why they used the Turbo 400 in Jim Hall's Chaparral Can Am cars back in the 70s.

Dep

 

IMHO.......T400 all the way. I told you that 1 year ago when you first decided to go to automatics.
In past posts you mention you might want to add some spray in the future. With the built T400, you are all set. I'm sure your local guy is great, but it seems to me that all of the above posters really know their stuff......Listen to those who know. They have your best interests at heart, and have the knowledge of past personal experience to back it up.