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Old May 4, 2005 | 11:23 AM
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I had painted the L88 headlight on my car with a "rattle can" made of my body color then a clear coat (Dupli Color clear about 3 weeks ago). After polishing they look ok, but I think they can be nicer, so I have a question.

I am painting a friends motorcycle tank this weekend (basecaot/clear) I'm using a PPG clear (with reducer/hardner) if i where to sand the covers with 800/1000 would the paint a) react with the rattle can clear already on there and b) would it stick or just come off in sheets when dry?

Any ideas?

Nick
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Old May 4, 2005 | 12:03 PM
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I would not use a paper finer than 500 grit to allow a mechanical bond. I think the paints are compatible enough to be fine. Laquer on enamel no but enamel on enamel should work.
Jim
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Old May 4, 2005 | 12:11 PM
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I'd be willing to bet the PPG will lift the rattle can paint which is probably lacquer or straight enamel.....
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Old May 4, 2005 | 04:22 PM
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rattle can paint is almost always laquer - I'd say 100% of the time unless you found some way off the wall brand.

the good news is that PPG makes two base/clear coats - including one that will stick to laquer. They each have different initials that I can't remember. For example: RFJ and RML (these are wrong). Your paint store will be able to answer this in a second for you. If not - email me and I'll call my suppliers and answer you in 5 minutes.

Also, when you buy paint, you can ask for the instruction sheet that goes with it (PPG provides these free). It tells you EVERYTHING: sand paper grit, reducer and hardner mixing ratios, temperature and drying times, time between coats... EVERYTHING - in fine detail. Again - if your guy won't give you this let me make a call for you.

Bryan
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Old May 4, 2005 | 04:24 PM
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ps- the reason you aren't happy with your covers is that you used laquer. By definition, its shine does not last long and you have to rub it out frequently. Its the oldest school paint still available. That's why acrylic enamel became popular earlier and then base/clear, and now urethane base/clear - the shine keeps lasting longer.
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Old May 4, 2005 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by bryan27
ps- the reason you aren't happy with your covers is that you used laquer. By definition, its shine does not last long and you have to rub it out frequently. Its the oldest school paint still available. That's why acrylic enamel became popular earlier and then base/clear, and now urethane base/clear - the shine keeps lasting longer.
I'll agree lacquer has little initial gloss untill it's buffed, but reasonably cared for it will shine forever. My lacquer paint job looks as good now as it did when I painted it in 1995. IMO Lacquer gets a bad rub...pun intended

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Old May 4, 2005 | 05:46 PM
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sure it will last forever - but is simply requires more work to keep it looking nice
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Old May 4, 2005 | 07:28 PM
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bc/cc clear needs to bond with base in order for it to stick right...if your going to be shooting that clear over your rattle can painted covers..its most likely that it will peal off later on during washing or waxing...in other words..it will never stick right..Nick, your car is too nice, take those covers and get them bc/cc the right way. JMO
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Old May 4, 2005 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by bryan27
sure it will last forever - but is simply requires more work to keep it looking nice
I agree it takes more work. Every 2 or 3 years it needs a good polishing and it will look as good as though it just came from a new paint job; only $4990-$12990 less than a new paint job. Well worth the money to use lacquer.
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Old May 5, 2005 | 08:31 AM
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OK...all these responses have prompted another question.

the place that painted my car made me a "rattle can" from the paint they mixed for me (they even gave me what was left over in a gallon can).....my car is painted base coat/clear (ppg). So what type of paint is in the rattle can??

Nick
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Old May 5, 2005 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by lvrpool32
OK...all these responses have prompted another question.

the place that painted my car made me a "rattle can" from the paint they mixed for me (they even gave me what was left over in a gallon can).....my car is painted base coat/clear (ppg). So what type of paint is in the rattle can??

Nick
That's the $64 question, I would ask the painter. If it's the same type your going to use on the bike...I would strip the headlights and shoot them with your base coat at the time you're painting the tank and then blow on the clearcoat, check the manufactures recoat timetable
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Old May 5, 2005 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by lvrpool32
OK...all these responses have prompted another question.

the place that painted my car made me a "rattle can" from the paint they mixed for me (they even gave me what was left over in a gallon can).....my car is painted base coat/clear (ppg). So what type of paint is in the rattle can??

Nick
Most likely its a single stage urethane or enamel....I still wouldn't recommend painting PPG clear coat on it. Might want to talk to your painter about it and find out for sure.
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Old May 9, 2005 | 09:10 AM
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PPG also makes a clearcoat for acrylic enamel........
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Old May 9, 2005 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Redshark6974
Most likely its a single stage urethane or enamel....I still wouldn't recommend painting PPG clear coat on it. Might want to talk to your painter about it and find out for sure.
Well if it's not going to have the hardener in it thats for sure!
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Old May 9, 2005 | 02:21 PM
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if possible, i would strip it and just start new.... might take a day or two more but atleast you are not taking a chance......
b
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Old May 9, 2005 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by lvrpool32
OK...all these responses have prompted another question.

the place that painted my car made me a "rattle can" from the paint they mixed for me (they even gave me what was left over in a gallon can).....my car is painted base coat/clear (ppg). So what type of paint is in the rattle can??

Nick
More than likely nowadays, your paint is probably a urethane base. Your paint is PPG, so does your paint # start out with DBU???? I would sand off all of the rattle can clear (all of it, not most of it), re-dust the base coat again, and then clear with the PPG clear. Use 600 grit sand paper, any more grit is hard to cover the sand scratches, and any less grit will have inadequate adhesion.

Last edited by dags; May 9, 2005 at 04:30 PM.
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Old May 9, 2005 | 04:08 PM
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there are those three magic initials that I spoke about earlier...
(DBU)
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