How to maintain Half Shaft geometry?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 0
From: largo florida
It looks liek you would need to put spacers on the strut rod bracket to keep it in its original position. Either that, or make some longer adjustable strut rods, which should be pretty easy. Coleman should have all the pieces needed.
You would also need to reset your drivetrain angles
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_...ols%20Required
You would also need to reset your drivetrain angles
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_...ols%20Required
Last edited by lostpatrolman; May 12, 2005 at 11:01 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by mandm1200
Nice easy solution. Gotta get me a welder and some steel.
Will raising the differential have any adverse effect on the driveshaft? What about the strut rods? Will the bracket have to lowered?
Will raising the differential have any adverse effect on the driveshaft? What about the strut rods? Will the bracket have to lowered?
I would still align the drivetrain with equal and opposite angles.
Hitting the tunnel would stop me from doing this
As for strut rods they are attached to the wheel and the rearend. By raising the rearend the strut rods are running at a slight angle but if it affects anything I don't know.
The big thing to stop me would be tunnel clearance and a visual inspection will tell if you have enough clearance.
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 2
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
OK, I just realised what this all means.
Rasing the diff will make zero difference to anything BUT the height of the diff and the wheel in the wheel well.
All geometry will be exactly the same including the drive shaft.
What is important is to make sure the diff stays at the same angle as it was before. And the same angle in both planes. Changing the angle of the diff WILL mess up the driveshaft angles, Remember, the angle of the front ujoint MUST be identical to that of the rear ujoint, both vertically and horizontally. If they are NOT you will get vibration.
You do NOT need to add a spacer to the camber rod mount because it is relative to the half shaft location and that relative distance does not change.
So like Norval said, the only concern is tunnel clearance.
Rasing the diff will make zero difference to anything BUT the height of the diff and the wheel in the wheel well.
All geometry will be exactly the same including the drive shaft.
What is important is to make sure the diff stays at the same angle as it was before. And the same angle in both planes. Changing the angle of the diff WILL mess up the driveshaft angles, Remember, the angle of the front ujoint MUST be identical to that of the rear ujoint, both vertically and horizontally. If they are NOT you will get vibration.
You do NOT need to add a spacer to the camber rod mount because it is relative to the half shaft location and that relative distance does not change.
So like Norval said, the only concern is tunnel clearance.
Instructor
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Santa Cruz CA
I am half-way finished raising the diff in my car. I cut the cross-member mounting pad from the frame and welded the crossmember directly to the frame. I picked up about an inch. Any more and I would have to cut the floor pan. Haven't done the front mount yet.
I ran mine lowered with half-shafts running uphill towards the wheels before and it was spooky handling. Mid-turn bumps in high speed corners would cause the rear end to step out because of the increase in toe out. All the old Vette racers raised thier diffs. Chevrolet outlined the procedure in early additions of the Chevrolet Power Book.
I ran mine lowered with half-shafts running uphill towards the wheels before and it was spooky handling. Mid-turn bumps in high speed corners would cause the rear end to step out because of the increase in toe out. All the old Vette racers raised thier diffs. Chevrolet outlined the procedure in early additions of the Chevrolet Power Book.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 30,183
Likes: 313
From: Lake Norman NC
Originally Posted by 68427
I am half-way finished raising the diff in my car. I cut the cross-member mounting pad from the frame and welded the crossmember directly to the frame. I picked up about an inch. Any more and I would have to cut the floor pan. Haven't done the front mount yet.
I ran mine lowered with half-shafts running uphill towards the wheels before and it was spooky handling. Mid-turn bumps in high speed corners would cause the rear end to step out because of the increase in toe out. All the old Vette racers raised thier diffs. Chevrolet outlined the procedure in early additions of the Chevrolet Power Book.
I ran mine lowered with half-shafts running uphill towards the wheels before and it was spooky handling. Mid-turn bumps in high speed corners would cause the rear end to step out because of the increase in toe out. All the old Vette racers raised thier diffs. Chevrolet outlined the procedure in early additions of the Chevrolet Power Book.
