Ist TIME VERT OWNER-SOME QUESTIONS
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Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Ist TIME VERT OWNER-SOME QUESTIONS
Hello Everyone. I just purchased my first vert (a 1972 350 base car) a couple days ago. There are a couple minor issues with it that I hope to get some direction on correcting. First, the headlights don't go into the down position when the vehicle is turned off. Secondly, the RPM needle doesn't work and the water temperature gauge is also inoperable. Are these issues that a novice can address with a Chilton manuel, or should I consult a specialist? Thanks in advance for the help.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,713
Likes: 31
From: Shreveport LA
LA Events Coordinator
Welcome aboard!!!
Re: lights....the lights must be manually turned off with the switch before the lights go down (assuming everything is working properly...vacuum lines, electrical etc etc etc)
As far as the temp sensor..that can be replaced easily.
Not that familiar with the tach on your model...I have a 75 with a HEI distriutor (that runs the tach).
If you're not that familiar with working on cars, I recommend finding a good trustworthy mechanic and use him. I have a mechanic at the local Chevy dealership that I trust completely with my car....
hope this helps!
Re: lights....the lights must be manually turned off with the switch before the lights go down (assuming everything is working properly...vacuum lines, electrical etc etc etc)
As far as the temp sensor..that can be replaced easily.
Not that familiar with the tach on your model...I have a 75 with a HEI distriutor (that runs the tach).
If you're not that familiar with working on cars, I recommend finding a good trustworthy mechanic and use him. I have a mechanic at the local Chevy dealership that I trust completely with my car....
hope this helps!
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
If the lights go down when the engine is running, this is normal. They are vacuum activated. They still need vacuum to go down too. Just turn off the lights before you shut off the car. If they're not going down at all check for a little peg under the steering wheel at the bottom of the dash. If it's pulled out the lights will stay up. Or is it if it's pushed in they stay up. Anyway... try that. If they just stay up all the time you probably have a vacuum problem, either with the vacuum canisters (movement accuaters) or with a vacuum line going to the canisters.
The tach might be dead but it's probably just missing the signal from the distributor. Check for a loose wire around the distributor in the engine compartment.
The temp guage will either be a bad guage, a bad sending unit or a bad connection. There's nothing else to it. Again, check for dangly wires around the sending unit and guage. If both are attached, connect a spare guage to the sending unit to test it.
That's all pretty simple stuff but it could still be quite a mystery if you have something wierd causing the malfunctions. Take a stab at it.
The tach might be dead but it's probably just missing the signal from the distributor. Check for a loose wire around the distributor in the engine compartment.
The temp guage will either be a bad guage, a bad sending unit or a bad connection. There's nothing else to it. Again, check for dangly wires around the sending unit and guage. If both are attached, connect a spare guage to the sending unit to test it.
That's all pretty simple stuff but it could still be quite a mystery if you have something wierd causing the malfunctions. Take a stab at it.
Last edited by 2002z28ssconv; Apr 29, 2005 at 11:32 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,812
Likes: 4
From: Gig Harbor Wa
Your tach is mechanical, not electrical. There is a small cable just like a speedometer cable that runs between your distributor and your tach. Most likely the gears in the distributor are stripped out. This is a common problem. You will either need to replace the gear that threads into the distributor or the main shaft of the distributor depending on which one is stripped.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Pull the tach cable off at the dist. You will see the small cable cable. ahve some one in the car and twist the cable quickly and you should see the tach move. If it does it is thegears in the dist. If not the cable or tach are broken. Most likely it is the gears in the dist, that is the most common problem. Dist removal is needed to fix the problem. An easy job for someone with experience. About an hour and 2 beer job.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 23,375
Likes: 1,065
From: Virginia USA
I'm with everyone on these suggestions but one thing that hasn't been mentioned. Our cars came with an enormous vacuum canister so that the headlights (and wiper door if equipped) could be operated a few times after the engine has been shut off. Over the years the rubber hoses and other components loose their "new" and start to bleed vacuum faster than when it came from the factory. If your lights work (up and down) with the engine running there is really nothing wrong with your system other than some minor leaks. Just try to remember to turn off your lights before you shut down or you can go through the whole system and get it leak tight.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,025
Likes: 12
From: Pleasant Grove AL
Originally Posted by eatnpunani
Hello Everyone. I just purchased my first vert (a 1972 350 base car) a couple days ago. There are a couple minor issues with it that I hope to get some direction on correcting. First, the headlights don't go into the down position when the vehicle is turned off. Secondly, the RPM needle doesn't work and the water temperature gauge is also inoperable. Are these issues that a novice can address with a Chilton manuel, or should I consult a specialist? Thanks in advance for the help.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,135
Likes: 1
i had nothing but problems with that mechanical tach drive (factory) distributer.the tach drive(shaft) is about $120.00 and every time it was repaired it blew again in a month or so...i finally found out the problem that all the so called mechanics overlooked-the thrust washer that keeps the gear from running out,a$7.00 part!!!!!,without it the gears self destruct,,,besides that and the fact that every time it rained my car died and the bearings in it were worn,,,i bought a msd distributer and 6 al box,that was over 3 yrs ago and my distributer problems went away with the origional distributer(in a box under the work bench)spent more money on that thing ,i could of bought 2 msd systems!!
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
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From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Originally Posted by eatnpunani
Hello Everyone. I just purchased my first vert (a 1972 350 base car) a couple days ago. There are a couple minor issues with it that I hope to get some direction on correcting. First, the headlights don't go into the down position when the vehicle is turned off. Secondly, the RPM needle doesn't work and the water temperature gauge is also inoperable. Are these issues that a novice can address with a Chilton manuel, or should I consult a specialist? Thanks in advance for the help.
Good luck -
