I've got a '72 454/4-spd that was 90% restored (body/chrome left) and it sat for about 4 years after the resto.

Started driving it again, and with enough miles on it, finally started going WOT with it. Well the clutch was spinning, or so I thought. Brand new (500-800 miles) Centerforce II clutch disk and pressure plate (the gold colored one.) 4th gear (3.08 gears) and 2,000 rpm would just spin to redline in a second or two, 99.9999% sure it was NOT the tires.

So I pulled it all apart and the clutch looks brand new. No hot spots on the flywheel or PP, the clutch material looks perfect.

So, could the clutch linkage (Z-rod) been out of adjustment? I've never worked with manual clutchs, always hydralic style.

Another thing, I have a GMPP late model crate motor (425hp 465 tq) with the mechanical fuel pump boss, but no hole/mount for the clutch linkage. The shop that did all the work bought a plate that mounts to the two lower bellhousing to motor bolts and then the clutch linkage Z-bar bolts to that.

Problem with this setup is that the Z-bar nut is jammed into the side of the block and they had the adapter plate spaced out with 5 or 6 washers between the bellhousing and the adapter plate with the bolt. This caused the upper (of these two lower bolts) to be jammed into the firewall. To remove the bellhousing I had to remove the drivers side motor mount and raise/lower the motor to access and remove that bolt.

Is there any other way to activate/control the clutch?

I am now thinking about the Keisler 5-spd swap, but it seems that uses the same clutch linkage to control everything...

I just can't see putting the stock Muncie shift linkage back together...

Please help... and thank you.

 

What headers are available and work well with these cars?

'72 454 4-spd (for now, possible Keisler 5-spd in the near future)

I have always been happy with Hooker Super Comp headers (although I have some new Kook's for my '96 Camaro that are very nice, but would be overkill for a "cruiser")

So, any snags on installation? Any parts that headers wont work with or make worse? I will be having them coated in a high temp coating (inside and outside) with a black ceramic coating.

I don't want sidepipes... well ok, I DO, but don't want to spend the money or modify the car past what it looks like (appearance wise.)

I will be having a new exhaust system built up (hopefully with mandrel bent pipes) with some Borla mufflers.

Are there any companies that make pre-made mandrel bent exhausts for these cars? And what size tubing can I use for the exhaust, going through the framerail and such?

I'm sure the 2.5" pipes would be ok, but 3" would probably be overkill for this motor.

 

You DO need to have the correct T/O bearing and Clutch Fork Pivot Ball to get the CF clutches to work correctly. Sounds like you do not and the clutch is definately not fully engaging.

 

I recently had to replace my cracked bell housing. The replacement I got was the same casting number but the clutch fork pivot ball was about 1/8" longer. The engine builder I got the bellhousing from told me if I didn't swap in my original pivot ball my clutch would not work properly, and we are only talking 1/8".

 

Well, as far as I know, the clutch fork pivot ball is stock/factory, but might have been replaced when the car was gone through.

So are there different style/lengths of the pivot ***** for different clutches?

 

ZO Sic

Our 5 speed conversions work well with either the factory clutch linkage or with our optional concentric hydraulic t/o bearing assembly. It is a very slick setup with a new clutch master and single-line t/o bearing that travels along the input shaft. It works better and lasts longer than the fork and linkage setup and it is even self adjusting.

Robert "The Driven Man"
Keisler Engineering
423-773-9789 direct
865-609-8187 ext 280