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If the bushings and through bolt and in good shape, well greased, that means no rust it is really simple to remove and install shims. You don't align it that often that you have to go to the trouble and expense of a quick adjuster.
Once you are aligned and again it is not hard if everything is in good shape to just use the shims.
The other alternative is a 6 link which uses the strut rods for minor toe adjustment.
Has anyone successfully installed this kit with the body on?
I bought Guilstrand's shim eliminator mechanism. Now, think of frame hole that serves as the pivot point for the T/A bolt--the bolt that normally has the shims nestled on it. It looks like this frame hole has to be enlarged, from its present 5/8" (?) diameter, up to about 1" (?) to allow you to install the shim eliminator mechanism.
I was planning on mounting it on a spare frame I have. I need to call Guilstrand back and verify that the frame really needs to be drilled out to this large size. The thought of making this modification to the frame has cooled me down as to the idea of the shim eliminator.
Anyhow, if I'm correct with my thought that you have to drill and enlarge the T/A bolt holes, then it appears that you either 1)have to remove the body, or 2) cut away the fiberglass body that interferes with the drilling process and then repair the fiberglass.
I’m asking this because I’m replacing the front poly bushing on the off-set t-arms with either steel or aluminum. With it all apart I just thought it would be a good time to make the change.
I’m asking this because I’m replacing the front poly bushing on the off-set t-arms with either steel or aluminum. With it all apart I just thought it would be a good time to make the change.
Both steel and aluminum are going to make for a very noisie ride???? With the poly to dampen the sound alot more rattles will be herd.