When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have downloaded the papers from corvettefaq about how to replace the ignition lock in the column. I have been able to remove the steering wheel and turnsignal assembly from '76 std. column. The lock will not pull out when I depress the spring at the top. I have removed the buzzer warning. The keys are so worn that they slide out in any position.
Does anyone have any advice. Do I completely remove the column from the car or use a dead slammer to remove the lock?
Do I completely remove the column from the car or use a dead slammer to remove the lock?
DON'T use the slammer, you could break off the piece internal to the column. Make sure the light metal tab that holds the keylock in is completely broken thru with a small screw driver. That should release it.. I have taken a few apart, and sometimes really had to wrangle the keylock. I'm sure Jim Shea, column guru, will chime in.. Don't slam it..
This may or not help, but the last ignition key lock I removed was on a '79 Regal and it had a set screw that ran perpendicluar to the ignition lock. It had to be removed before the cylinder could slide out.
I have downloaded the papers from corvettefaq about how to replace the ignition lock in the column. I have been able to remove the steering wheel and turnsignal assembly from '76 std. column. The lock will not pull out when I depress the spring at the top. I have removed the buzzer warning. The keys are so worn that they slide out in any position.
Does anyone have any advice. Do I completely remove the column from the car or use a dead slammer to remove the lock?
I am relying on memory here, but don't you have to insert the key, turn it to accessory (counterclockwise) and then pull the ignition cylinder out?
Gary
Starting in 1979 the lock cylinder was changed so that it comes out only after you remove a screw in the housing.
Have you broken the metal skin that covers the rectangular slot? The slot is shown in the picture at the end of the D&R instructions.
The locking wedge that is part of the lock cylinder has a spring that presses on it right in the center. You need to push directly down on the center of the wedge. If you push on one side or the other, it can **** to one side and still prevent the cylinder from sliding out. Once the wedge is depressed, the lock cylinder should come right out.
Starting in 1979 the lock cylinder was changed so that it comes out only after you remove a screw in the housing.
Have you broken the metal skin that covers the rectangular slot? The slot is shown in the picture at the end of the D&R instructions.
I am guessing what Jim refers to is the key to your problem. I had the same problem and spent a lot of timed figuring out where I had to punch thru the metal flashing that covers the slot he refers to, but once I did, it came right out per the directions.
Make sure the light metal tab that holds the keylock in is completely broken thru with a small screw driver. That should release it..
That's the metal 'skin' I'm talkin about. Look down into the column and you'll see it. The tab/wedge is right under there. Push down in the center with a small driver..If someone was there before, it may already be broken thru, and you just push down on the wedge to compress the spring..
Checkout the pix
Last edited by OldSchool; Jun 7, 2005 at 05:22 PM.
Thanks for the help. I did have to break the flashing and then after I finally found a screwdriver thin enough it just popped out like you said it would.
Once again thanks for everyone's help. I hope I can return the favors one day.