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Frozen trailing arm bolt

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Old May 17, 2005 | 12:36 PM
  #21  
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Wow! This sounds like fun I'm about to do this on my '64 and I can hardly wait! Seriously, this thread couldn't have come at a better time - thanks for the tips.
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Old May 17, 2005 | 10:41 PM
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Just picked up the car. He got the LR TA bolt loose and was able to get the shims in. Took it up to 100mph. Nice having dead on straight steering.
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Old May 17, 2005 | 11:36 PM
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Remove all the windows and wear goggles.
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Old May 18, 2005 | 05:50 AM
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I use a die grinder with a long cross cut fissured bit. It'll cut through the shims easily. Pry them out, then use the grinder on both sides of the bolt.

MUCH easier IMHO than a sawzall. I'm a dentist, and am used to working with drills. The die grinder is just a HUGE version of what I use every day.

With a cross cut bit, it will cut through the shims and bolt like a hot knife through butter. It's still a PIA, but you won't be breaking blades and fighting a relatively large tool in the wheelwell. Chuck
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Old May 18, 2005 | 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck Gongloff
I use a die grinder with a long cross cut fissured bit. It'll cut through the shims easily. Pry them out, then use the grinder on both sides of the bolt.

MUCH easier IMHO than a sawzall. I'm a dentist, and am used to working with drills. The die grinder is just a HUGE version of what I use every day.

With a cross cut bit, it will cut through the shims and bolt like a hot knife through butter. It's still a PIA, but you won't be breaking blades and fighting a relatively large tool in the wheelwell. Chuck

Chuck, is that cross cut bit like a drill bit, with teeth cut into the shaft instead of a spiral?
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Old May 18, 2005 | 06:45 AM
  #26  
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Yes. In the "dental biz", we call them cross cut fissured burrs. They cut on the end, BUT they're designed to cut on the sides.

I have several. The business ends of the bits are about 1 1/2 inches long. CUT LIKE CRAZY. Wear goggles. Chuck
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Old May 18, 2005 | 08:27 AM
  #27  
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Are you saying he got the nut off and pulled the bolt out and did the job without cutting the bolt ?
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Old May 18, 2005 | 08:50 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Chuck Gongloff
I use a die grinder with a long cross cut fissured bit. It'll cut through the shims easily. Pry them out, then use the grinder on both sides of the bolt.

MUCH easier IMHO than a sawzall. I'm a dentist, and am used to working with drills. The die grinder is just a HUGE version of what I use every day.

With a cross cut bit, it will cut through the shims and bolt like a hot knife through butter. It's still a PIA, but you won't be breaking blades and fighting a relatively large tool in the wheelwell. Chuck
That sounds like a great way to rip things apart where space is limited. I hate saws and torches and regular angle grinders aren't always an option. Where do you get one of these?
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Old May 18, 2005 | 09:34 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
Are you saying he got the nut off and pulled the bolt out and did the job without cutting the bolt ?
Yep. Pretty amazing, although it gave him several gray hairs.
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Old May 18, 2005 | 09:41 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Chuck Gongloff
Yes. In the "dental biz", we call them cross cut fissured burrs. They cut on the end, BUT they're designed to cut on the sides.

I have several. The business ends of the bits are about 1 1/2 inches long. CUT LIKE CRAZY. Wear goggles. Chuck

I think that's what my dentist uses, too...
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Old May 18, 2005 | 10:33 AM
  #31  
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Since I had two new trailing arms, my first step was to use the sawzall to cut the old TAs off as close to the bolt as I could (about 4-6 inches). Then I had plenty of room to sit in the wheel well and spend an afternoon cutting throught the bolts...
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Old May 18, 2005 | 10:40 AM
  #32  
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I don't get it. I know the 68's had the t-arm shims that you had to pull the bolt to get them in and out but couldn't the shop have used the newer style that only requires the nut to be loosened to insert the shims?
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Old May 18, 2005 | 12:52 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by theandies
I don't get it. I know the 68's had the t-arm shims that you had to pull the bolt to get them in and out but couldn't the shop have used the newer style that only requires the nut to be loosened to insert the shims?
Yeah but one of the old shims had to go in place for a thinner one.
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Old May 18, 2005 | 01:41 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by jdmick
That sounds like a great way to rip things apart where space is limited. I hate saws and torches and regular angle grinders aren't always an option. Where do you get one of these?
I have a compilation of 2 CHEAP sets of air tools, the kind you buy at BJ's Warehouse, Price Club, etc. I've got an impact wrench, an air chisel, the die grinder, a "whizzer" (muffler cutter), and a couple of 3/8 drive wrenches. They serve my purposes well, as I don't use them that often.

The die grinder is one of those. Can't remember a brand, "Allied" maybe? They're cheap tools. After I use them, I put a few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil in 'em and run them a few seconds. Chuck
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Old May 18, 2005 | 01:59 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mandm1200
They could save a couple of hours of labor by bending the trailing arm.
Or maybe just cut off the trailing arm to get it out of the way!!!
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Old May 18, 2005 | 02:59 PM
  #36  
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Cali,
Didn't think of that.....that sucks. You did use the slotted shims and had them replace all the old style shims for next time right?

Chuck,
Are you coming to the Lars event this weekend?

Last edited by theandies; May 18, 2005 at 03:01 PM.
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Old May 18, 2005 | 04:36 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by theandies
Chuck,
Are you coming to the Lars event this weekend?
Wish I could make it, but I cannot. Have a Mason Dixon Chapter NCRS cruise/lunch on Saturday, then we're judging a car or two after lunch.

On Sunday, have tix for the Baltimore Orioles/Philadelphia Phillies baseball game at Camden Yards. Chuck
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