To replace my hydraulic flat tappet with a Roller, the entire block has to be torn down, is this correct?

 

Why?? YOu are just replaceing the cam and lifters. The intake comes off but not the heads, springs can be changed while on the engine without a problem.
You need to remove the waterpump, the timing chain, of coarse the rad and hood to working space. The front 4 bolts on the oil pan should be loosened to get the timing cover off.
NO the motor doesn't have to be totatlly stripped down.

 

I thought the block had to be machined to accommodate the new roller cam.
Currently I have an XE268H CC in there right now. I am looking to be close to 500hp with my engine. The specs are:
Forged 383 crank
Forged flat top pistons
Forged connecting rods
190 AFR heads
Edelbrock RPM performer
Q-Jet
4-speed
Dynomax 1 5/8" headers
What kind of roller cam would you all suggest to achieve 500hp?

 

No, you don't need to machine the block. You will need a retro-fit set of lifters, they have a tie bar to keep the lifter from turning in the bore.

You may be talking about trying to use factory lifters which would be a waste of time and money.

Realistically, I don't think an honest 500hp is attainable, probably in the neighborhood of 450-480hp. You would have to run a pretty ratty cam to get there, and you didn't mention if driveability is an issue, but I will assume it is.

I would probably run something in the 230 - 240 degree range at .050. .550lift, 110ls.

 

How many cc are your AFR 190 heads? Are you going to use H-rollers?

 

I believe 68cc.
H Rollers?

 

Hydraulic rollers vs solid rollers.

I like this Crane Cams in my original 383 build


Part Number: 118571 Grind Number: SR-232/350-2S-12.90 IG
Engine Identification:
Start Yr. End Yr. Make Cyl Description
1957 1987 CHEVROLET 8 FAIR IDLE, MODERATE PERFORMANCE USAGE, GOOD MID-RANGE TORQUE AND HP, MILD BRACKET RACING, AUTO TRANS W/3000+ CONVERTER, 3400-3800 CRUISE RPM, 10.5 TO 11.5 COMPRESSION RATIO ADVISED, .900" BASE CIRCLE FOR LONG STROKE CLEARANCE. BASIC RPM 3000-6500
Engine Size Configuration
262-400 C.I. V

Valve Setting: Intake .020 Exhaust .020 HOT

Lift: Intake @Cam 350 @Valve 525 All Lifts are based
on zero lash and theoretical rocker arm ratios.
Exhaust @ Cam 362 @Valve 543
Rocker Arm Ratio 1.50

Cam Timing: TAPPET @.015
Lift: Opens Closes ADV Duration
Intake 36.0 BTDC 70.0 ABDC 286 °
Exhaust 84.0 BBDC 30.0 ATDC 294 °

Spring Requirements: Triple Dual Outer Inner
Part Number 96870
Loads Closed 2400 LBS @ 134 or 1.900
Open 1 29/32 LBS @ 6600
Recommended RPM range with matching components
Minimum RPM 348
Maximum RPM 1.400
Valve Float 6800

Cam Timing: TAPPET @.050
Lift: Opens Closes Max Lift Duration
Intake 9.0 BTDC 43.0 ABDC 107 232 °
Exhaust 57.0 BBDC 3.0 ATDC 117 240 °

 

Oh, Hydraulic.

 

Like george said you can switch to retro roller lifters and change the springs in the car,i run comp cams retor rollers lifters comps hardened shorter pushrods in mine.Im changing cam this winter to something bigger.ALso used a crane roller cam button.

 

Pat what do you have and what are you changing to?

Crane has the same grind in the H-roller version. I'm actually running an h-roller cam with Solid rollers on it.

 

How do you get away with solids on a hydraulic cam?? I thought the solid cams were specially ground with take up rams start and finish to ease the valves open and closed?? Hydraulic relied on the plunger acting as a cushion???

 

I finally got to talk to someone knowledgable at comp cams. Norval your right about how the lobe is ground. The trick is to run a tight lash of .010 - .012. He explained to me that if the lash opens up - it will just beat everything up. I've noticed that it has trouble holding the lash. I've already had to make adjustments 4-5 times in 1000 miles

My last solid cam was an extreeme ramp design and this is an extreeme ramp design. But the new tight lash just makes it so quiet when it's operating.

 

george im still running the zz4 roller cam 510 lift but im building a new 383 for the winter so the cam will go in that with my retro rollers.

 

This will give you an idea on what parts are needed to attain 500hp from a stroker.....http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Chev...s/383-500.html

 

What you mean, retro rollers?

 

retro style lifters are for older blocks that want to run a roller cam,they have bars that connect them togther.

 

I have a similar 383 setup:
Forged crank
Forged flat top pistons 10:1 ratio
Forged connecting rods
195 AFR heads
Victor Jr. Intake

I used a Comp Cam XR280R.
You can see my dyno sheet in My Corvette Photos.

 

Pat, guys, I remember a thread in here where some guys showed pix of failed toggles, allowing the lifter to rotate, and of course wiped out everything instantly....I personally would NEVER use a set of retro/toggle lifters, can't trust them...flimsey design IMO....I have an '89 truck factory 4 bolt block, it's a rolller design with stock lifters, and ZZ9 TPIS cam from 8 years ago....still ok...

GENE

 

You need a 12-433-8 Cam and 853-16 Retro-Lifters (assuming you have an early block). The hardest part of your project will be setting the cam button/end play, especially in the vehicle. You'll need at least a 750CFM carb, we end up with 850's on new builds. And on a final note, whatever horsepower number you have in mind, subtract about 20, that's what the 1.625 headers will cost you. If you do stay with the pipes, then stay with the smaller carb (750). Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
PS This combo with the right carb and headers should be in the 500HP neighborhood. We have many of these out there for about 6 years now. And we haven't had a single cam/lifter failure yet. We've done many "freshen-ups" and reused all the valve train components. Part of the reasoning behind this, is that most cars don't see over 9000/10000 miles per year. It's a little tough getting to the right "tech guys" unless you know someone inside. We don't use many "book-grinds" on the cams, more are ordered by us by lobe specs.