Need some help from people who've done it already. How long does it take? Any tricks I should know about? How about driveshaft length, did you need to cut it? Total cost?

I've tried to read up as best I could, here's the parts list I've come up with (feel free to add):

BTO Level 2 200-4R
TV made EZ
locking 1800 stall converter
shifter adapter
brake unlock system
new trans yoke
new speedo gear
dust shield
dipstick

 

What is your old trans? A TH350 or TH400? That is how you can tell if you need to cut your driveshaft or not. I needed to shorten mine when I swapped my Th350 with a 700r4 but I think a 200R4 is the same length as a TH350.

 

Oops, sorry. It's a TH400 with L48. I'm also starting to realize I don't know my rear end ratio, any quick way to find out?

 

http://marylandperformance.com/calculator.html

scroll to the bottom of that page.

 

Either that or jack up the back of the vette and look to see what is stamped on the differential. If you can read the letters then tell the forum and we can give you an answer, or if you cant read that, put it in neutral and mark the drive shaft and see how many times it goes around while someone else rotates the tire around one complete rotation. If its a 3.55 for instance then the driveshaft should rotate alittle more than 3 and a half times for one tire rotation.

 

I replaced my TH400 with the 2004R from BTO. It bolts right up without any changes to the trans mount or driveshaft. You will need a different yoke and the front U-jiont because there are different. Both are standard GM parts from any parts store. Make sure you test fit the dip stick tube before you put the trans in the car. It doesn't fit right out of the box. You will need to bend it a little to match up with the hole in the bell housing. trans swap
It was one of the best upgrades I have done. My car went from 11mpg to about 16mpg and from 3300rpm's at 70 to about 2200rpm's.

 

It is a bolt on swap... The tranny uses the same driveshaft yoke as the TH350 (27 spline) and also the same driveshaft length as the TH350 and TH400.
The way my TV cable setup worked best was when I adjusted it so that it is completely pulled out at WOT. (Without blocking WOT)
I went with the stock dipstick and it was a pain to get it in. Go with the Lokar dipstick which makes it A LOT easier...

 

It is a bolt on swap... The tranny uses the same driveshaft yoke as the TH350 (27 spline) and also the same driveshaft length as the TH350 and TH400.
The way my TV cable setup worked best was when I adjusted it so that it is completely pulled out at WOT. (Without blocking WOT)
I went with the stock dipstick and it was a pain to get it in. Go with the Lokar dipstick which makes it A LOT easier...
You might also have to change the tranny cooling lines if you switched from a TH400 because the cooling ports on the 200R4 are smaller than on the TH400...

 

Go for it! The 200-4R is a very good choice -- I've had mine for 3 years, and it's the best thing to have...especially on the freeway.

 

i did the 700r4 and used a 2500 stall speed converter my 1400 stall speed converter was way too tight and resulted in 500 rpm differerence from "park to in gear" , the 2500 stall speed gives me a 200rpm difference.... a stall speed of 1800 may be too low...

 

I went with a 2200rpm converter & it's perfect for the way I drive (drag strips are out for me with a 2.87 rear end!). Apparently the stock C3 converter is an 1800 stall. In normal driving I can't tell the difference between the stock one & the 2200 one. The only time I notice is when giving it some from the lights, or when parked up on a hill covered in soft sand (C3's ain't too hot for off road use ),
I wrote a post after my swap (something like "200-4r lessons learned") which should be in the archives. The dipstick was a pita. I found it easier to fit the tube with the trans bolted to the motor but with the rear supported on a jack. By adjusting the height of it you should be able to wiggle the tube into place. MAKE SURE that you test fit the tube to the trans prior to installation & make sure that the mounting hole in the tab lines up with the housing bolt hole. Having to line it up once the trans is in the car is nearly impossible (I was almost at the point of taking it all back out).
The job can be done in a day if you've done it before, but a reckon a good weekend should have it swapped in & set up.
If you've got a 168 tooth flexplate don't bother getting the dust cover as it won't fit.
The 2 bolts at the top that hold the trans to the motor can be a pig to get to. What I did was to drop down the rear of the trans (on both removal & installation) & got to them by joining a couple of 10" socket extension bars together & going at them from the very rear of the trans (so that the socket wrench is behind the trans & the extension bars & socket run along the top of the trans.
My driveshaft didn't need the length altering (but mine had a TH350 in it (it's a good time to replace the UJ's). My '81 needed a custom x-member but everything I've read says that the stock one used with the Th400 will be fine.
I didn't bother removing the dizzy as It would have just made the job take longer. I removed the x-member with a jack under the rear of the trans & then slowly lowered the jack in small steps until the dizzy was as close to the firewall as I dared go. Then I raised the jack very slightly & wedged some large blocks of wood under the rear of the engine. The jack can be removed & the blocks will stop the engine tilting back enough to crush the dizzy against the firewall.
Apart from that, just follow the destructions supplied.
Once it's in and running you'll wonder how you managed without one on the highway

 

Dizzy... Dizzy..

*light goes on*..

Distributor!!!

I love reading threads about this, cuz I'm hoping to do this in my 81 within the next year or so.

I didn't realize that the x-member needed to be changed in the 81. Good to know!

Thanks!!
Dan

 

Yep....Olivier's 200R4 trans works great! Not a problem at all. Wait....wasn't there a thread.....

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1070588

Nahhhh...that wasn't Olivier and we all didn't all tell him to install a Turbo 400. Musta been someone else

Dep

 

Don't get the torque converter inspection cover, it doesn't fit. Also, if you get the custom crossmember from BTO be prepared to modify because it doesn't fit either. The basic shape of it is nice, but it needs some modifications to make it fit. You will need to make some new cooler lines, which is no big deal, and do a little bit of wiring to get the converter lockup to work (directions on wiring are well written with great pics and easy to follow....they come with the wiring kit) and to get the temp gauge installed. Other than that there's really nothing to it. It's a bolt in installation. Follow BTO's instructions and don't be afraid to give Steve a call with questions and you'll be fine. Steve at BTO is a fabulous customer service contact.


-Justin

 

The TH400 is a great overdrive tranny, right Dep?

 

Nor did I until the trans was in place I got royally shafted by UPS/FEDX to fly a custom one over (Shafted = English term for having money taken from one's person that one would rather not spend, or, being ripped off as a complete sucker).
Justin is right, it will need some minor modifications. From reading various posts here it looks as if the C3 x-members in earlier cars were slighly different at the ends to the '81 (don't know about the 80). The custom x-members are made for all years, so the '81 has fitment problems. They're easy to sort though. If you look at the x-member you'll see it's fixed to the frame at each end by a couple of bolts going up into the frame & a long bolt & nut running horizontally between some ears. It's the ears that are the problem on the BTO x-member. They don't quite line up with the ones on the '81, so the holes need to be "lengthened". Once that's done (I used a file) you'll put the bolt through & tighten up the nut & the ears will then start to collapse as there's nothing between them (big ears? Nothing between them? This is sounding like one of our politicians ). I got some round bar & cut it so that it was very slightly longer than the distance between the ears, drilled a hole down the centre & then carefully wedged it in place between the ears. You have to make it slightly over length as there's no way of holding it in place once the x-member is in position (or there may be, but it'll be very awkward). And that was it. Easy.
One other thing, the paint on the x-member was rubbish. I got mine powder coated prior to fitting (shame I didn't check that ALL the bolts fitted before getting it powder coated ). The cusom x-member is lighter than the stock one & also allows true duals to be fitted ie they can both run straight back, no crossing to the p.side required. Splendid

******************************
Something missing from the installation list is a pressure guage. well worth getting as it makes setting up the TV cable so much easier.
Also, as Justin said, a temp guage & sender is a worthwhile investment. Mine scared the pants off me! The temps were getting far too hot when in the lower gears, so another thing you may need is a SMALL trans cooler (mine is 19000GVM and the temps are now a bit on the low side). A trans fluid cooler, when combined with the stock rad, may even make your coolant temps drop to your stat rating. Mine did just that, but nobody seems to believe me!

 

Just did the 200r4 swap on my 80 and I love it. The only thing I used from Bowtie was the shifter detent plates and the crossmember.
UkPaul is right you will need to make a few adjustments but no biggie.
I did have to re route my exhaust as it would'nt clear the crossmember so don't be surprised if this happens to you.
Best Mod I have done to my car.

Kona

 

I setup the TV cable without a pressure gauge.. I'm pretty sure that you can't go wrong to set it up so that the cable is fully pulled out at WOT. You want the highest possible line pressure at WOT and setting it up that way should accomplish that..

 

Overdrive??? What's that? I remember old cars from the 50s with overdrive on stick shift. I ain't installing anything METRIC in my SAE car

Dep
P.S. Buying a Corvette for economy is like buying a Chevette for performance!!!

 

Thanks, everyone. Now I'm REALLY sold on doing it. Some have been saying the dust cover doesn't work? Did you use the old one or new GM part?

I'm gauging about $2000 for everything, is that about right?