Converter question...
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Converter question...
Went racing again today, and I've noticed that my torque converter allows me now to rev to about 2100 - 2200 RPM before the car starts moving.. Initially, the car started moving above 1500 RPM.. Is there something like a break in time for a converter before it starts to get more loose??? It was kinda tight initially, but right now, I'm pretty satisfied... The stall speed seems to be right where I need it..at 4500 RPM..
The reason why it appears in my videos as if I only have a 2-speed automatic is because the tranny shifts 1 - 2 at 5000 RPM and the RPM only drops to 4500 because of the 4500 stall speed and therefore, no RPM drop is noticeable in the videos...
I still have to do something about the transmission shift point.. I'm thinking in doing some grinding on the governor weights to change the shift point.. Maybe I should just get a different governor...
The reason why it appears in my videos as if I only have a 2-speed automatic is because the tranny shifts 1 - 2 at 5000 RPM and the RPM only drops to 4500 because of the 4500 stall speed and therefore, no RPM drop is noticeable in the videos...
I still have to do something about the transmission shift point.. I'm thinking in doing some grinding on the governor weights to change the shift point.. Maybe I should just get a different governor...
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From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Maybe you should just get a manual valve body and shift the tranny by hand. Letting the tranny shift when it wants is not the way to do it. I know you want to be consistant; but that is not where you gain consistancy.
There is no break in on a convertor. Check your fluid level when it is hot.
There is no break in on a convertor. Check your fluid level when it is hot.
Thread Starter
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by 69 N.O.X. RATT
Maybe you should just get a manual valve body and shift the tranny by hand. Letting the tranny shift when it wants is not the way to do it. I know you want to be consistant; but that is not where you gain consistancy.
There is no break in on a convertor. Check your fluid level when it is hot.
There is no break in on a convertor. Check your fluid level when it is hot.
Thread Starter
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by comp
your 1-2 shift is that low Hmmmmm a electric shift can be added also 
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I feel he is only asking about raising the shift point. There is not problem with the transmission. The governor affects the shift points, the lighter the weight the higher the shift point. 5000 is way to early for your shift. What about talking to the company that built the transmission and ask them about reducing the governor weights??
I too found that after a little while I could get more stall out of a torque converter. I found actually 2 stalls and one flash point in any torque converter. If the rpm is brought up slowly you hit the stall you are talking about. I also found that if I hit the gas much harder and quicker I could get the transmission to suddenly jump to a lot higher stall and still hold against the brakes.
Flash point is flooring it and having the motor jump to another higher flash point. My 3500 stall would move the car at 1500 easily but if pushed would go to 3200 and if flashed all the way to 4500-5000.
I also cut some of these torque converters apart and found alot of the furnaced brazed fins were tore free.
I too found that after a little while I could get more stall out of a torque converter. I found actually 2 stalls and one flash point in any torque converter. If the rpm is brought up slowly you hit the stall you are talking about. I also found that if I hit the gas much harder and quicker I could get the transmission to suddenly jump to a lot higher stall and still hold against the brakes.
Flash point is flooring it and having the motor jump to another higher flash point. My 3500 stall would move the car at 1500 easily but if pushed would go to 3200 and if flashed all the way to 4500-5000.
I also cut some of these torque converters apart and found alot of the furnaced brazed fins were tore free.
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
What about talking to the company that built the transmission and ask them about reducing the governor weights??
I too found that after a little while I could get more stall out of a torque converter. I found actually 2 stalls and one flash point in any torque converter. If the rpm is brought up slowly you hit the stall you are talking about. I also found that if I hit the gas much harder and quicker I could get the transmission to suddenly jump to a lot higher stall and still hold against the brakes.
Flash point is flooring it and having the motor jump to another higher flash point. My 3500 stall would move the car at 1500 easily but if pushed would go to 3200 and if flashed all the way to 4500-5000.
I also cut some of these torque converters apart and found alot of the furnaced brazed fins were tore free.
I also cut some of these torque converters apart and found alot of the furnaced brazed fins were tore free.
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Thread Starter
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by DJ Dep
We had this discussion already. The answer is Turbo 400. Now quit flooding the tech section with posts every time your light duty trans craps out!!! 
Dep
Dep
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From: Silver City NM
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
I doubt that the tranny will crap out anytime soon...
BTW...you could solve ALL these problems by yanking the trans and convertting to a stick. A Jerico "clutchless" transmission would allow full power shifting and would be 100% consistent.
http://www.jericoperformance.com/35....ch&clutchless4
Dep
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I'm sure that they would do that.. but they are in California and the car would be down for a couple of weeks if I'd send out my governor... I have events that I want to race...
I mean just call them, email them and ask about reducing the weight or have them send you another governor, they are cheap, fed ex a higher/lighter one and slip it in. NO down time other then changing one out.
I mean just call them, email them and ask about reducing the weight or have them send you another governor, they are cheap, fed ex a higher/lighter one and slip it in. NO down time other then changing one out.
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
I'm sure that they would do that.. but they are in California and the car would be down for a couple of weeks if I'd send out my governor... I have events that I want to race...
I mean just call them, email them and ask about reducing the weight or have them send you another governor, they are cheap, fed ex a higher/lighter one and slip it in. NO down time other then changing one out.
I mean just call them, email them and ask about reducing the weight or have them send you another governor, they are cheap, fed ex a higher/lighter one and slip it in. NO down time other then changing one out.
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From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
I'm sure that they would do that.. but they are in California and the car would be down for a couple of weeks if I'd send out my governor... I have events that I want to race...
Interesting.. I'll try to bring up the RPM's quicker to get a higher launching RPM.
interesting...
Interesting.. I'll try to bring up the RPM's quicker to get a higher launching RPM.
interesting...
Last edited by 69 N.O.X. RATT; May 15, 2005 at 01:31 PM.
Safety Car
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From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Originally Posted by DJ Dep
Just kidding you pal
BTW...you could solve ALL these problems by yanking the trans and convertting to a stick. A Jerico "clutchless" transmission would allow full power shifting and would be 100% consistent.
http://www.jericoperformance.com/35....ch&clutchless4
Dep
BTW...you could solve ALL these problems by yanking the trans and convertting to a stick. A Jerico "clutchless" transmission would allow full power shifting and would be 100% consistent.
http://www.jericoperformance.com/35....ch&clutchless4
Dep
Last edited by 69 N.O.X. RATT; May 15, 2005 at 01:34 PM.
Thread Starter
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by 69 N.O.X. RATT
HHHMmm, I remember somebody asking two or three times what the convertor flashed to??????????
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by 69 N.O.X. RATT
If you think Oliver has problems now fighting the most simple thing in the world to get down the track (a convertor car) let him mess with a multiple disk clutch set up that has to have wheel spin and clutch slippage to work right. Stick to the auto Oliver.
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From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Converter flash means when you are sitting at the light and stomp on the gas pedal the converter will jump to a certain rpm. It does not flash between shifts, only from a dead start. That is what Norval was talking about.
Get your 1-2 shift issue fixed along with the front shocks and or springs and you will run a 10 first time out. Find out what the converter flashes to and post the results.
Get your 1-2 shift issue fixed along with the front shocks and or springs and you will run a 10 first time out. Find out what the converter flashes to and post the results.
Safety Car
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From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
Planning on keeping the 200R4 for 2 seasons.. After that, I'm planning on installing a glide, a blown big block and a spool...
The glide is a good idea if you can make enough power to pull the gear. How much power? That small block will make 1000 hp if you want it to.
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by 69 N.O.X. RATT
Converter flash means when you are sitting at the light and stomp on the gas pedal the converter will jump to a certain rpm. It does not flash between shifts, only from a dead start. That is what Norval was talking about.
Get your 1-2 shift issue fixed along with the front shocks and or springs and you will run a 10 first time out. Find out what the converter flashes to and post the results.
Get your 1-2 shift issue fixed along with the front shocks and or springs and you will run a 10 first time out. Find out what the converter flashes to and post the results.