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Progressive linkage for tripower?

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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 03:12 PM
  #1  
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Default Progressive linkage for tripower?

I am working toward replacing my 427/435 in my car. The carbs have the vacuum pots on them, but the previous owner gave me a new progressive linkage setup.

Although much is orginal on the car and drivetrain, much is not...I'll be running headers for instance.

Question is whether I should use the progressive linkage setup or the vacuum setup. If progressive, tips are appreciated.
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 04:09 PM
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No opinion on which way you should go because I don't want to spend the next 5 days debating and defending myself.... but

When the vacuum setup is adjusted by a competent mechanic, it works flawlessly and will only deliver the amount of fuel your engine can use at any one time. It's pretty smooth when set up correct. When Bubba gets his hands on it, it will never work right.

If you use progressive, you will have more control over the "events", but can also have a tough time getting the right mixture at the right time dialed in. The -factory- GM BB Trips do not have idle adjustments on the outboard carbs as the progressive linhage factory 390 Ford setup did (1962 T-Bird). This can make a difference as well.

I have used both..... I designed my own progressive linkage when I first learned Calculus in high school (to get the length of the levers correct for my desired outboard tip in). I had progressive on a 1959 Ford 292 and on a 1966 Ford 390 (1962 factory progressive).

I had 427 Factory Trips on my 454 and they will be going back on this summer.
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 04:37 PM
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Holy crap!!! I actually AGREE WITH TOM!!!! Somebody check...I think hell just froze over!!!!

Stay with vacuum. I had vacuum on a 1970 Super Bee with 3 Holleys and 4.10 gear. When I stomped on it the gear snapped the two outboard carbs open immediately. Acceleration was awesome for a big oaf. I mean the car...not me

Dep
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Old Jun 16, 2005 | 05:20 PM
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From what I remember of the Pontiacs and Ford FE blocks, you want the vacuum secondaries for any kind of drive-ability, unless all you do is go fast for 10+ seconds on a quarter-mile strip. I still have a nice Pontiac setup in the attic...
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 07:33 AM
  #5  
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Tom454
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Originally Posted by DJ Dep
Holy crap!!! I actually AGREE WITH TOM!!!! Somebody check...I think hell just froze over!!!!

Stay with vacuum. I had vacuum on a 1970 Super Bee with 3 Holleys and 4.10 gear. When I stomped on it the gear snapped the two outboard carbs open immediately. Acceleration was awesome for a big oaf. I mean the car...not me

Dep
Heh heh.... yeh...

I remember the ride you gave me in your Super Bee and I said that on purpose just to get a reaction out of you.

Chortle chortle.

My BB Chevy Trips are modified & have baseplates with adjustable idle circuits. Some people also claim to use the Ford type parts on the BB Chevy setup..... so they have metering blocks on the two outside carbs instead of the OEM non-adjustable metering plates. Space is tight between carbs though.

K&N also makes a triangular air filter for the GM OEM TiPower.
Mine got lost in the move but I haven't given up hope on finding it.

But again... I have no opinion on which is "better" to use.

Tommy Target
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 09:42 AM
  #6  
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Default K&N Part #?

Thanks for the advice. K&N part # for air filter?
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 03:40 PM
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E-1970

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp

Last edited by Tom454; Jun 17, 2005 at 03:43 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 05:15 PM
  #8  
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Stay with the vacuum set up, the outboard carbs do not have pumps in them, only the center carb has one.
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