Steeroids Help Please !! 2 big questions.
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From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
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St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Steeroids Help Please !! 2 big questions.
Well we started installing the Steeroids kit on my car today. We ran into two questions that the install paperwork does not cover.
1. EDIT -- new request --- can anyone who has done this, please post a picture of the spherical bearing joint that holds the middle shaft in place. I want to see how most of you have this adjusted. Most pictures I have seen in the past showed it with one nut ran down all the way to the bearing as far as it would go, and then the bracket and then the other nut. This setup pulls the spherical bearing as far forward as possible, and I wonder if this is how everyone has it adjusted or not.
Thanks !!
2. The new parts that replace the ball joints - they are a tapered steel piece that goes into the hole on the steering knuckle's arm.
The instructions say to torque that castle nut on top to 30 lbs. Well, I did that and the tapered steel piece does not even come close to going all the way up into the hole in the arm. I still have about 1/2 to 3/4 inch left over. The other problem is at the bottom of that is a large nut with a nylon lock in it. You are supposed to torque that to 70 lbs. Well, we can't get that tight because the tapered steel piece starts spinning around and around.
Is this all the further they go up into the arm ????
1. EDIT -- new request --- can anyone who has done this, please post a picture of the spherical bearing joint that holds the middle shaft in place. I want to see how most of you have this adjusted. Most pictures I have seen in the past showed it with one nut ran down all the way to the bearing as far as it would go, and then the bracket and then the other nut. This setup pulls the spherical bearing as far forward as possible, and I wonder if this is how everyone has it adjusted or not.
Thanks !!
2. The new parts that replace the ball joints - they are a tapered steel piece that goes into the hole on the steering knuckle's arm.
The instructions say to torque that castle nut on top to 30 lbs. Well, I did that and the tapered steel piece does not even come close to going all the way up into the hole in the arm. I still have about 1/2 to 3/4 inch left over. The other problem is at the bottom of that is a large nut with a nylon lock in it. You are supposed to torque that to 70 lbs. Well, we can't get that tight because the tapered steel piece starts spinning around and around.
Is this all the further they go up into the arm ????
Last edited by BSeery; May 15, 2005 at 11:35 AM.
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SPARTAN
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Sumthin ain't right there. That tie rod end should be seating all the way into the arm.
Are the rod ends normally installed from the bottom?
Are the rod ends normally installed from the bottom?
Melting Slicks
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From: St. Charles Mo
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Bryan, I installed my Hiem tie rod end much like the stock type. It is tapered so as to form a pressed fit in the arm. It torqued up nice and tight, but to be honest, I don't remember if I used 30 ft-lbs. Probably use slightly more????. The large nylon lock nut also torqued nice and tight without spinning the tapered rod end. See phone camera pic below.
I slid the u-joint on to the steering wheel as far as I could while not interfering with the u-joint flexing operation. You have to remove the lower bracket holding the rack to install the other end. I had the same problem, but after reading the directions they had you install the u-joints before mounting the rack. Engineers don't need to read directions
Bullshark
I slid the u-joint on to the steering wheel as far as I could while not interfering with the u-joint flexing operation. You have to remove the lower bracket holding the rack to install the other end. I had the same problem, but after reading the directions they had you install the u-joints before mounting the rack. Engineers don't need to read directions
Bullshark
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From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
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St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
edit -- got those problems taken care of. Now I have some SERIOUS binding issues to work out.
Last edited by BSeery; May 15, 2005 at 04:42 AM.
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From: The Only Corvette in Gila Bend, Az.
St. Jude Donor '09
Yeah, it was a fun day, I have arc marks on my arm from the back of the alternator(it was sizzling with my sweat), and one of our C4 friends almost broke a hammer head when it came off the handle and hit him in the noggin!!!
But hey, the pizza was good, and I even got a ride in a supercharged C5....Just Damn!!!
But hey, the pizza was good, and I even got a ride in a supercharged C5....Just Damn!!!
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: texas,, at last
hi,
that all looks correct to me,
looks the same as mine and i've been driving mine most days for over a year and everything is fine,
the tapered heim joints don't go all the way,
as for the u-joints, i think i slid mine on both ends before tightening the rack into place, it gave me a bit more room for manouvere,
let me know if ya have any more questions and i'll go take some pics and even try and rack (no pun intended) my brain as to the finer details of my install,
later,
neil
that all looks correct to me,
looks the same as mine and i've been driving mine most days for over a year and everything is fine,
the tapered heim joints don't go all the way,
as for the u-joints, i think i slid mine on both ends before tightening the rack into place, it gave me a bit more room for manouvere,
let me know if ya have any more questions and i'll go take some pics and even try and rack (no pun intended) my brain as to the finer details of my install,
later,
neil
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From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
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St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Originally Posted by BSeery
edit -- got those problems taken care of. Now I have some SERIOUS binding issues to work out.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
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St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Originally Posted by Bullshark
Engineers don't need to read directions
Bullshark
Bullshark
We only had 3 people working on the car and 3-5 people around to read directions.
I will be done once I get this binding worked out.
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From: The Only Corvette in Gila Bend, Az.
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by BSeery
Yeah, your right. Read the damn directions you farging idiots.
We only had 3 people working on the car and 3-5 people around to read directions.
We only had 3 people working on the car and 3-5 people around to read directions.
The damn instructions had to many words, and not enough damn pictures...Plus the pictures it did have were almost useless, because when your under the car looking at them they look all upside down and bass ackwards.
Well to me they did anyway.
Le Mans Master
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From: Coming home from Luckenbach Texas
You need to loosen the steering column. 2 bolts under the dash, and a bracket at the firewall. You'll need to completely remove the firewall bracket. Pull the column all the way back and move the bottom of the column towards the engine (if I recall correctly). Tighten everything down. Make sure the heim joint on the column isn't pulling everything in the wrong direction,
That should do it...
That should do it...
Thread Starter
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From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
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St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Originally Posted by page62
You need to loosen the steering column. 2 bolts under the dash, and a bracket at the firewall. You'll need to completely remove the firewall bracket. Pull the column all the way back and move the bottom of the column towards the engine (if I recall correctly). Tighten everything down. Make sure the heim joint on the column isn't pulling everything in the wrong direction,
That should do it...
That should do it...
Thanks !!
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
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St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Originally Posted by ddecart
Sumthin ain't right there. That tie rod end should be seating all the way into the arm.
Are the rod ends normally installed from the bottom?
Are the rod ends normally installed from the bottom?
Racer
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Mesa AZ
Bryan, are you having binding issues at the ujoints?? I have had a hard time getting it just right. It is pretty good now after pulling the whole column back into the car and pushing it all the way toward the engine. I'm thinkin of cutting 3/4" or so off the steering column shaft. I wonder how hard that would be? I'm thinkin of makin the run to Showlow this week, how many c-3s do you expect to show?? I have never participated in these types of events before.
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Originally Posted by BSeery
Yeah, your right. Read the damn directions you farging idiots.
We only had 3 people working on the car and 3-5 people around to read directions.
I will be done once I get this binding worked out.
We only had 3 people working on the car and 3-5 people around to read directions.
I will be done once I get this binding worked out.
[/IMG]
Thread Starter
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From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
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St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Well - I still have some binding.
I had another person help. We pulled the steering column all the way to the back and then tightened down the 2 bolts under the dash. I then got under the car and pried the column all the way towards the engine (it moved a lot !) and then tightened down the 2 bolts in the firewall.
It binds more on right turns than left, but they are still pretty serious binds.
I borrowed the picture above as my camera will not take good pictures in close with the engine in the way.
On mine, the area in yellow is more of a straight connection.
The area in red is where it is binding. I am almost tempted to get a dremel and a sanding drum and "relieve" that area a bit.
I had another person help. We pulled the steering column all the way to the back and then tightened down the 2 bolts under the dash. I then got under the car and pried the column all the way towards the engine (it moved a lot !) and then tightened down the 2 bolts in the firewall.
It binds more on right turns than left, but they are still pretty serious binds.
I borrowed the picture above as my camera will not take good pictures in close with the engine in the way.
On mine, the area in yellow is more of a straight connection.
The area in red is where it is binding. I am almost tempted to get a dremel and a sanding drum and "relieve" that area a bit.
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
seems like maybe you should take a break and come back to it tomorrow....i would not grind the u joint....play with it some more