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Header studs again..need suggestions

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Old May 3, 2005 | 06:02 PM
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Default Header studs again..need suggestions

Well i'm back at it again with another header leak! I finally got my ARP header studs to work...question, do you guys use locktite? anti-seize? or Copper RTV when screwing the studs into the heads? whats the best way to seal them?? I remember Gkull mentioning something he did and never had to re-tighten them? thanks.
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Old May 3, 2005 | 07:12 PM
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Stage 8 bolts, install them right and they stay tight.
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Old May 3, 2005 | 08:36 PM
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I would use antisieze on aluminum heads. I have a question for you, are these the ARP studs part#100-1412 ? I bought a set and without taking them out of the package I could see the nuts were going to be too big to clear the headers, did you get smaller nuts or somethng or did the nuts that came with the package work with your headers ?
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Old May 4, 2005 | 12:39 AM
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Motorhead, those are the same studs I bought. Yes they are indeed way too big to just go on with no problems. I had to ding alittle around my primaries to get them to go ..but I have 1 5/8" primaries. Aren't you running Hookers? or 1 7/8" primaries?? if so, they'll never work..theres a different pn# for the studs that clear for the bigger primaries.
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Old May 4, 2005 | 02:31 AM
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You have to get the universal small nut fine thread. I didn't intend to take them out so I locktighted them in. Then I put a dab of Permatex red high temp on the nut to the header flange and they never come off.

Stage 8 don't work unless you have small headers Also they are junk because they have such short bolts. Very few threads for thick flange headers They should not be used with aluminum heads!

lock tight is the red running down - just spray with carb cleaner and wipe off before it dries
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Old May 4, 2005 | 08:30 AM
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I have 1 3/4 in. primaries on the Hookers, I am going to try and find an nut that is smaller and doesn't have the washer built in like the ARP nuts. I want to use the studs because my headers are on and off all the time and I don't like screwinig bolts into aluminum over and over. Now if I could just find a way to do the same thing with my fabricated valve covers...
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Old May 4, 2005 | 09:27 AM
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You can get Stage 8 locks and bolts in 1" length. Another idea is the new Breslin Split Lock bolts. I want to know if anyone has used them yet.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...h.asp&N=400431
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Old May 4, 2005 | 09:41 AM
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I've got the Stage 8s but those Breslins look a whole lot simpler to put in. No grinding parts to fit, no clips, and more room. I think the only questions are whether the inner screw would work loose and what would they be like to get out once any corrosion sets in with the cuts in the bolt.
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Old May 4, 2005 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jdmick
I've got the Stage 8s but those Breslins look a whole lot simpler to put in. No grinding parts to fit, no clips, and more room. I think the only questions are whether the inner screw would work loose and what would they be like to get out once any corrosion sets in with the cuts in the bolt.
My concern with the Breslin locks is getting the allen wrench in to turn the inner bolt with the header tubes in the way. My front and rear header tubes bend in a way that you can not get straight in access to the bolts on the inside of those tubes.
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Old May 5, 2005 | 08:26 PM
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I prefer to use bolts to attach headers, but if you prefer studs & you want them to stay, always use Loctite & NEVER use anti-seize. (Even with aluminum heads....studs are not something you want to come aloose easily).
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