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My 68's at the alignment shop and was supposed to be done by 1400 but the alignment guy got everything done excpet for the driver's rear due to the frozen TA pin. He's unable to add the remaining shims in between the two original ones due to the damn bolt which he's BFH hammered on and done anything aside from blasting powder. Anyway I have the max price quote so if he goes 10 hours over it's still the same price. Any ideas how to loosen up the TA bolt?
Other tires had both toe and camber out,,,,,whaaaaay out like the RF with
-5.5 toe and 11 camber, geesh hope there's something left of the tires.
My 68's at the alignment shop and was supposed to be done by 1400 but the alignment guy got everything done excpet for the driver's rear due to the frozen TA pin. He's unable to add the remaining shims in between the two original ones due to the damn bolt which he's BFH hammered on and done anything aside from blasting powder. Anyway I have the max price quote so if he goes 10 hours over it's still the same price. Any ideas how to loosen up the TA bolt?
Other tires had both toe and camber out,,,,,whaaaaay out like the RF with
-5.5 toe and 11 camber, geesh hope there's something left of the tires.
This is a normal problem with out older cars, the bolt rusts in solid. It took me an entire evening cutting out this bolt. Alot of guys use a sawzall?? and a couple of good blades. If they do this at a flat rate you are really getting a deal.
I worked out the old rusted shims then pushed the arm one way, cut off the bolt head, pushed it the other way and finished cutting the bolt, I removed the trailing arms with the bolts still through the bushing.
It is a dirty job.
Yup, a sawzall is the way to go. I only had one frozen on mine, but that was enough. He has to dig out the shims like Norval said, then slice through both sides of the bolt. I went through six heavy duty blades. It takes patience.
Yep, these guys are both right. It took me about 14 saw blades and around 10 hours to do both sides. Removed the whole arm. Tell ya what....I replaced mine with stainless nut, bolt and shims. That's the way to go. Also I givem' a shot of Sea Form from time to time. Taking ne chances for that to happen again. But it's a real job.
i spent the $59 or whatever it was on a saw from Lowe's and cut the bolts in less than 10 minutes.... the SS replacement bolts incl. shims are $40 - way less than what the shop charges to remove the bolts....
They could save a couple of hours of labor by bending the trailing arm.
Yes, thank you. That's similiar to what I found on my car. The drivers side trailing arm was bent (I'm guessing from an accident, no sign of press work) and rather than do a proper repair by replacing the arm, Bubba pulled both strut rods off and "reshaped" them in a press. Which is why a simple caliper rebuild job turned into my '74 sitting up on jackstands with the entire rear suspension out from under it.
i spent the $59 or whatever it was on a saw from Lowe's and cut the bolts in less than 10 minutes.... the SS replacement bolts incl. shims are $40 - way less than what the shop charges to remove the bolts....
You were very fortunate. Several hours is more the norm with the level of rust most cars have.
You were very fortunate. Several hours is more the norm with the level of rust most cars have.
Steve
I think the biggest mistake people make is they cut through the ends of the trailing arm bushing, which is case hardened steel. I cut through the shims and bolt and have had one trailing arm out in 20mins.
The exact same bolt was frozen up on my car too. After two days of alternating between Deep Creep and the BFH, I finally blew the ends off with a torch and knocked it out on the bench. Had to put in new bushings anyway, so no big deal.
I went to Lowes and purchased a demolition saw blade after getting advice from another CF member. The blades are around $2 a piece and have diamond compound on each side of the blade. It took one blade for each cut ie two blades for each frozen bolt. You need a long blade (about 10" from memory) as the sawsall has trouble getting right in close.
Use some never sieze on the new bolt when you put it in.
He didn't say the quoted 10 hours to do. They must have various ways of charging. From the way I read it, they charge $XXX if it takes 1 hour, 2 hours, or 15 hours. They make out good on the quick jobs, but wind up breaking even on jobs like this. It's like buying insurance.
He didn't say the quoted 10 hours to do. They must have various ways of charging. From the way I read it, they charge $XXX if it takes 1 hour, 2 hours, or 15 hours. They make out good on the quick jobs, but wind up breaking even on jobs like this. It's like buying insurance.
You were very fortunate. Several hours is more the norm with the level of rust most cars have.
Steve
Fortunate ?? not really.... I bought the saw after several hours of frustration with these bolts and shims.... I got the shims out on one side, then I couldn't get the bolt out.... I cut it with the saw (5 minute job)... then on the other side I cut right through the shims and the bolt.... I cut on both sides of the trailing arm and removed the remaining part of the bolt with the old TA bushing...