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I would like to bring my wheels out appx. 1/4" so that the tires I'm purchasing clear the parking brake hardware on the outboard trailing arms (I know I can weld the hardware on the inside of the arm, but waiting until I replace the arms to do that).
Will thin (1/4" or less) wheel spacers (the type that bolt between the hub and the wheel) be a problem? I've heard of issues regarding unnecessary stress, but I believe that was from much thicker spacers.
Spacers have to be at least 3/4" thick so that they can have the studs pressed in. That "washer type" spacer is absolutely unsafe - the rim is not supported by the center hub anymore. See photo below - hubcentric spacer (centric to rim and axle):
Is that called a spacer or an adapter? 3/4" would be too thick. I only need 1/4" to get the tires away from the parking brake clip. I understand what you're talking about...the wheel is sorta "floating" without being butted up against the hub.
Can I just remove the parking brake hardware? The damn things don't work anyway...
If you mean just a plain spacer like those used for aftermarket wheels to clear the calipers, 1/4" is OK. I've used the 1/2" spacers provided by Cragar to install Cragar SS's on my '69 with no problem....
There is absolutely nothing wrong with spacers if used correctly. Don't worry about that whole lug centric or hub centric crap. Most aftermarket rims are lug centric anyway.
The Cragar guys have to run 1/2" spacers to clear the calipers, but they also run deep nuts that actually protrude through the wheel to engage the stud. You cannot use the deep nuts because your rims are probably designed for acorn nuts. That goes back to that lug centric thing.
I run 5/16" spacers on the front (the cheap *** Mr Gasket ones) I installed longer wheel studs because I wasn't happy with the amount of threads available for the nut to thread onto. You have to be very careful when using spacers and check your lug torque often. I have never had a nut fall off nor have I had a stud break. You also have to verify that the spacer is centered properly while tightening the nuts to make sure you don't throw off your balance. I have had my car up over 120 with no vibration at all.
You will find that some people are deathly afraid of spacers and will criticize anyone who uses them. Don't let them bother you and enjoy your car.
If you mean just a plain spacer like those used for aftermarket wheels to clear the calipers, 1/4" is OK. I've used the 1/2" spacers provided by Cragar to install Cragar SS's on my '69 with no problem....
I've had the Cragars with 1/2 inch spacers too.. Drove over 20k miles with them and also raced... No problems at all..
There is absolutely nothing wrong with spacers if used correctly. Don't worry about that whole lug centric or hub centric crap. Most aftermarket rims are lug centric anyway.
The Cragar guys have to run 1/2" spacers to clear the calipers, but they also run deep nuts that actually protrude through the wheel to engage the stud. You cannot use the deep nuts because your rims are probably designed for acorn nuts. That goes back to that lug centric thing.
I run 5/16" spacers on the front (the cheap *** Mr Gasket ones) I installed longer wheel studs because I wasn't happy with the amount of threads available for the nut to thread onto. You have to be very careful when using spacers and check your lug torque often. I have never had a nut fall off nor have I had a stud break. You also have to verify that the spacer is centered properly while tightening the nuts to make sure you don't throw off your balance. I have had my car up over 120 with no vibration at all.
You will find that some people are deathly afraid of spacers and will criticize anyone who uses them. Don't let them bother you and enjoy your car.
I agree, it wouldn't hurt to have a set of adapters that are hubcentric for both sides, in fact it would be pretty damn nice. 1/4" is fine w/ spacers. I prefer billet spacers over the cheap cast ones.
I agree, it wouldn't hurt to have a set of adapters that are hubcentric for both sides, in fact it would be pretty damn nice. 1/4" is fine w/ spacers. I prefer billet spacers over the cheap cast ones.
Who makes billet 1/4" spacers? I was looking for those but couldn't find any 1/4" billet spacers!
No one, I am still looking for a set of 1/2" billet ones. There are 1/4" and 1/2" adapters available for bimmers (from Eibach & H&R), their bolt circle is really close to ours so you could massage the holes to fit (it's only .3mm off if I remember correctly) and if you have thicker wheel studs you could just redrill and it wouldn't be visible at all. You would have to loose the hubcentric ridge and make sure the spacers are for the larger bimmer hub, there are 72,5 and 78 mm ones..maybe other sizes exists also, I'll check into it..what is the gubcentric diameter of our hubs? Something like 70 mm right???
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Jun 5, 2005 at 11:02 AM.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with spacers if used correctly. I installed longer wheel studs because I wasn't happy with the amount of threads available for the nut to thread onto. You have to be very careful when using spacers and check your lug torque often.
No one, I am still looking for a set of 1/2" billet ones. There are 1/4" and 1/2" adapters available for bimmers (from Eibach & H&R), their bolt circle is really close to ours so you could massage the holes to fit (it's only .3mm off if I remember correctly) and if you have thicker wheel studs you could just redrill and it wouldn't be visible at all. You would have to loose the hubcentric ridge and make sure the spacers are for the larger bimmer hub, there are 72,5 and 78 mm ones..maybe other sizes exists also, I'll check into it..what is the gubcentric diameter of our hubs? Something like 70 mm right???
Look at D+W in Bochum, they sell 3/4" thick spacers made from steel (yes, steel, not aluminum - these are heavy). You could machine these down to 1/2" thickness without loosing strength - the backside can be machined flush with the pressed in studs. when you look at their website, these spacers are for a 84 and up Corvette - hubcentric and approved by the German TUV....
these are 300 per axle, 15mm per side - for a GM "Trans Sport" - probably has the correct bolt pattern...
http://www.duw.de/shop/(ftugpp55jxywr3rjvph5fdrp)/detailview.aspx?ID=38339
These are from PowerTech - availalble in 20mm and 25mm thickness, steel or alu...
D&W LOL...ricer tuning I may take a look but steel sucks, I want aluminium. Do you have a part # for those? They may be nice as an intermediate solution.
The trans-sport has a 4 bolt pattern, not 5.
C4 vettes have thicker studs than us, I have 1/2" studs on the wheels so I'll need to re-drill anything that's available out there.
The last page had 40mm as the smallest size and at 138 Euros for 2..kind of a rip off
Who makes billet 1/4" spacers? I was looking for those but couldn't find any 1/4" billet spacers!
I would assume that spacer are just punched out of aluminum plate??
Twin Turbo they are easy to make with your fabricating skills.
I use them in 1/4 inch and 3/8th inch to fine tune a wheel. I also make a seperate hub that I press on the existing spindle hub and fits the inside of the rim.
These are 2 seperate pieces.
D&W LOL...ricer tuning I may take a look but steel sucks, I want aluminium. Do you have a part # for those? They may be nice as an intermediate solution.
The trans-sport has a 4 bolt pattern, not 5.
C4 vettes have thicker studs than us, I have 1/2" studs on the wheels so I'll need to re-drill anything that's available out there.
The last page had 40mm as the smallest size and at 138 Euros for 2..kind of a rip off
80 out of the 138 Euros is for the ABE (TUV papers) that you get with these - the Powertech spacers are the only ones that they sell made from steel. I would not cut the soft aluminum down to the desired thickness.
The design of these 4-bolt spacers is not bad, hubcentric to both (axle and wheel) - all you need is longer studs.
If I only had a lathe... ... you have one, correct ? These are so simple to make....
I think that it's more a matter of fabrication tools rather than skills... With the right tools, anybody could fabricate them. However, who's spend $100's of $ to make a $10 spacer?
I would assume that spacer are just punched out of aluminum plate??
Twin Turbo they are easy to make with your fabricating skills.
I use them in 1/4 inch and 3/8th inch to fine tune a wheel. I also make a seperate hub that I press on the existing spindle hub and fits the inside of the rim.
These are 2 seperate pieces.
Yes, if I had a lathe..which I don't Care to make some for me?
I'l have to pull a back wheel and see if I can get a pick to show. My rear spacers are ~3/8" thick (aluminum) and the hub has been drilled and tapped so the spacer is attached to the hub with machine screws. Anybody else have this? It was like that when I bought the car and was in place when the car was running high 9's through the quarter and there were never any problems.