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It shouldn't take too much force, then again depends on how long its been on there. This is a pic of what it looks like with it off. You can see the 9 tabs with the indents around the outside of it that fit into a matching groove on a ring on the underside of the button itself.
Best bet is to try to lever it up a bit to have a peek through the gap to find where one of the 3 screws are as per the pic. Levering from one of those points should have the least resistence.
You will note that the horn cap assembly is constructed of three seperate parts. The cap itself, the emblem, and the retainer. There are three small diecast posts on the cap. They extend down through the plastic emblem and through the metal retainer. The tips of the posts are spun over holding all three parts together.
It is the metal retainer that snaps into the metal upper horn contact. If you just yank on the cap itself, you may break the tips of the posts and you could end up with three seperate parts in your hand.
You want to take a small screwdriver blade and reach under the horn cap so that you are prying between the retainer and the horn contact. That way you are not placing any stress on the three posts holding everything together.
Once you have the cap assembly removed, you may even want to dab a small amount of JBWeld on the tips of the posts to make the whole connection more secure.
Jim
Last edited by Jim Shea; Jun 19, 2012 at 06:59 AM.
Thank you, while I am off to work now, I will try this weekend.
I really appreciate the prompt answer.
Wishing youbwell, and Ill keep you posted as to the progress......
The steering wheel and horn parts drawing came from the 1971 Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual, Steering 9-6. A lot of the shop manuals just show the cap assembly and not the three parts blowup style.
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