Need some help removing my headers
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 3
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Need some help removing my headers
I got my header heat wrap kit from Summit yesterday and ran out to the garage to start removing the headers. Still trying to figure out what made me think this would be an easy project. 
I started with the passenger side. I have removed the spark plugs and all the bolts holding the header and the collecter in place. I had to remove my mech. temp sending unit from the rear of the head. Now I need to remove the oil dipstick. Do I just unbolt it from the side of the block and pull it up? Do I have to remove the starter and pull the header out from under the car?
I looked at the drivers side.
I just did a search and to remove the Z-bar I just need to remove the two pins and the bar will fall out and clear the path?
Just to make certain, both headers have to come out from below the car? Is there anything else I need to do or beware of when removing them?
I started with the passenger side. I have removed the spark plugs and all the bolts holding the header and the collecter in place. I had to remove my mech. temp sending unit from the rear of the head. Now I need to remove the oil dipstick. Do I just unbolt it from the side of the block and pull it up? Do I have to remove the starter and pull the header out from under the car?
I looked at the drivers side.
I just did a search and to remove the Z-bar I just need to remove the two pins and the bar will fall out and clear the path?Just to make certain, both headers have to come out from below the car? Is there anything else I need to do or beware of when removing them?
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Most headers come out from the bottom so you need the car up on stands.
Header wrap goes alot easier if you soak the wrap in the laundry sink for about 15 minutes before trying to wrap the pipes. Soaking makes the wrap more pliable and it wraps tighter and neater. I tried it dry at first and was not impressed so I tried soaking and it really worked alot better.
Start at the header flange, working each tube down to the collector.
This is probably 10 years old. The only clamp I used was at the collector. At the header flange I just wraped the first round with a second and started down the tubes without clamping in any way. Mine are 11 or 12 years old and I will redo them this winter.
Header wrap goes alot easier if you soak the wrap in the laundry sink for about 15 minutes before trying to wrap the pipes. Soaking makes the wrap more pliable and it wraps tighter and neater. I tried it dry at first and was not impressed so I tried soaking and it really worked alot better.
Start at the header flange, working each tube down to the collector.
This is probably 10 years old. The only clamp I used was at the collector. At the header flange I just wraped the first round with a second and started down the tubes without clamping in any way. Mine are 11 or 12 years old and I will redo them this winter.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 3
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
So, to start I wrap the primary tube near the flange and put a tie around it. How do I secure the end near the collector? Is secured by the wrap that goes around the collector?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,045
Likes: 4
From: Yorktown VA
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I just wondering why you had to remove so much to get the headers out? 
Mine come off by just removing the eight headers bolts on each header and the three bolts at the collector/reducer. maybe yours are different. 
Mine come off by just removing the eight headers bolts on each header and the three bolts at the collector/reducer. maybe yours are different.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I don't even use a wrap at the header flange. I just make a couple of wraps trapping the start under the next layer and worked my way down. I did 3 pipes just to the collector ending slightly on the collector. The 4th pipe I left the wrap really long and after doing the tube kept right on going over the ends of the other 3 pipes and on over the collector and then used a clamp on this end.
I only used a tridon hose clamp on the one end, no other wraps or ties elsewhere.
I only used a tridon hose clamp on the one end, no other wraps or ties elsewhere.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 3
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
I bought a kit from Summit that includes, 2 50' rolls, 8 small & 4 large metal ties and a can of black high temp paint. I guess I have the option of painting the wrap black as opposed to leaving it looking like my headers have ace bandages all over them.
I really like that idea of not cutting the wrap on the fourth primary tube and running it straight down onto the collector.
I removed the spark plugs to avoid breaking them while removing the headers. Everything else that I have or will remove is strictly because it's in my way and I can't get around it. I have long tube headers. The flange on the collector is under the floorpan just below the toepan.
I really like that idea of not cutting the wrap on the fourth primary tube and running it straight down onto the collector.
I removed the spark plugs to avoid breaking them while removing the headers. Everything else that I have or will remove is strictly because it's in my way and I can't get around it. I have long tube headers. The flange on the collector is under the floorpan just below the toepan.
