hey experts, i just got my new rag joint to replace my worn and torn 34 yr old one on my 71 BB. i got the coupler off the steering drive gear but i can't separate the old rag from it... is there a way to do this or do i need to order the coupler also...thanks

 

It sounds as if you purchased one of those flexible coupling rebuild "kits". The original coupling disc was never intended to be serviced! It is held in place on the flange that attaches to the steering gear input shaft by means of hot staked pins. The "kit" expects you to bolt the parts together and will result in an assembly that is not nearly as secure or durable as your 34 year old original.

I recommend that you bite the bullet, spend the bucks, and purchase the complete flexible coupling assembly from a GM dealer or any one of a number of Corvette suppliers. You want GM #7818568.

 

You will not regret listening to Jim. He is THE expert.
Get his install paper from corvettefaq.com.

Hey Jim, I have mine fully installed, and I took a couple pictures
of it with the red alignment spacers in place. They seemed to work great.
If you want a copy, let me know and I can send full res.

 

as it seemed i couldn't get it apart yesterday... i ordered the whole gizmo from mid america evening last... will have to look at your paper jim...

 

Those are still available form GM too FYI.
Gary

 

hmmm... never had a problem with an aftermarket bolt-type rag joint kit... just use loctite to secure the bolts.

the blonde weasel

 

I just did mine with one of those kits also. Very easy. I used Loctite on everything.

 

i'll have to get a small bottle of locktite...good suggestion. i noticed in taking off the old rag joint that the steering box was actually a little right of the steering rod... i read your paper jim but i'm concerned as to whether i can straighten this like you suggest in your paper or if i may have a more serious problem... like a bent frame or sumthin..

 

I don't know how many different kits that might be out there. The problem I am having with most of them is this. You should NEVER make a bolted connection through rubber. A bolted connection depends on bolt stretch and tension in the joint created by torquing the nut. When you bolt metal parts properly together, the metal parts are unyielding and tension in the bolt keeps the joint secure for life.

When you try to bolt through a joint with rubber, first of all, you never build adequate tension in the bolt. Over time the rubber relaxes even more and all tension in the bolt is lost, and the nut can then back off.

Even if you double nut, use a torque prevailing nut, or loctite the nut to the bolt, you still never had correct tension in the bolted connection. All tension in the bolt will eventually be lost since the rubber will relax. A loose bolt will eventually begin to rock and come apart.

I purchased a kit a while back in order to look at the parts. This kit actually bolted together correctly. It had stop pins with shoulders so that when you tightened the nuts it clamped the rubber disc securely while retaining a metal to metal connection. It also had metal bushings that were inserted into the two rubber disc holes for the coupling bolts. The metal bushings also would affect a metal to metal connection while sandwiching the rubber disc in place.

I have seen pictures of kits with straight common bolts. There is a real problem with those kits that just provide straight bolts or straight threaded stop pins. They really are not secure.

 

I've had the same experience with the "kits" the plain bolts are not correct - I've never found the kits with the right "shoulder" bolts or bushings. I was going to fab some up but I decided to replace the rag joint with a Flaming River billet needle coupler - It was a quarter of the price and is as secure as you can get - I hear I'll feel more vibration and I bet Jim hates this idea - but there ain't no more slop there....if any one wants a photo chime in and I'll take/post one...

 

I know that I sound negative toward everything except OEM.

However, here is why we didn't use a cardon joint in place of the flexible coupling in most GM applications where the steering column connects directly to the steering gear. The cardon joint is not forgiving enough relative to any build tolerances when the car is assembled. Nor is the cardon joint forgiving enough when the frame flexes relative to the body when driven over a rough road. This puts a high loading on the steering column lower bearing.

Also later C3s had rubber body mounts this aggrevates the body to frame motion. If the mounts sag with time, this also places a continuous side load on the column lower bearing.

 

Jim your insight is deeply appreciated as always. THANK YOU for sharing your knowledge.