Shock mount removal ?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Shock mount removal ?
I have the shock removal tool on the end and whacking it with a long handle 6 lb sledge and it won't move. I am afraid I am going to bust the trailing arm somewhere.
Should I try some heat ?
I don't care about the strut rod bushings as I am putting new strut rods in. It's always like pulling teeth trying to work on these cars
Should I try some heat ?
I don't care about the strut rod bushings as I am putting new strut rods in. It's always like pulling teeth trying to work on these cars
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
I don't think heat would hurt. Give it a try and 'getter done'.
Some of these PIA's would be a PIA even if the car was only 5 years old. Things tend to rust together. I removed mine last fall and it only took a 4lb hammer; although it took some time. CAr manufactures only care about building the car and hopefully make some money. If they had to work on them 30 years later, they would have made things better so that they would come apart.
Some of these PIA's would be a PIA even if the car was only 5 years old. Things tend to rust together. I removed mine last fall and it only took a 4lb hammer; although it took some time. CAr manufactures only care about building the car and hopefully make some money. If they had to work on them 30 years later, they would have made things better so that they would come apart.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
I was lucky, I was removing the trailing arms anyway. I used the removal tool but could not get it to break free while on the car. The trailing arm has just enough give to take away the shock of the sledge hitting the mount tool. I had thought about cutting a piece of metal just long enough to wedge it between the shock bracket and the frame to make it solid when I hit it, but again, I pulled the arm and strut together then pounded it out on a vise. Heat should do it for you. Good luck!
Bernie
Bernie
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 99
From: Orrtanna Pa.
Motorhead,
I had the same problem with mine six or seven years ago,and it took lots of heat,penetrating oil,and the beloved sledge hammer.Order the shock bolts now,so by the time you bang out the old bolts(you will not be able to reuse them) you'll have them in hand.Do not bang for long with out trying more heat. That cast iron bearing housing could snap if you're not careful.
By the way,my shock remover tool which I baught new for that job,looks like an atomic mushroom cloud from all the banging.
Good luck.
I had the same problem with mine six or seven years ago,and it took lots of heat,penetrating oil,and the beloved sledge hammer.Order the shock bolts now,so by the time you bang out the old bolts(you will not be able to reuse them) you'll have them in hand.Do not bang for long with out trying more heat. That cast iron bearing housing could snap if you're not careful.
By the way,my shock remover tool which I baught new for that job,looks like an atomic mushroom cloud from all the banging.
Good luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio Texas
these mounts are notoriously hard to remove. i banged on mine for a while and had the same concerns about using a sledge hammer on suspension parts.
i found a VERY easy way to remove mine and maybe it will work for you. i use a small gear puller (6 inch). i "straddled" the yoke where the shock mount goes through and put the screw end of the gear puller on the end of the threaded part of the shock mount. tighten it up as much as you can. then tap (and it didn't take much) on the screw of the gear puller. the mount should move an eighth of an inch or so. then tighten up the puller again. i only had to do this twice before the shock mount slipped out. it worked so well i'm surprised i've never read of anyone else doing it this way.
hope this helps.
i found a VERY easy way to remove mine and maybe it will work for you. i use a small gear puller (6 inch). i "straddled" the yoke where the shock mount goes through and put the screw end of the gear puller on the end of the threaded part of the shock mount. tighten it up as much as you can. then tap (and it didn't take much) on the screw of the gear puller. the mount should move an eighth of an inch or so. then tighten up the puller again. i only had to do this twice before the shock mount slipped out. it worked so well i'm surprised i've never read of anyone else doing it this way.
hope this helps.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
I used a ball joint separator. This worked only because my strut bushings were destroyed. I was able to get the separator to straddle the first fork and the threaded part of the bolt. A few twists from my wrench and it broke free.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,025
Likes: 1
From: Billings MT
Huh, I just did this when I installed the DragVette kit and they came right out. 
I agree, apply some heat and I have found that a product called the "Ultimate Penetrater"
works very well. They also make a special wax that will work into the crack, you can try candle wax though.
Good Luck!
I agree, apply some heat and I have found that a product called the "Ultimate Penetrater"
works very well. They also make a special wax that will work into the crack, you can try candle wax though. Good Luck!
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I gave up gonna save that job for some time in the future when I need a little agrevation. I was hitting the shock mount with a long handled 6 lbs sledge hammer winding up from about 3 feet away, I know when I am beat. Shock removal tool does it job though saved the threads I was able to get the DragVette safety loops on.
Anyone know how many degrees the rear wheel camber is supposed to be ? You don't have to adjust that cam on the strut rods very much, my rear wheels are at 90 degrees right now perfectly perpendicular and they look real funny. IS it 10 deg. inward at the top ?
Anyone know how many degrees the rear wheel camber is supposed to be ? You don't have to adjust that cam on the strut rods very much, my rear wheels are at 90 degrees right now perfectly perpendicular and they look real funny. IS it 10 deg. inward at the top ?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
here's what I did: cut the strut rod and the sleeve. I was able to safe one of the two shock mounts ($40 each), I replaced the strut rods anyway so it wasn't a loss... I was afraid to brake the spindle (or the part that the shock mount bolts to), therefore I just cut it out...
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 11,520
Likes: 13
From: CORVETTE 77 385 C.I. TEXAS
Originally Posted by MotorHead
I gave up gonna save that job for some time in the future when I need a little agrevation. I was hitting the shock mount with a long handled 6 lbs sledge hammer winding up from about 3 feet away, I know when I am beat. ...
When jacked up the strut rod will be in a bind so removing the inner bolt or jacking up the outside will help a lot.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Easton PA
I cut out the strut rod and bushing. I was repacing both anyway. where I really made progress was getting the air hammer and chisel wedged between the shock mount and first ear on the spindle mount. It finally worked its way out. Good Luck! 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Originally Posted by 68BLUEVETTE
I cut out the strut rod and bushing. I was repacing both anyway. where I really made progress was getting the air hammer and chisel wedged between the shock mount and first ear on the spindle mount. It finally worked its way out. Good Luck!
Slowly grind through the inner sleeve and the mount should pop out with a few taps.
No biggy, if replacing the rods anyway.
Good luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Originally Posted by second76
I used a ball joint separator. This worked only because my strut bushings were destroyed. I was able to get the separator to straddle the first fork and the threaded part of the bolt. A few twists from my wrench and it broke free.
Here's what happened to me-
I used a pitman arm puller on the first one I did 200 years ago.
Snapped the ear off the spindle support.
If they have been recently removed/replaced or haven't been exposed to too much nasty weather, then I guess this will work without a hitch.
Otherwise..... the strut bushing inner sleeve gets rust welded to the support, and the support gets rust-welded to the spindle support... in addition to being a press fit.
Using the outer spindle ear as a pressure point can break 'em off clean.
It's risky (and expensive) as I found out.
I saved my broken spindle for show & tell and to remind me of the laws of physics.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I will probably cut them out, what did you guys use, I have a grinder with a cutting wheel will that work ?
And whats the angle I am looking for, for the camber of the rear wheels ????
And whats the angle I am looking for, for the camber of the rear wheels ????
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
Originally Posted by MotorHead
And whats the angle I am looking for, for the camber of the rear wheels ????
Eddie
Last edited by Silvr77; May 16, 2005 at 02:36 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
After I broke the first one, on the second one, I burned the rubber out of the strut bushing and then used a small chisel to open up the rust welded inner bushing sleeve so it was loose. The OEM bushing sleeve was a "split sleeve" so it could just be spread apart & opened up. Then I put the nut on backwards and pounded it out of the spindle support. The OEM front T-arm bushings are rubber.... and this absorbs a lot of your energy.... this is what makes it hard to pound out the shock support from the spindle support.
