Thought that I would narrow down my weak start ('75) by running it over to the local AutoZone on my lunchbreak, where you are not allowed to work unless you're an idiot (I'm pretty sure it's just this particular store), and get the battery tested.

"Sure," the nice man says, "just pull your car up and we'll test it."

So, I go outside and *click* - no juice.

20 minutes later, we drag the battery tester to the car, where my battery registers a robust 12.59 volts. Nuts. The battery's fine. I walk to the subway station and I'm back at work, sweating like a hog.

I'm thinking now that it is almost certainly the starter, and since this is my daily driver, I can't have fun and tinker like the amateur I am - I have to drop a couple hundred bucks on labor to get my car back on the road.

But, of course, I'm not taking it in before posting here. Does it definitely sound like the starter now? Weak starts (sometimes accompanied by a metal-on-metal chirp) for the past couple of weeks and four jump starts (today, the fourth, is the only one that didn't get me going). Not cranking at all today and the battery is good.

I just hope I still have all my flywheel teeth.

 

I would check your grounds first. Then make sure your cables are clean and tight. If that checks out OK, then it is likely the starter. I have had poor luck with starters and alternators from the 'Zone. I get Delco rebuilt from Advance or O'Reilleys. NAPA starters are also OK.

 

Check and clean you battery connections!

 

Thanks!

If I do the starter, I'll run it up to a local Corvette shop near my office.

Can I check the grounds & connections on my own (with no knowledge or experience) ? Any documents for idiots out there someone can post?

Thanks!
JCJ

 

Solenoid spring....typical...no crank...but battery good...or grounds as others suggest....

 

OK fill us in on your 'weak start' situation.

1 - Hot or cold or always?
2 - Does it indeed crank over, but just slowly?


If the thing won't crank at all, no noise from the solenoid, (Clicking) then make sure your neutral-saftey switch isn't keeping it from cranking over. Failing that, make sure all connections and grounds are good.

If the car turns over but won't start, it's a tune issue.

If the car turns over normal speed when cold, but turns over too slowly to start it, when the engine is hot, then replace the starter.

 

Thanks Paul. The past 2 weeks it has been cranking slowly...
instead of....
ch-ch-ch-VROOM!
it has been...
rrr-rrr-rrr-rrr-rrrrrrr-VROOM!
and sometimes
rrr-rrr-rrr-rrr-rrrrrrr-VROOM (SCREEEECH)!

hope that makes sense.

Several times (4 in the past couple weeks) it has not cranked at all - a jump got it going every time except today. Hot/cold hasn't seemed to make a difference, although the weather has been signifacantly hotter the past couple of weeks. I dunno.

Thanks,
JCJ

 

I initially would have said heat soak..but from what you say, it could be that the starter is just plain wearing out.
As for the screech, this could also be a symptom of a starter on its last legs. Sounds like the pinion gear does not retract quick enough and screeching on the flexplate.

 

Here's what I dont understand:
Why would a bad starter be fixed by a jump?

My theory:
Bad starter sucks the juice out of the battery, and unless I drive it for a bit, battery cant recharge enough to energize the starter the next time.

Just a guess - is that possible?

 

Check cables first! My pos cable was loose/coroded and I had the same symptoms as you. I cut the end off and put a generic terminal on, tightened, and it has worked ever since.

If you need a starter DON'T go to a Vette shop to get it fixed! Fix it yourself (30 minute job) or any corner garage will do it for you for 1/3 the price of a "Vette shop".

 

Thanks guys! I'll take a look.

Again - I'm an amateur, but I aint the dumbest guy in the world and I aint the smartest. Battery cables connect to the battery securely - where else should I look? Connections to the starter? How do I check the ground? Any links to to this stuff?

 

I thought your battery was supposed to be at/around 14.4 volts. 12.5 volts sometimes won't turn the starter. Especially if you have a little crust or loose battery terminals. But 12.5 volts doesn't sound right. Mine tests at 14.38 volts.

 

14.38 volts is what you read while the engine is running because that's what your alternator is putting out.

12.5-12.6 volts indicates a charged battery

12.3 volts indicates a low charged battery

tbw

 

There are 3 wires on my 75's starter. 2 connect to one post on the starter and the other (smaller) connects to a smaller post (very obvious). I suppose if these became loose/dirty it could cause problems.

There is a ground that connects to the frame near the passenger side exhaust.

The thing about replacing a starter on a 75 is that the exhaust pipe (if its stock) crosses over the oil pan and the starter woudl be damn near impossible to get out without dropping the exhaust, at least cutting it and having it re-welded. It would be time consuming to cut it, and re attach it. Shop might be best to get it done quickly. Agreed that a vette shop is not needed, simple Chevy 350 repair.

I always hate trying to figure out what the problem is, that is usually the hardest part. Starter, cable or battery.

Oh also BTW I dont know how vato-zones battery tester works, but a bad battery can still read 12v. When you try to crank the car it may drop alot. That woudl be an indication of a bad battery is to test it under load. Their tester may account for that, dunno.

 

I am NOT confident that the guy that did the test knew what he was doing. I'll get my own voltmeter (I understand that they're not to expensive) and test myself - at the battery terminals and at the starter.

Anyone else have a problem getting to the starter around the exhaust? '75 has the 2-1-2 setup.

JCJ

 

Most good auto repair shops have a couple of gauges (inductive ammeters) that slip right over the battery cables and will tell you the current flow for diagnosing starter/charging problems. One is for testing starters and the other more sensitive gauge is for testing the charging circuit. A great diagnostic set and not terribly expensive, approximately $55. A useful addition to any mechanic's tool kit.
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By placing the starter ammeter over the battery cable while cranking (or attempting to) you will get a reading on your starter. The starter when working should pull something less than 200 amps (most shop manuals will tell you what the starter should pull). A bad starter in my experience will almost always bury the needle (600 amps). I don't think I've ever read near 300 amps on any starter. It's either 200 or less - or it buries the needle. This tends to take all of the guessing out of it.

I would verify that all my connections are solid - battery, frame connections (don't forget the ground cable on the engine near the right motor mount) and of course the positive connection on the solenoid. If they are all good, either switch the battery for a known good one, or at least jump it before performing the starter check. (I like to switch them, because a bad battery can easily draw current from a good one and confuse the test.)

If the starter checks good by not pulling excessive amps, I would then look at the battery. Either it isn't being charged, or it is a bad battery. You can use the second inductive amp gauge to test the charging circuit. Place it on the battery cable with the engine off and pull on the headlights. This will show a draw on the battery and give you a reference direction on your gauge. Remove the gauge (so as not to overload it during start - 100 amps) and start the car. Put it back on the cable as before and check the needle. It should now be moving in the opposite direction indicating the charging system is working. If it moves in the same direction as before the battery is still being drained. (A good voltage check on the alternator should also show it reading 14 volts +or- .5 volts when working properly.)

Good luck… GUSTO