Pedal swap, a very unexpected problem????
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: swansea ma
Pedal swap, a very unexpected problem????
So today I ventured into the sinister pedal swap on the way to my T5. It was going very well, had it apart, swapped the pedals into the original bracket and installed the clutch master cylinder all within about 2 hours.
The problem that I am having is that once I put it back together and went to connect the rod from the brake booster, it is short by about an inch? I had taken the power booster out entirely to get to the clutch master cylinder hole.
I double checked everything that it is all in the same postion as before. Any thoughts?
You can see that with the pin (dril bit) in it, is already down about 1.5 inches, and when I push on it it will only go down about an inch.
The problem that I am having is that once I put it back together and went to connect the rod from the brake booster, it is short by about an inch? I had taken the power booster out entirely to get to the clutch master cylinder hole.
I double checked everything that it is all in the same postion as before. Any thoughts?
You can see that with the pin (dril bit) in it, is already down about 1.5 inches, and when I push on it it will only go down about an inch.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 18,126
Likes: 174
From: WI
I hope that works out for you....................joebio,joebio why is your name familiar to me??? OH yea your the scammer who "said' he was sending a check for a pedal assembly then after two weeks asked if I shipped yet when YOU NEVER SENT THE MONEY AT ALL........actually I DON`T hope that works out for you............................. 
...redvetracr
...redvetracr
Last edited by redvetracr; May 5, 2005 at 06:46 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
Did you check to see if the original brake and the replacement brake pedal assembly was the same? I don't know why but the pedal throw might be different or the rod to the booster different. Did you replace the entire bracket or just the pedals? Did you check to see if anything came out of the booster? As you might guess I am fishing here, but theses are places to start. I have made these types of changes but not on a Vette yet. Keep us posted.
Bernie
Bernie
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: swansea ma
Redvetracr, I am going to send you a PM, I think we miscommunicated on that transaction, if I offended you, or made you think I was scamming you, I apalogize, I would like to make it right.
Bernie the pedals are the same I am wondering if I could have done somthing booster, I am thinking that anyway.
I am wondering if anyone knows what the measurement from the base of the booster to the end of the rod.
Bernie the pedals are the same I am wondering if I could have done somthing booster, I am thinking that anyway.
I am wondering if anyone knows what the measurement from the base of the booster to the end of the rod.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by turtlevette
you got the new pedals installed in 2 hours?
Everyone keeps saying what huge amount of work this is. Did you have to mess with your steering column?
Everyone keeps saying what huge amount of work this is. Did you have to mess with your steering column?
The swap can't be done without removing the column but really that is very simple.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: swansea ma
Yes about 2 hours, I haven't put it back together yet, I took everything out, the center console, dash, guages speedo etc. steering column. The 10 oclock bolt and 2 oclock looked rough, so I ran down to sears (2 minutes away) and bought a swivel with about 18 inches of extensions it was pretty easy. The hardest part was propping the assembly up there and starting teh bolts in the wiper area.
Norvell, the master cylinder from the truck was perfect. My 80 didn't have a gromet bu there was a hole in the metal firewall, I just drille out the fiberglass and 2 bolt holes. For anyone else wondering the chevy truck clutch master cylinder fits even with power brakes!
Now I am thinking I am going to have to pick up a new power booster, could I have jammed that one in there?
Norvell, the master cylinder from the truck was perfect. My 80 didn't have a gromet bu there was a hole in the metal firewall, I just drille out the fiberglass and 2 bolt holes. For anyone else wondering the chevy truck clutch master cylinder fits even with power brakes!
Now I am thinking I am going to have to pick up a new power booster, could I have jammed that one in there?
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by DJ Dep
I guess I'm lucky that I will already have the column pulled for a T&T installation, so the pedal swap shouldn't be that bad.
Dep
Dep
I still say swapping the pedals is the hardest part of the swap.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
From: spring city pa
A 1/4 inch drive air ratchet with a long extension , deep socket, and universal is the trick to getting the bolts out quickly. Make a couple of wraps around the universal with a bit of electrical tape ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, it sorta makes the socket easier to aim . You can break the bolts loose by operating the air ratchet a turn or two by hand until the nuts are loose enough for the air tool to work .
Geo
Geo
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,714
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From: Silver City NM
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Norval: Are you talking about the bolts that hold the bracket assy to the dashboard??? Can't I remove the pedals without taking the support bracket off?? That's how it says to do it in the shop manual.
Dep
Dep
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
From: spring city pa
Dep , last year I swapped out my 700r for a tko and did the pedals .I purchased a used set from a member here and did a general blasting job to clean them up a bit while on the bench , I then painted and replaced the nylon bushings etc . Overall I would recommend removing the assy and then rebuliding the assy . The torque spring could be a bugger to reinstall while under the dash . Just my .02 , hope this helps you a bit
GEO
GEO
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by DJ Dep
Norval: Are you talking about the bolts that hold the bracket assy to the dashboard??? Can't I remove the pedals without taking the support bracket off?? That's how it says to do it in the shop manual.
Dep
Dep
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 6
From: Silver City NM
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
You might be right. I was doing more then one job at the time and might have gotten the 2 confused. There are 10 bolts holding the assembly in. 4 in the windshield linkage area, 2 under the steering column.
Dep
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 154
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From: NJ
There was someone on either this forum or corvette action center who added a clutch pedal to the existing pedal assembly. He had to cut the brake pedal (width) but other than that it appeared to be an easier swap. I can't find the thread, maybe someone else has seen it.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,891
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From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Originally Posted by Joebio
Hey guys, any thoughts I my booster issue????
I went through a similar problem when I installed a new brake booster. Once hooked up the pedal was much lower than before. I checked the assembly manual and it actually gives a measurement from the slanted portion of the floor to the bottom of the pedal. After the new booster was installed, the measurement I took was exactly the same as the dimension in the manual. So I left it and adjusted the clutch pedal to lower it. Now my pedals kind of step down in height from the firewall. The clutch is out he farthest and the gas the closest.
My suggestion is to consult the assembly manual for your car and measure. The other concern is, if you can give the full length of travel necessary to apply full brake pressure.
If you need to add distance to the booster rod, you can get a long nut and a short piece of threaded rod and make a short extension. If possible, I would try to butt the clevis and the booster rod to the long nut so no stress is put on the threaded rod.