C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jul 5, 2005 | 07:35 PM
  #21  
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From: East China MI
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painterman52,
You said you have "cheap" headers so go ahead and wrap them. If they rust out, buy new ones.
A trans cooler was mentioned; think about it, your not more than 8" from that hot trans.
Good ideas already metioned:
Insulation
Heat Shields
Valve off Heater (cheap and easy)
Plug any holes in the firewall and trans tunnel
Get cold air to the motor (whether you live in Texas or Alaska)
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Old Jul 5, 2005 | 07:37 PM
  #22  
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From: East China MI
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painterman52,
You said you have "cheap" headers so go ahead and wrap them. If they rust out, buy new ones.
A trans cooler was mentioned; think about it, your not more than 8" from that hot trans.
Good ideas already metioned:
Insulation
Heat Shields
Valve off Heater (cheap and easy)
Plug any holes in the firewall and trans tunnel
Get cold air to the motor (whether you live in Texas or Alaska)

Reply
Old Jul 5, 2005 | 08:46 PM
  #23  
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I installed a trans cooler & it helped a lot. plus the weatherv got cooler. I will look for any holes to plug. Thanks for all the suggestions.
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 09:22 AM
  #24  
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From: Austin Texas
Default header wrap

FYI, I have seen header wrap cause the header tube metal to crystalize and become very brittle. Possibly because they can't radiate heat and they super-heat? Anyways, I have read installation instructions that come with headers stating that the warranty is void if any type of header wrap is used......
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 09:46 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by big_G
FYI, I have seen header wrap cause the header tube metal to crystalize and become very brittle. Possibly because they can't radiate heat and they super-heat? Anyways, I have read installation instructions that come with headers stating that the warranty is void if any type of header wrap is used......
Yep...I posted that early on in this thread with a quote from Hooker. But the "experts" chose to ignore that and give bad advice to everyone. Oh well. They obviously are smarter than the people who actually build the stuff

Dep
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 10:00 AM
  #26  
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Headers do create more heat than the stock cast iron manifolds simply bacause the headers have more surface area that emits the heat within the tubes. Best bet (IMO) is coated headrs and insulate the cabin all possible.

I know that most guys will disagree, but removing a portion of the radiator seal at the sides and/or top allows better air movement through the engine bay. That makes a big difference in underhood temps.
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 01:45 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Ak. Mal
I just finished wrapping my headers. I bought a kit that Summit sells. It is made by a company called DEI. The kit included two 2"x50' rolls of heat wrap, eight 4" steel zip ties, four 8" steel zip ties and a can of black silicone high temp paint for $80.

All I have left to do is install the oil dipstick tube and the temp sending unit for my secondary water temp guage.

My feet would cook if I drove for extended periods of time over 65mph. That is why I wrapped the headers. I also took a piece of sheet metal and bent a curve into it and attached it to the topside of the exhaust as it runs under the floor boards to use as heat shields. I'm anxious to get the car down off the jackstands and see what difference all this work did.

And by the way, unhooking and reattaching the headers was not that difficult. Getting them in and out of the engine bay was a total bitch.

I had to remove cluth linkage and bend and twist in all sorts of ways to get the damned things out.
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