I installed the Steeroids system in my 81' a few weeks ago and everything went pretty much as expected. granted I'm not the most experienced guy on earth when it comes to working on my car but I originally bought the car so I could learn as I go

I have been working on it on and off ever since but I just can't seem to get the last little bit of binding out of the steering linkage. I have followed all of the procedures in the installation instructions, adjusted the support bracket, loosened the steering column and moved it back as far as it would go and tried to angle it as much as possible to reduce the angles between the column and the rack but I just can't get the binding out of it. I have succeeded in getting it perfect when everything is loose but as soon as I tighten it down it goes right back to binding on me. I am hoping to get the car registered and actually start driving it again in May but I'm not going to do that until I feel it is safe to drive and with it binding the way it is, I just don't get that feeling. Can anyone give me some tips on how to fix this problem?

If anyone has experience with this adjustment or just wants to help me tinker with it and lives close to the central coast of California I would be happy to provide the grill, steaks and beer for the assistance.

 

Wish I could help, I just installed mine this weekend and it fit like a glove no binding issues. What part of the linkage is causing the problem?

Try calling Speed Direct; they have a great customer service department. I actually striped one of the tie rod ends and they sent me a replacement free of charge and even paid for the shipping.

 

the only area i that i could see creating the bind in my appilcation was the heim joint in the middle of the steering shaft.....it takes very little adjustment in that area to alter the settings.....those two really big nuts on the side of the heim joint where it connects to the frame are where you need to focus your attention....why not loosen those up and then tighten down the rest of it keep moving one of those nuts until you eliminate the bind....and then tighten the other one up....we are talking a really small movement here will make a difference....

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My experience is that you want the heim joint as far out as possible and the steering collumn as short as possible.

In the pic above there is a little of the end of the heim still sticking out. I would move the nut as colse to the end of the threads as possible and then shorten the steering collumn as much as possible. This will decrease the angle of the double joint, hopefully enough...

 

i don't remember where in the process this picture was taken .....it may have been before it was finally tweaked.....i will say that i ran into header interference, but I do not have any binding issues....make sure that for your final setting your car has weight on the front wheels and its not on jack stands the frame flex may impact final settings


on another note...427v8....what is in your picture a tr2a?

 

7-8 hour trip for me, unless Gkull wants to take a trip, then maybe 3-4. lol

 

Thanks a million guys 427V8 nailed it right on the money. I got to looking at Bobs picture and the angles seem just about the same as my setup so I figured it almost HAS to be the heim joint. I adjusted it out until the outside nut was flush with the end of the threaded rod then tightened the other nut down as much as I could. The greater majority of the binding is gone and she drives like a brand new car (which needs a front end alignment ) I'm going to let it sit until tomorrow afternoon then go put it up on jack stands and check the torque on all the bolts just to make sure everything is holding tight. By the middle of May she should be tagged and back on the road again.

As for 88'Cubka, 7-8 hours seems like kind of a long drive just to adjust a few nuts but if you want to swing by I still have a fridge full of steaks and beer.

 

good job and glad the picture helped.

 

Glad you found the problem. If I were you, I would lockwire any nut or bolt in that system just to be on the safe side, especially if you have no threads left (a big no-no in my profession). The reason it's binding is due to the serious angle on the shaft. When you take a U-joint to the extreme like that, it wants to lift or pull when it's rotated, that's why it didn't bind when it was loose. A small CV joint might work better in that application.

 

Actually the reason it binds is because the Ujoint is bent so far it hits itself and cannot bend anymore.

One other trick I used is to make sure the steering shaft is below flush with the edge of the ujoint on the inside, that allows just a little more travel...

 

Yeah, that's when it fully locks up, but just before that it will start pulling because of the axis of the joint. IMO, there should be an angle gearbox in that location.

 

i just got back in town and checked my set up...i have about 1/4" of threads showing on the "front side" and i am almost hitting headers an on the other side....i have no binding issues....and be sure to use lock tight on that stuff.