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I`ve got a set of cheap headers on my car. It is very hot driving, with the tops on it is almost unbearable. Would ceramic coated be cooler or do they just look nice?
A lot of guys on the forum use varying types of insulation under their carpet to cool the seating area...search for these, that may be a better solution to your problem.
Sort of an off topic question: How much do ceramic or Jet-hot headers reduce underhood temps as compared to cast iron manifolds?
I notice on my car that as soon as things warm up, I lose horsepower and throttle response, and I think it has to do with underhood temps.
There was a post not too long ago who showed what happened to his headers after 2 years being wrapped with header wrap...pretty rusted out. I think that that is a better idea for race cars trying to keep under hood temps down without spending the money on ceramic coating, and not street cars...but that's my opinion. Seriously, look into some of the reflective material that they sell at Lowe's, Home Depot etc, and think about installing that.
Should I use exhaust wrap on my Hooker Headers?
If your vehicle is being run on the street or for extended periods of time, you should never wrap headers. Exhaust wraps insulate the exhaust too much and the exhaust temperature is raised to a level that fatigues the header material causing cracks.
If under hood temperatures are an issue, we recommend using Hooker's Metallic Ceramic Thermal Barrier Coating. Our coating is applied inside and out. It is corrosion and heat resistant up to 1600°F. It also reduces underhood temperatures and has a polished high luster finish. Holding exhaust temperatures inside the header increases the exhaust gas velocity producing more horsepower.
You can purchase any Hooker header with our Metallic Ceramic Thermal Barrier Coating by adding a -1 to the end of the part number. We don't just coat Hooker products. Custom coating services are also available. Call our Tech line at (270) 781-9741 for a quote.
Hmm. When I was messing with my timing yesterday I managed to have it retarded enough (the timing, not me) to get the middle two glowing cherry red. What little chrome that was left is pretty well gone now . No cracks or other problems yet though.
72 Stingray Owner,
The rule of thumb is 1% HP gain or loss for every 10 degree change in intake air temp. As your underhood temp increases 100 degrees, you lose 10% of your HP.
Find a way to get cool air to your carb. Setups from late 70s C3s can be adapted.
72 Stingray Owner,
The rule of thumb is 1% HP gain or loss for every 10 degree change in intake air temp. As your underhood temp increases 100 degrees, you lose 10% of your HP.
Find a way to get cool air to your carb. Setups from late 70s C3s can be adapted.
Yeah, but what if you live in Texas? We've been hitting 100F pretty regularly of late ...
Maybe it's time to become a Summer Tourist in Wisconsin ...
TallGirl,
When it's 100 degrees in Austin, its probably about the same temp as your radiator under the hood or about 200. So a cold air system still is worth 10%.
I swapped out the stock '81 tubular manifolds & steel exhaust pipes for Dynomax ceramic coated Headers & made an exhaust systm out of stainless tube. I haven't measured temps ever, but I'm sure that cabin temps have decreased. This is backed up by my regular passenger.
MY headers have been wrapped for more then 10 years. I do not drive in the rain. I found it made a big big difference in under hood temperatures and will wrap the next set when the time comes. For heat control I don't believe a ceramic coat can match wrapping. Even after extensive running on the expressways and I get to a car show I lift the hood and if you brush one of the hot header tubes you don't burn yourself, hot yes but you don't blister the skin.
The real reason for a hot interior is heat being allowed to enter the cabin. Headers or stock manifolds; both create heat and that heat should not be allowed to enter the cabin. Check the fire wall and seal all holes going thru no matter how small. If you have A/C, run it in the MAX setting. It is the only setting that is supposed to completely shut off the heater shutoff valve to keep heated air from blending with your A/C air. Speaking of heater shutoff valves they normally do not work the way they should; install ballcock shutoff valves on both heater hoses to eliminate the possibility of the heater core having heated coolant in it during the hotest months of the year. The vent door on the passenger side kick panel can be sucked open at highways speeds and allow hot outside air to enter. I tape mine shut during the summer. Other things people do to help reduce cabin temps is to install a heat barrier behind the firewall, on the floors and over the tranny cover. Also running side exhausts removes the heat from the underside of the car. All these things help C3's have cooler cabins.
Bernie
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
I just finished wrapping my headers. I bought a kit that Summit sells. It is made by a company called DEI. The kit included two 2"x50' rolls of heat wrap, eight 4" steel zip ties, four 8" steel zip ties and a can of black silicone high temp paint for $80.
All I have left to do is install the oil dipstick tube and the temp sending unit for my secondary water temp guage.
My feet would cook if I drove for extended periods of time over 65mph. That is why I wrapped the headers. I also took a piece of sheet metal and bent a curve into it and attached it to the topside of the exhaust as it runs under the floor boards to use as heat shields. I'm anxious to get the car down off the jackstands and see what difference all this work did.
And by the way, unhooking and reattaching the headers was not that difficult. Getting them in and out of the engine bay was a total bitch.
I am using Hooker super comp. headers coated by Jet hot inside and out. That and 2 1/2 true duals brought my cabin heat down. A cheaper option is Dynomax headers treated by Jet Hot. Al