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My '70 LS5 lost its spark, and I'm looking for a diagnostic procedure.
I'm getting different results when I check the voltage at the coil (positive terminal). First I got only about 6v, and the wire was getting warm to touch, then later I got the full 12v. But still no spark. So it seems like it could be an intermittent short somewhere.
I did replace the coil which didn't help.
Is there a step-by-step procedure listed somewhere to test the basics (what voltages should be present where, how to test coil, condensor, etc)?
Of course there is. Here's a link that will allow you to test the parts with a DVOM (or a scope, if you have one): http://www.labscopes.com/pg06.htm If you're looking for something different, Google it.
It does sound like you have a current problem, though, since with the key on in the run position and the positive probe on the positive terminal and the comm to ground to measure voltage you should see 6-9v. You should only see 12v in the start position. But even with 12v in run, the car would still start and run fine but you'd burn up your points and condensor faster. It wouldn't affect the coil itself. I'd look at the condensor.
- I also replaced the condensor attached to the coil bracket - what is the function of this, and is it as critical as the other one?
A: That one is for RFI. If you don't mind a buzzy AM signal you can do without it. You can't use an ignition condensor since the mf ratings are different.
- If you get stranded due to a bad condensor (say it shorted out), can you get it running (enough to drive a few miles) by just disconnecting it?
A: Not that I know of with a points ignition. Follow Murphy's Law. Carry a spare point/condensor in your car at all times and the ones in the cap will never fail.
- where is the resistor that lowers the coil voltage to less than battery voltage?