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Pull the two wires that attach to the a/c fan motor and see if you are getting power there. One is hot when the fan is energized, the other is a ground--test both. Do this first.

 

Your fan motor is behind the inner fender well on the passenger side. I don't know how to access it easily. Maybe that is why I haven't bothered to check mine.

 

Get a 12 volt test light. Even better is to get a voltmeter.

Turn the blower switch on (with the key in the ignition position), then hook-up the ground end of your test light to the ground side of the blower where the ground wire makes contact (outboard right side). Probe the hot wire (it should be purple for a/c equipped car, orange otherwise), on the inboard side of the blower. Both wires are accessible, but not jumping right out at you.

If your light lights up, you're getting power to the blower, and your blower is most likely bad. If there's no power to the motor, then you need to start troubleshooting.

The a/c relay is off for all blower speeds except high. When you switch the blower control to high, the relay switches power from the battery directly to the blower motor. For all other speeds, the power comes from a series of resistors that limit the amount of current that the blower receives.

If all blower speeds are not working, then it's doubtful that the relay is bad. In that case, it's almost certainly either a bad connection at the blower motor, or a bad blower motor.

Good luck...

 

thats the hot terminal,the ground is a case ground, it should be a 90 degree metal clip that has the grd attached to it and a screw goes thru( the 90 deg clip) and its one of the screws that hold the blower on,this is the 14 guage wire everyone says to change to a 10 guage(he high speed wire size) which being a union electrician for 26 yrs,,i agree,,but i havent done that yeat as i wonder where there running that # 10 wire to? the frame? the grd on the battery? my engine compartment is all done for show ,so i dont want some wire running around looking like cleatis from the duke boys wired it, when i find a place to terminate it i'll hide it in the loom,,,why not up grade that blower motor to the bigger one with the larger squirrell cage? we posted all those photos a few years back .you'll have to make a spacer and get longer screws--the e/zest wat is a stove pipe cap.there 7'' in diameter and 2'' long si you'll have to trim it with tin snips to 1 1/2 '' i used a vaccume line and slit it lenghtwise for a gasket,,improved airflow,,heres a photo and i painted it black so you really gotta look for it to see it ,,a lot of guys used wood,,i thought that wasnt the right material to build it with.you can see the grd clip in the photo the hots down at the bottom ,,,,good luck carl-------

 

right its a fuse thats behind the washer bottle on the drivers side,glass fuse, in a inline fuse holder,,hidden so you'll never find it!

 

I hate rain on your parade, but you probably have not found your problem yet. Something blew the fuse, and that is your problem. Whatever blew that fuse will probably blow the next one. I would suggest that you buy a bunch of the proper sized fuses and run your heater with the fan at different speeds to see if the fuse blows. Then if it doesn't blow, turn on the ac to see if that blows the fuse. If the fuse doesn't blow, you have a wire somewhere in the circuit with the insulation chafed off that touches ground from time to time to blow the fuse. Be sure to check the wires going to your ac clutch, if you are lucky the problem wire will be out in the open where you can easily see it.

 

You may have found it. Corrosion causes resistance, raises the amperage required for the same load. Clean the fuse socket real good. It also might be a good idea to get some dielectric grease (points grease) and put it on the fuse before you plug it in to give better contact.

 

the one i was refering to is the high speed of the fan