I am planning on delving into my first engine pull and was looking for some advice. I looked around on some of the tech articles and was surprised that someone has not written one on this subject. Sure, some of the parts for removal are obvious but some are not. It would be nice to have a little documentation

 

As a side note, an instructional video would be cool to have...anybody know if such a video exists?

 

You don't need no stinkin' manual.

IMO if you're mechanically inclined, an engine disconnect & removal is self-evident and a very simple procedure especially if you break it down into logical sub-systems and their disconnect (i.e. cooling, electrical, exhaust, A/C, etc., etc.).

Manuals are for making sure the code in the software application you're developing has the proper syntax & form. Videos are for identifying, learning and mastering the mechanics of a golf swing. I know I've done both but pulling an engine is not rocket science.

Have faith & confidence, take your time, go step by step & just do it. You're bound to face some difficulties & make mistakes but it will be most rewarding and pay off in the long run.

Also, you always have the Forum community to help!

 

Try the Forum Search feature. There's been several postings.

I bought an engine hoist from Harbor Freight. Cost $179. The price of rental hoists was such that buying this one was a good deal. Buy an engine stand -- you need somewhere to put the engine when it's out. Air powered tools are a great luxury. They really speed up the project. Get the AIM manual and look at how the transmission is mounted to the frame, etc. Laying on your back under the car is not a good time to start learning from scratch.

Most of the bolts are 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16. Get several sockets, wrenches, etc of these dimensions. By now, I have three or four sets of all combinations. This means I don't have to spend a lot of time looking for the correct socket.

Also, be careful taking things out. It's so easy to remove things a few weeks later you won't know where they go. If you want to maintain the original appearance of the car, try to properly mark and save all the original bolts in little marked plastic bags. (If you replace with grade 8 bolts, you need to save the original so you buy the correct replacements.) This really slows down engine removal, but it's best in the long run. Also mark all of the vacuum hoses, etc. Take pictures. Digital cameras are a good idea since you immediately know if you've got a good pricture. Once again..get an AIM manual.

I think the best way to remove the engine is to remove the complete engine/bellhousing/transmission stack. You will have to remove the radiator. (If you have a BB, it may be a chore getting the shroud off. You may have to loosen the radiator frame, etc.) On manual C3's the transmission shifter stays in the car...just undo the shift levers where they mount to the transmission. To remove the engine/bellhousing/transmission stack you need a frame hoist with a tilt bar. Amazingly enough the entire engine/bellhousing/transmission stack is only held in with four bolts!! Once you get all of the peripheral stuff removed you only need to take out four bolts...two motor mounts and two transmission mount bolts. With these four bolts out, move the engine slightly forward, tilt the engine up with the transmission down. Your tilt bar will enable you to get this to about 40 degrees and this should enable you the pull the entire thing out over the nose of the car. When you pull the engine out the car will start to move up as you unload the front springs. Also, removing the engine is difficult if you don't remove the big grounding strap that goes from the engine to the frame.

That's just an outline. I've removed three engines from Corvette C3's. With a early C3 with no air conditioning, no smog equipment and sidepipes, it's pretty easy to get the engine out.

 

Something to keep in mind: the legs on some engine hoists are too wide and the nose of Shark too long for the hoist to roll under the car from the front. I came in from the right side with the hoist when I rebult the engine in my '68.

 

Definately over the side. I usually don't even pull the hood,but this time I had a bell housing bolt that refused to come out and I had to pull the tranny and all as one unit.

 

Ya know, it always sound simple to those that know what they are doing. If you're a newbie like me, it can be a daunting task to remove an engine. Without detailed instructions, I'm afraid of doing the wrong thing or not being able to get it back together again.

I'm in the process of doing some upgrades to my engine, but I found someone very knowledgable to watch over me. I may decide to remove the engine, but not before I get a lot more experience.

 

heres my advice buy a digital camera and photograph everything.....you can use the "photo shop" to add narrative to your pictures describing where wires go etc....label everything....put bolts back, keep a clean shop ....use lots of baggies for parts, leave nothing out on a work bench....buy david vizards book on how to rebuild a SBC it tells you everthing you need to know.....good luck

 

all the above ...AND...if you decide to paint the engine bay. make sure you cover over the masking tape that you use to write notes on wires etc.i forgot this step and it added a long time to the rebuild, guessing where things went.

 

Anyone have a copy of David Vizard's book they want to get rid of?

 

So you can pull the engine & trans from the side without removing the hood???

 

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....well i can't imagine why you would leave it on. it helps to have access to all parts of the engine.

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"Eastwood" sells a DVD that's 3 hours in length and details nicely the removal, rebuild and re-install, etc. Also covers tools needed and the machining process. All this on a small block chevy. $40. I've watched it a couple of times now and it seems to cover everything.

 

I'd rather R&R and engine that work on the center console! And I removed my first motor just this past December. That was helping Olivier take the 383 out of his 68. I bought that motor from him, took it home, removed my L48, installed the 383, drove it for a few months, decided I wanted to save that motor for a race chassis, took the 383 back out and reinstalled the L48. How's that for a run-on sentence!


Here's what to do:
Remove hood.

Disconnect battery cable.

Disconnect hoses and drain coolant. Books say to remove radiator, but I left it in last time without a problem. If you have the stock shroud you need to remove that. Same with mechanical fan, water pump can stay on.

remove (if you have them) Alt, P/S pump (lay on side, don't disconnect hoses) and A/C compressor (same as P/S, don't disconnect).

Disconnect starter wires. I've left my starter on the motor last time I pulled the motor. installed it on the new motor before I dropped it in.

Pull distributor out. disconnect any wires, label them with masking tape so you know what to plug into where. Do same with vacuum hoses.
Disconnect fuel pump and block the lines running from the tank so they don't empty out on ya.

Disconnect exhaust system. It makes it easier for reinstall if you have headers to remove them completely.

Disconnect the engine ground strap and any other wires or hoses. Don't forget accelerator cable and kickdown cable for A/T. Also Oil pressure sender wire and temp sender wires. If you have A/C there might be a throttle solenoid wire too. Shouldn't be many left at this point.

not sure about manual tranny but here's what you have to do for A/T: unbolt 3 torque converter bolts. You'll probably have to remove the plastic guard first. Get a rubber shock cord (like a bungee) and hook onto the converter where the bolt go through and run the other end to the rear of the tranny. You want to hold in the converter. I stuck a short angled prybar in the converter bolt standoffs and used vicegrips to hold it to the tranny housing.

get a floorjack under the front of tranny to support it.

Undo the bell housing bolts. think there are 6 total.

hook up the engine hoist. I go in from the passenger side and remove the RF wheel. Attached the chains or leveller (makes the job easier) to the intake manifold bolts, one bolt in from the ends, not the furthest ones near the ends.

Undo the motor mounts. Just pull the long bolt out and leave the mounts bolted to the block.

If you have an A/T tranny, check for cooling lines in clips bolted to engine oil pan. You can leave the cooling lines attached, just unbolt the clip.

remove the engine oil dipstick. just yank it out with pliers.

At this point you can try to raise the motor a little. If you can get a prybar between the bell housing and block it makes it easier to separate the 2 pieces to free the engine. Be careful not to pull the tranny up so high you start smooshing the tunnel.

Sometime the two separate easier if you try tilting the front of the motor up with the leveller and adjusting the height of the transmission with the jack that's under it.

once they are free, the motor will need to come forward just a little and you can raise it up over the fender, making sure as you're doing it that nothing else has been left connected.

Carefully wheel the lift away from the car.

Last time I did my motor swap I started Friday night, worked much of Saturday and Sunday, with breaks for meals and naps. I had the motor running by Sunday afternoon and back on the road after work on Monday.

If you're swapping motors, it's the little stuff that takes time, not the motor install or removal itself.

anyone please add to this anything I forgot. this was striclty all by memory. Especially those of you with manal trannies, I don't have one.

 

Thanks for the tips that have been shared so far. I do in fact have a 4speed so if anyone knows any differences there to be noted please share them..

 

Just put my new engine (block) in today. I used some borrowed equipment, chain hoist and trolly. My garage did not have an extra layer of block, as some of my neighbors do, so I had to improvise to get the old out and the new in, as I was lifting from the main I-beam in the garage.

With a standard height garage - 7 ft. - using my set up, I was able to get the old out to the side by using a chain bolted to the bottom bellhousing bolt and the front botton engine bolt. It was close but it worked. I had removed the heads from the engine and removed the 4-speed.

Installation of the block assembly with the bellhousing and transmission attached, required a pair of U-Haul furniture dollies under the A-Frames, with the tires removed, to lower the front end, as there was no way Power Train assembly would go in from the side, had to go in from the front. Installation required a lift/tilt bar from Advance Auto.
Once everything was hooked up, I had a friend come over to help me move the the 'vette back and forth to get the assembly in. The tilt/ lift bar was invaluable. Engine was in and bolted to the engine mounts within 20 minutes. We then spent 1 1/2 hours drinking beer and bench racing.

All in all, a good afternoons work. If the wife leaves me alone, I should be running within 2 weeks.

 

Everyone else pretty much covered all the steps. I dropped my radiator support to give my self a little more room. I also pulled the transmission with the engine because it was easier to do them together. I have a 4 speed and that trans is smaller than an auto. Double check to make sure you disconnected all the lines you do not want to find one after you started to pull. I managed to do mine by myself on weekend.

 

I am going to be starting an engine removal how-to-with-pictures post here in about 5 minutes. Maybe this will help all who are lost. It will not list EVERY hose and wire but hopefully darn close. I am trying to shrink my images now to make them manageable. Also goint to set up a website for my whole swap process. Please stand by

Here ya go, all started

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1089923