How to maintain Half Shaft geometry?
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 30,183
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From: Lake Norman NC
How to maintain Half Shaft geometry?
After lowering the rear of my car, I found that the halfshafts weren't parallel anymore. Instead, they were pointing up. I then raised my car an 1" in the back to get the half shafts parallel. I'd like to know how i can bring my car down an inch, and still keep my halfshafts parallel? Is there a de arched spring VBP can make? Any suggestions? Thanks.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
The spring has nothing to do with 1/2 shaft alignment. It simply means your car is too low for the fixed housing.
How racers overcome this is by raising the housing an inch higher up . This takes a modified crossmember that allows the housing to sit up higher and a modified front mount.
How racers overcome this is by raising the housing an inch higher up . This takes a modified crossmember that allows the housing to sit up higher and a modified front mount.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by 427V8
I've heard that you can remove the rubber dushings from the diff crossmember to gain another inch.
but I imagine it would become very noisy!
but I imagine it would become very noisy!
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: Lake Norman NC
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
The spring has nothing to do with 1/2 shaft alignment. It simply means your car is too low for the fixed housing.
How racers overcome this is by raising the housing an inch higher up . This takes a modified crossmember that allows the housing to sit up higher and a modified front mount.
How racers overcome this is by raising the housing an inch higher up . This takes a modified crossmember that allows the housing to sit up higher and a modified front mount.
that doesn't sound like an easy fix..
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Redshark6974
that doesn't sound like an easy fix..If you want it right then that is the way to go.
Again springs have nothing to do with this. You could just adjust your car higher so the 1/2 shafts are parallel to the ground or put up with the increased angle on the universals.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: WI
the easy way to move the diff up in the car is to remove the rubber and plate over the hole, then your rearend crossmember bolts directly to the frame......or in the case of my car we built a new (lightweight) crossmember out of square tubing. Until you cut those two crossmembers out of a car you have no idea how much they weight.
....redvetracr
PS: I have a real nice factory crossmember that has been plated if anyone reading this is interested (e-mail DIRECT!! redvetracr@msn.com)
....redvetracr
PS: I have a real nice factory crossmember that has been plated if anyone reading this is interested (e-mail DIRECT!! redvetracr@msn.com)
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Lake Norman NC
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
To a fabricator it is easy. Pulling the rearend is the hard part, not making a knotch in the crossmember.
If you want it right then that is the way to go.
Again springs have nothing to do with this. You could just adjust your car higher so the 1/2 shafts are parallel to the ground or put up with the increased angle on the universals.
If you want it right then that is the way to go.
Again springs have nothing to do with this. You could just adjust your car higher so the 1/2 shafts are parallel to the ground or put up with the increased angle on the universals.
I had planned that on days at the track or dyno, i'd just get down and raise the bolts...takes me like 5 minutes anyways.
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Redshark6974
Thanks for info on the spring.....what would the increased angle on the universals do? especially not really getting on it, no burnouts, or such...only normal driving around town.
I had planned that on days at the track or dyno, i'd just get down and raise the bolts...takes me like 5 minutes anyways.
I had planned that on days at the track or dyno, i'd just get down and raise the bolts...takes me like 5 minutes anyways.
For normal driving it shouldn't hurt.
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 2
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
Originally Posted by redvetracr
the easy way to move the diff up in the car is to remove the rubber and plate over the hole, then your rearend crossmember bolts directly to the frame......or in the case of my car we built a new (lightweight) crossmember out of square tubing. Until you cut those two crossmembers out of a car you have no idea how much they weight.
....redvetracr
PS: I have a real nice factory crossmember that has been plated if anyone reading this is interested (e-mail DIRECT!! redvetracr@msn.com)
....redvetracr
PS: I have a real nice factory crossmember that has been plated if anyone reading this is interested (e-mail DIRECT!! redvetracr@msn.com)
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 1
From: North Bend Ohio
Originally Posted by Redshark6974
After lowering the rear of my car, I found that the halfshafts weren't parallel anymore. Instead, they were pointing up. I then raised my car an 1" in the back to get the half shafts parallel. I'd like to know how i can bring my car down an inch, and still keep my halfshafts parallel? Is there a de arched spring VBP can make? Any suggestions? Thanks.
BigBlockk
Later.....
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 30,183
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From: Lake Norman NC
Originally Posted by BigBlockk
Run tires that are two inches shorter.
BigBlockk
Later.....
BigBlockk
Later.....
I'm running a 26" tall tire right now..i don't think i want to go any shorter in diameter.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by BigBlockk
Run tires that are two inches shorter.
BigBlockk
Later.....
BigBlockk
Later.....
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 1
From: North Bend Ohio
I never said anything about it looking right but it will lower the car by 1". Personally I don't think anything under 27" diameter LOOKS right. Also, I don't think a little bit of an angle to the half shafts is a problem.
BigBlockk
Later.....
BigBlockk
Later.....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
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From: New Cumberland PA
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
If I was doing it I would knotch the crossmember. The stock crossmember is about 2 inches thick and hollow. The rearend bolts to the bottom with bolts accessed through a hole in the upper part of the crossmember. If you built a knotch in the crossmember to move the bottom of this crossmember up, a recess that the rearend sat in you would still have the rubber mount on the ends but the crossmember would sit 1 inch higher.
Will raising the differential have any adverse effect on the driveshaft? What about the strut rods? Will the bracket have to lowered?
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 2
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
Originally Posted by mandm1200
Nice easy solution. Gotta get me a welder and some steel.
Will raising the differential have any adverse effect on the driveshaft? What about the strut rods? Will the bracket have to lowered?
Will raising the differential have any adverse effect on the driveshaft? What about the strut rods? Will the bracket have to lowered?
