I got this movie from my thread about rear ends letting go. Turns out it was wheel spacers. I guess they're okay up to a point

http://www.c3sharktank.com/sound/Lost_Traction.mpeg

 

Adapters or spacers? There's a difference. I have 3" ling 1/2" studs, I'm not afraid of 1/2" spacers.

 

Quite honestly, I wouldn't use EITHER ONE on a car.
But that's just me

Dep

 

I'm planning on using 1/4 inch spacers on the rear tires when I'm going to use the transbrake..

The tires are very close to the frame, and if the car squats more with the transbrake, there's a chance of the tires hitting the frame... 1/4 inch spacers in combination with longer lugnuts should be safe. The studs are taking 99% of the abuse. The only danger is if the spacers beak, the wheels will be loose...

 

There's a huge difference between these 'sandwich' style spacers and the adapters that for example I use. The adapter (or spacer) is bolted to the axle and is supported centric on the hub, just like the rim would be. Then the rim is bolted to the adapter - the adapter has the same hub that the axle has so that the bolts (studs) are NOT taking any load when breaking/accellerating or hitting a pothole... I don't see any increased load on studs or whatsoever using these adapters - I am however willing to learn if somebody has a good explaination as to why this is not as good as bolting a rim directly to the axle.

When using the 'sandwich' style - yes, there is increased load on the studs and they will eventually break.

 

My tire guy sold me 1/8" aluminium spacers. He claims as long as you have 3 to 4 full turns on the lug your good. 1/8" was all I needed to get the caliper away from the rim.Tried 1/4" first, didnt fell good about the amount of turns I had.

 

If you use longer lug nuts, you'll have the same amount of turns...
For example, I'm going to use a 1/4 " spacer and 1/4 inch deeper lug nuts... I'm getting the same amount of thread with or without the spacer... However, ther will be indeed more stress on the studs. I've got long MOROSO studs, so I should be ok..

 

[QUOTE=RedBad1979]There's a huge difference between these 'sandwich' style spacers and the adapters that for example I use. The adapter (or spacer) is bolted to the axle and is supported centric on the hub, just like the rim would be. Then the rim is bolted to the adapter - the adapter has the same hub that the axle has so that the bolts (studs) are NOT taking any load when breaking/accellerating or hitting a pothole... I don't see any increased load on studs or whatsoever using these adapters - I am however willing to learn if somebody has a good explaination as to why this is not as good as bolting a rim directly to the axle.




I have been using billet alum adapters from VBP with no problems at all. (I have been known to push a car pretty hard) Before I purchased them I spoke to several racers that use this set up on the track and also on the street/highway also with no problems.

I would not risk my life or my passenger if I felt there was even a remote chance of failure.

I too am willing to learn if somebody has a good explanation as to why this is not as good as bolting a rim directly to the axle.

VPB has been selling these for some time now and If there were known problems I don't believe they would risk the liability

 

The bold part is completely untrue, the hubcentricity only makes that the axle load is not on the studs but on the hub and the studs give the clamping to keep the wheel attached to the hub, however when accelerating/braking the load is on the studs and not the hubcentricity, if you want to unload the studs you have to use a spined hub/wheel combo or a system w/ dogs (pins) like on most center nut (single wheel nut) race wheels/hubs. So, with a spacer, normal bolts or an adapter..if you have sticky tires and enough grunt you can always snap the studs. The only solution is bigger studs and the adapters still rely on the strength of those tiny stock studs. I will bet my 1/2" thick studs w/ spacers against any of those adapters out there. There's also a difference between spacers and spacers, a close fitting spacer is a good solution, a spacer fitting tight over a knurled section is even better. My studs have longer knurled section and the rotor actually sits on the knurl (it's drilled out to tighly fit the knurl), remember the rotor itself is in effect a wheel sapcer.

If you check out race car engineering guides/books you will see that a close fitting spacer that sits over a knurled section is deemed a good solution, a spacer over a threaded secion is accepteble if it's tight fitting. A loose spacer is a no no, so if you're afraid of snapping studs don't use those large holed cast things.

Check out the C4 studs...GM didn't go 1 step bigger on those for no reason.

Are stock C3 wheels hub centric? I don't think so.

 

You're right - when accelerating there is load on the studs. There is also a lot of friction to overcome at the two mating surfaces of the rim and the axle (or adapter).

With my horsepowerlevel I am more concerned about pottholes - these wheel studs would take a hard beating if there was not the center hub taking that load.

Stock C3 wheels (as well as the stock wheels on my Z28) are hubcentric.

 

The stockers have far too much play between hub & wheel to be hubcentric, the rotor is hubcentric on the hub but the wheel isn't. Bimmers are hubcentric and those suckers are on there tight, they also use bolts instead of studs.

 

Hello everyone,
I am new to this forum. I feel there is no problem with 1/4" and under spacers as long as you don't get the sloppy ones. I would also make sure your studs are long enough. I belive S&W racecars has them as well as A.R.T. up to 1/2". If it makes you feel better I have been running 1/4" spacers on my racecar (67 gto) for 3 years now. I have been 10.19/134 and have had no problem at all. I am running 1/2" studs.
Mike S

 

I found these on the internet.They're 1/2"billet,hubcentric.The only problem I had with these is the lug holes were drilled too large,so I put some plastic bushings in the holes to keep the spacer centered better.
No vibration what so ever,been to 130mph plus with it.I did run longer Moroso studs for some extra thread length.

 

where did you get those? They look to be drilled for 1/2" studs,..just what I'm looking for. I could just modify them and press a sleeve in that's hubcentric for the wheels also.

 

I'll have to dig through my box of receipts to find out for sure. It was some circle track site on the internet,and I think the holes are 5/8" which is why I put in the bushings.I'll look when I get home tonight.

 

hmm, lotsa circle track sites on the internet. I have quite a few of them bookmarked, I'll do some snooping around.

 

TT:

look at this site - they 'custom' make the spacers to whatever size you want...

http://www.wheeladapter.com/contact_us.asp

 

I know, I contacted that guy and somehow he doesn't want my business because I'm from outside the US. He told me to have stuff machined here, which is BS (machine shops aren't really willing to do custom stuff here) and when I replied that I didn't care about any shipping cost or whatever and that I'd gladly pay for it he enver replied again....dunno wtf is up with that but if he doesn't want my money so be it. I do have a CAD drawing of what I need so it would have been fairly simple to produce, just follow the drawing..that's all.

 

There is one Ebay-store that sells 'custom made' adapters - I saw it a few months ago, they want roughly $150 per set (two) which is not really cheap but if you want custom you'll pay custom... I do not remember that store's name, search for "wheel adapt* ***** custom made" - maybe you're lucky and find that seller.

 

ooops, just found some links for you...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW