Clutch fork Question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,527
Likes: 1
From: St. Petersburg, Fl///Columbus, Ohio
Clutch fork Question
Can the Clutch fork be replaced without pulling the transmission or engine?? I just noticed the spring that holds the ball in place is broken & I'd like to replace it.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 641
Likes: 2
From: Storm lake Iowa
The only way it would come out without removing the bellhousing is if the spring clip is broken (like yours), and if you were able to remove the pivot ball. I don't know how you'd get the new fork back in with an intact spring and get it properly hooked behind the pivot ball though...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
Fugetaboudit...I have all the pieces on a table and out of curosity tried to get the fork through the bellhousing opening and it ain't going to happen. All my parts are original to my sb Chevy. I guess GM eingineers didn't think the fork retainer clip was ever going to break.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,527
Likes: 1
From: St. Petersburg, Fl///Columbus, Ohio
Another project that's going to "snowball" on me!!!
Looks like I'll pull the BRAND NEW, RUSTING Hooker headers/sidepipes & get them Jet Hot coated, pull the engine & replace the clutch fork!!
While the engine is out I might as well detail the engine compartment & finish re-wiring while I wait for my headers to return.....
That $50.00 clutch for is going to cost a bundle!!!!
Looks like I'll pull the BRAND NEW, RUSTING Hooker headers/sidepipes & get them Jet Hot coated, pull the engine & replace the clutch fork!!
While the engine is out I might as well detail the engine compartment & finish re-wiring while I wait for my headers to return.....
That $50.00 clutch for is going to cost a bundle!!!!
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Pro
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 564
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh PA
I'd looked at this exact issue about two weeks ago....
The clutch ball inside the bellhousing is retained by a beveled bolt that can be turned by an allen wrench...
IF you pull the trans partially out of the bell-housing, you might be able to gain enough access to it, without completely having to drop the trans onto the floor... From there, loosening the bolt may allow you to remove the clutch ball from inside the bell-housing... Of course, it'll be a lot of fun to install the new clutch-fork and clutch ball as an assembled unit- it seems to me that a lot depends on how much of your hand you can get through the access hole on the side of bell-housing...
And then, even with this approach, it's still not gonna' be fun- the stock shifter mounting plates and shifter itself, are gonna' test your patience...
I'll watch this thread- I'm curious what your results will be.
Eric
The clutch ball inside the bellhousing is retained by a beveled bolt that can be turned by an allen wrench...
IF you pull the trans partially out of the bell-housing, you might be able to gain enough access to it, without completely having to drop the trans onto the floor... From there, loosening the bolt may allow you to remove the clutch ball from inside the bell-housing... Of course, it'll be a lot of fun to install the new clutch-fork and clutch ball as an assembled unit- it seems to me that a lot depends on how much of your hand you can get through the access hole on the side of bell-housing...
And then, even with this approach, it's still not gonna' be fun- the stock shifter mounting plates and shifter itself, are gonna' test your patience...
I'll watch this thread- I'm curious what your results will be.
Eric
Last edited by breathial; Apr 28, 2005 at 07:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,527
Likes: 1
From: St. Petersburg, Fl///Columbus, Ohio
Sounds like all I gotta do is make a little room....
sit down & replace the clutch fork!!!
BTW.... I've lost over 40 lbs since last fall when that was taken!!!
sit down & replace the clutch fork!!!
BTW.... I've lost over 40 lbs since last fall when that was taken!!!
Last edited by jcswm; Apr 28, 2005 at 07:32 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,527
Likes: 1
From: St. Petersburg, Fl///Columbus, Ohio
Originally Posted by Engraver
[
How much horse power is under the hood?
How much horse power is under the hood?
6'3 250lbs (now) = at least one Ox
Last edited by jcswm; Apr 28, 2005 at 07:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,527
Likes: 1
From: St. Petersburg, Fl///Columbus, Ohio
I'll trade a running, bone stock, numbers matching (to my car) l-82 (little smoke) With stand..... if your talking about the engine in your Avitar!!!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,527
Likes: 1
From: St. Petersburg, Fl///Columbus, Ohio
I'll trade a running, bone stock, numbers matching (to my car) l-82 (little smoke) With stand..... if your talking about the Big block in your Avitar!!!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,338
Likes: 786
From: Redondo Beach, California
In the mid 1970's I bought a Lakewood scattershield bellhousing. It had a bottom section that could be removed. You could acess the the clutch from the bottom of the bellhousing opening. You didn't have to seperate the bellhousing from the engine or seperate the transmission. Replacing the clutch fork would have been easy. I bought another Lakewood about two years ago and I don't believe they offered the two-piece bellhousing. I thought the bellhousing with the opening was a great idea.
About the Lakewood. In the mid 1970's. the instructions were that you had to alighn the bellhousing to the engine with a micrometer gauge. This was not required with the stock cast aluminum bellhousing. At that time I thought that Lakewood just didn't have the money to make the big hydraulic press tooling to make their steel bellhousing accurate. I was upset to find that in 2003, Lakewood still required he micrometer alighment process. I would have thought that in the 30 year period they would have got their tooling accuracy up to snuff.
About the Lakewood. In the mid 1970's. the instructions were that you had to alighn the bellhousing to the engine with a micrometer gauge. This was not required with the stock cast aluminum bellhousing. At that time I thought that Lakewood just didn't have the money to make the big hydraulic press tooling to make their steel bellhousing accurate. I was upset to find that in 2003, Lakewood still required he micrometer alighment process. I would have thought that in the 30 year period they would have got their tooling accuracy up to snuff.
