Ball Joint Removal
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
Ball Joint Removal
I done a lot of differnet things but never worked on the front suspension. I went for an inspection and was told the left lower ball joint had to much play. I started taking things apart that night and last night. I also ordered a front end kit from Van Steel, so everything is going to be changed.
The lower ball joint has two rivets. The manual I have says to chisel off the end of the rivets; however, I decided to grind off the head. I then tried to use a punch to drive the rivet out. No luck no matter how hard it hit them. Is this par for the course or am I doing something wrong? Should I just drill the rivets at this point? The other thing is how hard should the knuckle (steering spindle) be to get off the ball joints. I finally got if off but it took for ever. Since I have the other side to do, I'm looking for better ways.
The lower ball joint has two rivets. The manual I have says to chisel off the end of the rivets; however, I decided to grind off the head. I then tried to use a punch to drive the rivet out. No luck no matter how hard it hit them. Is this par for the course or am I doing something wrong? Should I just drill the rivets at this point? The other thing is how hard should the knuckle (steering spindle) be to get off the ball joints. I finally got if off but it took for ever. Since I have the other side to do, I'm looking for better ways.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
"The other part..."
There are several ways to loosen a BJ.
I use an OTC puller.
Two hammers.... one hits the side of the knuckle while the other hits the BJ stud simultaneously.
Pickle Fork.... separator.... but it ruins the seal... if you are going to re-use the BJ this is bad.
Typically, people over-torque the nut on the stud, and since it's a tapered fit, the BJ stud jams in the hole and is tough to remove.
There are several ways to loosen a BJ.
I use an OTC puller.
Two hammers.... one hits the side of the knuckle while the other hits the BJ stud simultaneously.
Pickle Fork.... separator.... but it ruins the seal... if you are going to re-use the BJ this is bad.
Typically, people over-torque the nut on the stud, and since it's a tapered fit, the BJ stud jams in the hole and is tough to remove.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 16,978
Likes: 7
From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
Originally Posted by Tom454
"The other part..."
Pickle Fork.... separator.... but it ruins the seal... if you are going to re-use the BJ this is bad.
Pickle Fork.... separator.... but it ruins the seal... if you are going to re-use the BJ this is bad.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,608
Likes: 3
From: Canberra AUSTRALIA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Old Forge Puller Part number 2544 or 2542. It costs about $65 but you can use it on the ball joints, pitman arm, tie rod ends. Nice thing is it does not crack the boots and you don't have to start beating things with hammers.
Never did like pickle forks.
To get the rivets out drill them. Once they are hollowed you can punch them out. A lot easier on a work bench. Since you have it pulled apart this far I assume you are going to replace the A-arm bushings right?
Pete
Never did like pickle forks.
To get the rivets out drill them. Once they are hollowed you can punch them out. A lot easier on a work bench. Since you have it pulled apart this far I assume you are going to replace the A-arm bushings right?
Pete
Pro
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 1
From: Valparaiso IN
Originally Posted by GDaina
If you are going to replace the ball joint, two whacks on the pickle fork will loosen the joint...just don't take the nut completely off...loosen about 1/8"-1/4" then whack on the pickle fork...you will destroy the rubber boot, but so what, the new joint should have a new boot.
This is the way to do it..Also make sure that you have a spring compressor on that spring. If you don't, that spring can come out of there with enuf force to seriously hurt you. 
Autozone will loan you the compressor for free.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Originally Posted by stingry
Old Forge Puller Part number 2544 or 2542. It costs about $65 but you can use it on the ball joints, pitman arm, tie rod ends. Nice thing is it does not crack the boots and you don't have to start beating things with hammers.
Never did like pickle forks.
Pete
Never did like pickle forks.
Pete
I agree... I bought a set of pickle forks 40 years ago... and only used them a few times in all those years.
The OTC pitman arm pullers that I have are also expensive, but they pay for themselves many times over, and the ease of use is a ++.
Don't confuse tie rod remover with pitman arm puller though... they are in different leagues when it comes to stuck ball joints.
I use my pitman arm pullers to remove tie rods just to re-paint them when they get crusty. No seal damage.
This is the same tool(s) I use for the P/S control valve stud to avoid damaging the steering gear when removing the valve.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
I did remove the knuckle with a pickle fork. I beat it pretty hard, even tried heating it with a propane tourch. It finally broke free. Since This was the first time, I wasn't sure if I needed a bigger wind up when swinging the 4lb hammer. I wish it only took 2 swift hits to pop loose. I did as suggested and only loosened the nuts, not remove them. I hope the other side is a little easier, I can't imagine it being tighter.
Yes, I am going to replace the ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings plus give everything a coat of paint.
Thanks for the info; the reassurance makes me feel a little better.
Edit: I also did a search and saw that this is a common issue for first timers. I also found Lar's removal/installation procedure.
Yes, I am going to replace the ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings plus give everything a coat of paint.
Thanks for the info; the reassurance makes me feel a little better.
Edit: I also did a search and saw that this is a common issue for first timers. I also found Lar's removal/installation procedure.
Last edited by mandm1200; Apr 29, 2005 at 01:22 PM.
