How the hell do I get this bolt out?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 402
Likes: 4
From: Nassau
How the hell do I get this bolt out?
Hi guys I just recently got a 76 vette and am restoring it while I save for a 502 engine replacement. Im going to start on the brakes and rear leaf first but found the bushing completly gone in the right rear arm that attatches to the frame and pivots up and down. Ive ordered the AIM but wont have it for a week or 2. I removed everything to take off the arm but cant get the bolt it pivots on out. Is there something special I have to do or do I just pound it out? It looks like someones beat on it before because of a flat spot on the end of the bolt. There is no space behind it to get a socket on it and a wrench wont move in either direction before hitting the frame so I cant work it loose by twisting it. This is a pic since I dont know what the arm is called and am not too good at explaining this kinda stuff in writing. Its the bolt on the right hand side of the pic.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
In my opinion, this is the most difficult job on the whole car. I used a sawzall and a full pack of blades. I had to cut on both sides of the arm because it would not move side to side. It took me several hours and a six-pack to do each rear trailing arm. I replaced it with a stainless bolt so that this doesn't happen in the future...
Racer
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 397
Likes: 1
From: CORTLANDT MANOR NY
Those are your rear trailing arms. Getting them off is a bear. Get a sawzall and cut the bolt as Duke94 indicated.
While you have them off you should look carefully at them and see if they need a rebuild or bushings. That is not a cheap job or one you want to tackle on your own as the tools needed cost more than the job itself. Look in the archives here and on other sites for information. Welcome to the world of Corvettes and the Corvette Fourm.
You are about to experience what is known as "while I have it off" symdrome. This occurs when you start a little job like changing the brake pads which leads to replacing the calipersand getting the rotors cut, to replacing the break lines, to repairing a body mount and ends up finally in a full frame off restoration.
While you have them off you should look carefully at them and see if they need a rebuild or bushings. That is not a cheap job or one you want to tackle on your own as the tools needed cost more than the job itself. Look in the archives here and on other sites for information. Welcome to the world of Corvettes and the Corvette Fourm.
You are about to experience what is known as "while I have it off" symdrome. This occurs when you start a little job like changing the brake pads which leads to replacing the calipersand getting the rotors cut, to replacing the break lines, to repairing a body mount and ends up finally in a full frame off restoration.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 0
From: Olive Branch MS
St. Jude Contributor
I agree with all of the above. Get some "Milwalkee Torch" 12' sawzall blades. They were the best I found while doing this project. It was the first thing I did when I got mine and have yet to do anything more difficult. Keep a note of the shims on either side of the t-arm as they will need to be replaced in the same order, but get stainless shims. 
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 984
Likes: 23
From: Florence SC
I removed mine from my 71 coupe with very little problems, glad they didn't require the cutting approch. I have a question though, when I reinstalled mine I reused the existing bolts and they have been fine so far, Isn't stainless steel a softer metal than carbon steel? Wouldn't they be prone to sheer more so than the original types? The best I remember they are just 7/16ths bolts and these 2 bolts push the car no matter how much HP gets thrown at them with stock suspension. I'm just asking, I have never heard of these breaking but I think it could be possible.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 9,244
Likes: 221
From: Dryden MI
I hope that someone else has opinions on this, but I have read and heard that stainless steel bolts should not be used where bolt strength is required as they are not as strong as high quality steel bolts. Any other opinions?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 402
Likes: 4
From: Nassau
This sux lol. Ive gone through 8 blades and it doesnt look like Im even half way through one side of the bolt. Im in the Bahamas so getting the trailing arms rebuilt is going to be impossible here. I was hoping I could do it myself.
I know all about the while Im at it syndrome. I suffer with it in just about everything I do. I found the half shaft has 1/4" play on the right side of the posi so I guess thats a rebuild if Im lucky enough for the case to not be eaten out. I want 4:11 gears anyway. The castle nut was welded onto the shaft that the caliper is attatched to so I had to grind that off, The shock bolt wouldnt brake loose and turned out to be bent so I cut that off. I cant pound out the shock mount that holds the strut so will probably have to cut that too. I ordered this rear end kit http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=848 It says it comes with trailing arm bushings so I hope I can find somewhere to install em here.
Im going to order the calipers and rotors as soon as I can afford them. This is just starting to get interesting
I know all about the while Im at it syndrome. I suffer with it in just about everything I do. I found the half shaft has 1/4" play on the right side of the posi so I guess thats a rebuild if Im lucky enough for the case to not be eaten out. I want 4:11 gears anyway. The castle nut was welded onto the shaft that the caliper is attatched to so I had to grind that off, The shock bolt wouldnt brake loose and turned out to be bent so I cut that off. I cant pound out the shock mount that holds the strut so will probably have to cut that too. I ordered this rear end kit http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=848 It says it comes with trailing arm bushings so I hope I can find somewhere to install em here.
Im going to order the calipers and rotors as soon as I can afford them. This is just starting to get interesting
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
Originally Posted by bahamasair
I was afraid you were going to say that. Ill yank both sides while Im at it and por15 or powdercoat them. I guess I better put some beer in the fridge. Thanks guys
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,286
Likes: 4
From: Guam
When I first saw the pictures, I thought about the job that I had just done. The corrosion on the frame parts and the brake rotor indicated that the car must have been hardly driven and was near a tropical location. So when you stated that you were in the Bahamas, that explained everything.
I got mine out by using a little heat from a torch and lots of oil. I determined that the bushings would have to be replaced. So if the bushing got heat damage, that was fine. I had a replacement trailing arm which meant that I would not have to struggle with a bushing replacement on the original arm.
As for the stainless steel bolt, I would not use it. I have had bad luck with stainless steel bolt failures. I would just use anti seize compound on the same of grade bolt.
Please keep us updated on your progress. We would love to know how many beers it took to perform the job.
I got mine out by using a little heat from a torch and lots of oil. I determined that the bushings would have to be replaced. So if the bushing got heat damage, that was fine. I had a replacement trailing arm which meant that I would not have to struggle with a bushing replacement on the original arm.
As for the stainless steel bolt, I would not use it. I have had bad luck with stainless steel bolt failures. I would just use anti seize compound on the same of grade bolt.
Please keep us updated on your progress. We would love to know how many beers it took to perform the job.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,198
Likes: 2
From: Eastern Connecticut
I got mine out with a cutting torch. The shims were slotted and came out with little effort, then 30 seconds with the hot wrench and they were history. Joe
PS, stainless is about the same strength as ordinary steel (grade 3) bolts, no where near as strong as the grade 8 fasteners you need for suspensions.
PS, stainless is about the same strength as ordinary steel (grade 3) bolts, no where near as strong as the grade 8 fasteners you need for suspensions.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
Everyone is telling you straight on your trailing arms. I just finished mine. I used a sawsall to cut both sides of the bolt on each arm. Buy the bolts that are made to go back in it and use anti sieze on them. Don't cut the shock mount bolt out. Remove the strut rod from the carrier end. It will come out easy. Then remove the trailing arm and strut together. Then set the trailing arm in a vise, put a couple nuts or the special shock mount removal tool sold by all the vette vendors and pound it with a sledge. Don't try to turn it because it has flats milled on one surface; you will see them when you get it removed. When you reinstall the shock mount, use anti sieze on it too. Take your time, if you get frustrated just walk away for a while, drink a beer and relish in the fact that soon this part of your restoration will be over and not need to be redone for many years!
Bernie
Bernie
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,456
Likes: 2
From: Coming home from Luckenbach Texas
To get the trailing arms rebuilt, check out Van Steel in Florida. They're a supporting vendor and have a link around here somewhere. Good people. And that's not too far from you...hopefully you have a way of getting 'em over there...
And I think -- don't quote me on this -- they have a discount for forum members.
And I think -- don't quote me on this -- they have a discount for forum members.
Senior Member since 1492
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 87,922
Likes: 156
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by SanDiegoPaul
I think a die-grinder or a Dremel is a lot easier to get in there than a SawZall
I was thinking the same. A cut off wheel on my right angle air drill.
This is a job I'm not looking forward to.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
From: WAY SOUTH OF HEAVEN inebriated
i used a 7'' zip cut to zip off the arm all together i cut it as close as possible then used a 6'' blade with24 teeth per inch i went through 6 blades.my trailing arms were toast anyways.im in the process of sand blasting out my t arm pockets picked up a blaster at wall mart for 20$ and two bags of sand just picked it up for a minute and will work perfect.the pockets werent bad but while there out if youve got a air compresser id look at something like i found under 35$ for fresh pockets.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
... this brings back memories..... 
I bought a reciprocating saw (spelling?) at Lowe's and some saw blades.... took only 10 minutes per bolt.....
.... of course this was AFTER several days of frustration....
I bought a reciprocating saw (spelling?) at Lowe's and some saw blades.... took only 10 minutes per bolt.....
.... of course this was AFTER several days of frustration....