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Well I finally got into the windshield frame on my '74 coupe. Trim off,
windshield out. One little hole top driver's side where the trim fits
between the door and the frame. Two eraser sized holes in the section
under the trim tag ... I'm sure to fix this stuff *right* it will need
to be cut out and replaced. Anyone care to venture a wild guess as
to the $'s I will have to lay out if someone else does it? (assuming I can
even find such a person) Thanks! heh -- just used that "search" thingy
and it looks like $4-5K IF I can find someone to work on it. Also the
roof support has some small rust throughs (or close to through) on the
rear most portion.
***EDIT***
See Images Below!
Last edited by dfseidel; May 13, 2005 at 11:37 AM.
Yeah - and the frame before dishing out any bux.
I think you could find someone to fix up the W/S frame area for
$1000 or so. $4-5k is way high. You can get an entire body for under $2k.
Pull the kick panels and #3 body mount access panels to make sure
the rocker channels are OK. If these are good, chances are the frame is mostly OK, too.
Body mount areas seem okay -- mostly loose rust on TOP of them --
particularly the #2 mounts... looking at the rocker channels around
the frame, they seem alright. The frame itself, while having pretty
heavy surface rust none of it sounds rotten when hit with a hammer.
--- Now to decide if I wanna cut my losses here or really get myself
sunk into this project
FRom the sound of it, what I would do is get it sand blasted, then go from there, I think it may be ok, as long as you paint hell out of it, and when windshield is installed BEFORE the trim is put in place,,....orient the clips and fill the entire area to overflowing with black RTV sealant.....
may want to also do a good coating under that stainless top trim....bed it all down waterproof....load it up.....
load up the areas around the fender/windshild also, I did mine over ten years ago, drive it in all kinds of weather here in Florida....and....not one damn drop of leaking, kickpanels still dry....and mine is a convertible....
but you gotta stop the leaking, sandblasting gets it down to bare metal, from there paint/primer, then RTV kills any chance the water damage....
Body mount areas seem okay -- mostly loose rust on TOP of them --
particularly the #2 mounts... looking at the rocker channels around
the frame, they seem alright. The frame itself, while having pretty
heavy surface rust none of it sounds rotten when hit with a hammer.
--- Now to decide if I wanna cut my losses here or really get myself
sunk into this project
Sounds like my car. When I started probing around the rocker channels, I thought I was going to have to replace them. After pulling the body, the rocker channels looked really bad.
However, after I wire-wheeled the rocker channels, I found that they were actually in very good shape. I have one side done and painted and it looks great.
here are some pics!
Passenger top windshield frame... not too bad.
Door jam portion of windshield frame on drivers side.
Though the top of the same doesn't look too bad -- there is a
pinhole in the upper coner where the window sits.
Here is where I started to peal back the little panel cover on the
drivers side....
And the rust under it
Last edited by dfseidel; May 13, 2005 at 11:10 AM.
dfseidel,
I have a complete cowl section from the lower winshield down to the #2 body mounts that I want to get rid of. I hate to throw it away because both sides are in great shape, but it takes up so much room. The lower w/s areas are shot, but at least you could have good body mount areas. Let me know if you want them or some pics.
Yeah - and the frame before dishing out any bux.
I think you could find someone to fix up the W/S frame area for
$1000 or so. $4-5k is way high. You can get an entire body for under $2k.
Pull the kick panels and #3 body mount access panels to make sure
the rocker channels are OK. If these are good, chances are the frame is mostly OK, too.
Good luck
Hey, I pulled the kick panels on mine and the visible area is kinda surfaced but all there. Where is the '#3' panel? Is it that skinny one that's behind the seat?
I pulled that, and other than the floorpan holes (which I already knew about), the visible area looks good on mine. Also felt between the frame and rocker, and couldn't feel any scale in there. Frame appears to be 100%.
All this, and floors and radiator support are toast. Weird!
can someone explain in detail where the panels are I would need to remove to make sure my dads 68 is ok we took the panels off where the speakers are and looked around.....also took the door sills off and I think thats what your calling "rocker panels" right?
can someone explain in detail where the panels are I would need to remove to make sure my dads 68 is ok we took the panels off where the speakers are and looked around.....also took the door sills off and I think thats what your calling "rocker panels" right?
anything else to check besides the fram overall?
The rocker channels are sandwiched between the frame and the fiberglass that's underneath your door sills. They provide the structure required for the hinge and latch posts to have a solid foundation, they also carry the #1, 2, and 3 body mounts. The only access without cutting fiberglass is behind the kick panels (sounds like you already checked there) and the access plate in the wheel wells that is held on with 4 screws. Here is what they look like out of the car (at least what's left of them): http://home.earthlink.net/~steverieb.../channels.jpeg
No, the birdcage on my 1979 is pristine. That pic was posted by a Forum member about two years ago. If I remember correctly he purchased a fixer-upper for a "good" price and found a few surprises when he removed the windshield trim. This has been said ad naseum but you have to be careful when you buy these cars!