Naw a BMFH

 

I ran out of blades and never got through one side of the bolt lol. Its a holiday here tomorrow so I wont be able to get any more blades unless I can find someone with some spares. Is there some kind of metal sleeve on the bolt in the bushing? Im thinking because of how long its taking to cut one bolt there might be a sleeve thats spinning while Im trying to cut it. Ive even tried a jackhammer on the bolt to push it through. I cant see how to fit a grinder or dremmel in there to reach the bolt. Now that I know the shims should just pull out that will make my job easier. Ill be doing some serious sand blasting for sure by the time Im finished it will be nice and shiny bare metal. The rest of the frame supprisingly isnt too bad. All the body mounts look solid and there isnt much rust anywhere else. I ran out of beer and switched to rum then got sidetracked pulling other parts out after I ran out of blades. Im enjoying this so far. Ill see how bad the trailing arms are after blasting and maybe just buy new ones if I dont like the look of em.
Im going to order all the calipers and rotors next week I hope. Ill be calling Van Steel sometime next week too.
Thanks for all the advice guys. Ill post some pics after blasting and with the new spring etc installed.

 

For those suggesting the dremel, won't work. You have to cut the bolts INSIDE the frame end; no room in there for anything but a blade or torch.

It took me 8 blades (hardened carbon) to cut both of mine out.

Still haven't got it together. Made myself stop at the rear u-joint! Everything else is new/rebuilt back there.

 

Sawzal and tungston carbide blades. I used one blade per trailing arm, with a cut on each side of the trailing arm.

 

I think you're cutting into the shims, and that is what is eating the blades. Try to stay along the side of the shims, and on the bolt if you can. I was able to soak the shims in PB Blaster and remove one, then two and that gave me enough wiggle room to get on the bolt itself.. Check out this thread, for some tips, including the 'fishing line' reinstallation trick that works like a charm!!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...838&forum_id=3

 

I dont think Im cutting the shims. I cut through the rubber from the bushing but the bushing is so bad I can twist the arm and see im cutting metal. It doesnt look like Im making any progress though. I was figuring there is a sleeve thats rotating or something. Ill get some better blades tomorrow or borrow a torch and finish her up. I dont have any space behind the arm on the side nearest the dif so that one will be fun. The sad thing is Im enjoying getting my but kicked by this car.

 

There is a hardened sleeve inside the bushing. You wanna cut
next to the bushing, not through any of it.
The sleeve is likely to be rust-seized to the bolt ... and that's
what keeps it from being pushed out with a hammer.

I was lucky ... my '70 chassis pivot bolts tapped right out.

Good luck !!

 

Menards carries 10" or 12' "Fire & Rescue" grade Sawzall blades. HEAVY duty 14TPI Bi-metal. 2 blades...4 cuts....done. And that's cutting through original shims and grade 8 bolt.
Eddie

 

Right on the money.

 

Finally got one side out. It only took 18 blades and a lot of rum. I was cutting through the sleeve inside the bushing as well as the bolt on the first side. I couldnt get the shims out before the bolt was cut so cut on the side of them and hit the sleeve. Ill be spending alot more time trying to get the damn shims out on the other side. It only took 4 or 5 blades and 10 mins to cut the other side of the bolt after I got the shims out and could hit the bolt without going through the sleeve. I got the rear end out while I was there. Ill rebuild that as soon as I can scrap some cash together.
Thanks for all the advice guys.