I'm working on the frame this summer and besides the typical things I was wondering what else you would do to stiffen up the frame for a car that will be going around corners not just in a straight line. I already am planning on seam welding and boxing in the front (although further instruction on those would be greatly appreciated also).

 

If you really want a rigid frame then you need a roll cage. It really stiffens the frame but be prepared for increased interior noise. The cage transmits every little sound to the interior.

 

The Corvette section of an old "Chevy Power Book" could prove helpful....

Go here. Look for the link "Chevy Power Book on Corvette" about 1/3rd of the way down the page.

 

The Power Book will guide you well.
Here are a couple pics of the gussets I did.
I only reinforced the lower control arm brackets and frame horns.
Per Norval's suggestion, I added a gusset strap at the front of
the CA bracket to the horn. I didn't box the horn in fully - only a 2" piece.
Ignore my jack plate ... added for my jacking convenience.

I would also consider reinforcing the front of the rear kick-up.
My 75 cracked after rusting and then stress.

http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_02.jpg
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_04.jpg

http://web.archive.org/web/200311161...me_drivers.JPG

For some step-by-step ... start here and change the number in the link
from 01 to 02, 03, .... 09

http://nhvette.homeunix.com/ftp/in/v..._gusset_01.jpg

"09" shows the area behind the lower comtrol arm bracket front bolts
that rusts out and causes the front crossmember to tear apart.

 

Power service manual!!

I built the boxes for the front frame horns today. I'll post pics this weekend. I made some L shaped pieces from 6"x6"x 0.125 plate and trimed to fit with the plasma cutter. I still need to do the horns to the front cross member bracing.

I needed to get these done so that I could finish points 11,12,13,and 14 of my 14 point roll cage.

I also fixed a cracked driver side motormount weld and a cracked transmission mount weld on the passengers side that I discovered today.

 

I did everything, I boxed the frame horns, gusseted them, gusseted the lower control arm mounts, welded the seams on the frame (not finished there, still have a couple more to do), welded up some nasty factory holes in the frame (especially the big one on the drivers side, it's for access to those 2 mounting plates that hold the power steering ram outer bracket in place)

A plasma cutter..now there's something that I also need Do you have pics of what you did and especially of the cage???

 

I actually thought I was all done with my frame when I posted the same question on this forum...and I'm still welding

The Chevy power book plus already listed replies should cover your needs. In addition, I also had discussions with forum members about:

- If you keep the original Trailing arms, seamweld those as well and make sure that this whole kickup area of the frame is strong enough. I replaced my thinning (rusty) metal with much thicker gauge material. You can also move the emergency cable bracket from the outside of the T-arm to the top (more tire clearance)

- If you keep the original A-arms, strengthen (weld) the area for the anti-sway bar seats better to the rest of the A-arm. I believe this is in the power manual as well.

- Now for a more controversial issue: I have been in touch with people that ultimately filled their whole frame with an automotive foam similar to what ITW foamseal offered. They might have discontinued it by now as I couldn't find it on their web site anymore. Anyway, PROs of this approach are: Stiffens full frame with very little added weight. People I spoke to were very happy and could really feel the difference plus they think it made everything a lot quieter. CONs: Some fear that moisture might be trapped by the foam, which could lead to rust. I painted my frame inside and out with POR so am not too worried. Also, I assume you can't do a lot of welding once your whole frame is filled with this stuff.
Either way, this is nothing like "Great Stuff" - it's especially engineered for the auto industry. I'm still making up my own mind to do this or not.

Good luck!

 

Don't forget the front upper control arm brace across the front of the engine. VB&P sell 'em, but it wouldn't be hard to fab...

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/edd.../finished4.jpg

Hans

 

Plasma cutter is VERY handy and

I'm working on the car this weekend... see my corvette photos I have some cage photos there... If you want more detail I can take more pics.

I should tell you that this is a customized S&W kit I sent them drawings of the outer dimensions in 3d to get the top hoop and dash hoop that I wanted since i have a full custom interior... I pushed the tubing out as far as could and still be able to finish weld.

I should finish up the welding this time around.

 

I saw your pics before, nice work there.

 

just an FYI now that you have that huge square plate welded to the bottom of you front crossmember you cant run the performance plus suspension kit if you ever decide to go that route.