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front passenger side developed a heavy squeaking out of nowhere. upon further investigation i noticed my lower ball joint boot is torn and grease is all over the joint and surrounding area. is it safe to assume it is the ball joint making that noise and that it is shot? I cant get a read on the squeak as far as exact location but with even minimal up/down motion it makes a racket. suspension was rebuilt during frame off 4,000 miles ago including new lower ball joints. is it standard practice to replace both sides(wheels) or does it matter? also, assuming it is ball joint, is there an upgraded version over stock? thanks, Dave
With only 4,000 miles on the ball joints I would think it could be something else, but with the torn boot maybe the joint has been damaged and with no grease for some time.. I'd replace the ball joint, it's a pretty easy job since you rebuilt them not too long ago....JMO
Check the control arm bushings. If they look dry or caked with grime that could be the source of the squeak. Mine was squeaking even when getting in the car, and I am not real heavy. The guy I bought the car from put poly bushings on and he might not have used any grease, there was thin layer of rust between the bushing and the casing when i got them out. I replaced the old poly bushings with new poly and used the supplied grease and they don't make a sound. Just an alternative to the ball joint theory. You could break the ball joint loose(watch out for the spring) and raise up on the control arms by hand and see if they are squeaking. If not, the ball joint or at least the boot can be replaced.
good luck,
Mike
...on the spring,should I use a spring compression tool to hold it?
that or a floor jack under the lower control arm with a block of wood or other form of padding. I used a floor jack under the control arm and compressed the spring a little to get the lower ball joint free from the steering knuckle. Once the steering knuckle ect. are out of the way I SLOWLY let the jack down and the spring was removed. Don't forget to remove shock first. Reinstalling the spring was a two man job for me,(easier that way) one to hold the spring in proper place (look to see how it sits in the top and bottom before you take it apart) and one to jack the control arm back up. Only cost me two beers, six if you count the ones I drank. I've never used a spring compression tool but I hear they have to be positioned just right in a C3 to work well. other people could help with that or check past threads. FYI if it is the bushings you will probably have to take them somewhere to get them pressed in and out.
Hope this helps. I am not an authority on the subject by any means, just what I did and it worked good for me.
thanks for the help everyone. it gives me some clues to the puzzle. on the spring,should I use a spring compression tool to hold it?
I find it much better to use an acme threaded rod out of an old tripod jack to remove the front springs. You put the rod through the shock tower from the top and through the bottom of the a-arm with a steel bar to bridge the hole where the shock mounts.
There is NO WAY the spring can get away and both the compression and relaxation of the spring is totally controlled.