yesterday I posted that since rebuilding the front end, and bleeding brakes the right rear caliper was leaking. I had a minor issue with an upper control arm, that Van Steel replaced too(thanks Dan). Also from another forum member, I had 8" rear spring bolts waiting installation. Well today was a busy day!

I did find a place that had calipers in stock for the rear. Got a new master while I was at it (already did front calipers last year). I installed the longer spring bolts while I was back there.

Then I switched to the front end, and re-replaced that upper control arm that wouldn't take a grease zerk in the ball joint. VanSteel shipped me a replacement right out, and I put it on - along with new sway bar links.

The sway bar links are quite a bit shorter than stock ones - guess it goes well with the lower springs (#550) and all. It's good and tight up front now!

When I replaced the Master Cylinder, and was amazed that it took LOTs of torque to get the rear brake line to seal. In fact I was through with the brakes completely and after wiping everything down, I saw it leaking. I tightened it a quarter turn, and it still leaked... under hard pedal pressure. I gave it another quarter turn and it's OK for now. I'll put some miles on her and see if it stays dry.

It took a quart and half of brake fluid to get any pedal out of it, but it is fine now. I had bench-bled the master and still had lots of trouble getting fluid to those new rear calipers. But it all eventually worked out just fine. It's got the best brake pedle it's had since I bought it.

Question on these 8" rear bolts: How little thread will be on them to lower the car? I dropped the front with the new springs, from 29 inches to 27.5 and I love it. The rear is still at 29 inches but I didn't just 'start' the nyloc nut on the new bolts, I ran it up about an inch.

Should I back them out to the end of the bolts and then drive it? I didn't replace the rear spring, just the bolts. thought it would have gone down but I guess it needs to be driven.

A project for tomorrow.

 

Wow! IT sounds like too much work for me....I need to go and swing a few.....

 

I would run that nylock nut on the rears back down to the bottom. Run it for a week then measure again. I like there to be 3/4 to 1" rake from front to rear on most cars.

 

OK that makes sense and that's the rake I'm looking for. I'd like the rear to be just a tad higher than the front.

Can that nyloc be safely backed off now, to the end of the bolt? The bolts were VPB's but not cross drilled for a cotter pin. Maybe I should double-nut it?

 

Yea it was a busy day. Does anyone know if those Nyloc nuts can be trusted to run at the end of the bolt thread to lower the car? I sure with those bolts were drilled for a cotter pin ....